1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Gauges not working

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Old Jul 21, 2025 | 05:31 PM
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Gauges not working

I'm having a issue with none of my gauges are working. All the lights on the instrument cluster work just not the gauges.
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Old Jul 21, 2025 | 06:17 PM
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From: KC
The lights and gauge circuits use different plugs on the back. Might want to check those.
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Old Jul 21, 2025 | 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by KansasCityREPU
The lights and gauge circuits use different plugs on the back. Might want to check those.
thanks is it easy to remove the cluster?
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Old Jul 21, 2025 | 07:13 PM
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From: KC
It's a pain.

1. Disconnect speedo cable from trans to make slack.
2, Remove column surround.
3. Remove black cluster surround.
4. Remove screws that hold cluster from front.
5. Put a rag over the column to protect cluster.
6. This is the hard part. Sometimes, the cluster will till from the top just enough the get a hand on the connectors. If not, you can lay on your back under the dash and reach up to undo the connectors.

I'm sure others might do it differently.
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Old Jul 21, 2025 | 08:02 PM
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Aside for the great advice above about pulling the cluster, what year is your RX-7 and when did the gauges stop working? Did any other electronic components stop working when the gauges quit working? Does the speedometer work?

We can try and guide you on the technical side if we have a little more info.
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Old Jul 21, 2025 | 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by mazdaverx713b
Aside for the great advice above about pulling the cluster, what year is your RX-7 and when did the gauges stop working? Did any other electronic components stop working when the gauges quit working? Does the speedometer work?

We can try and guide you on the technical side if we have a little more info.
It's a 85 s i got the car about 9 months ago and just got it running and they weren't working. Everything else electrical seems to work just fine.
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Old Jul 21, 2025 | 09:34 PM
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From: KC
Check all the fuses first. Many times, you can take the driver's seat out, lay on your back\, and stick your head under the dash and try to make sure the connections on the cluster are seated. Removing it is the last resort. You won't have much wiggle room. It's not easy but doable.
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Old Jul 21, 2025 | 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by KansasCityREPU
Check all the fuses first. Many times, you can take the driver's seat out, lay on your back\, and stick your head under the dash and try to make sure the connections on the cluster are seated. Removing it is the last resort. You won't have much wiggle room. It's not easy but doable.
I did change all the 15a fuses under the dash. What side of the transmission is the speedo cable on?
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Old Jul 22, 2025 | 09:41 AM
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From: KC
The speedo cable is on the drivers side. There is a big collar nut. It's not very thick so be gentle.
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Old Jul 24, 2025 | 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Shanerx7
It's a 85 s i got the car about 9 months ago and just got it running and they weren't working. Everything else electrical seems to work just fine.
Originally Posted by KansasCityREPU
The speedo cable is on the drivers side. There is a big collar nut. It's not very thick so be gentle.
I was looking under the dash and nothing looked disconnected besides this one but i couldn't reach up.

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Old Jul 24, 2025 | 07:57 PM
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From: KC
That connector isn't part of the cluster. You won't be able to really see the connectors unless your head is looking back at the rear of the cluster...if you're lucky. There is one 2 blade and one 3 blade connector one on either side, but they are almost impossible to get from underneath. It's a longshot that their disconnected. Other than checking the fuses, the only way to even test is to tilt the top of the cluster down toward the driver.

Last edited by KansasCityREPU; Jul 24, 2025 at 08:07 PM.
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Old Jul 24, 2025 | 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by KansasCityREPU
That connector isn't part of the cluster. You won't be able to really see the connectors unless your head is looking back at the rear of the cluster...if you're lucky. There is one 2 blade and one 3 blade connector one on either side, but they are almost impossible to get from underneath. It's a longshot that their disconnected. Other than checking the fuses, the only way to even test is to tilt the top of the cluster down toward the driver.
ok do you know which fuses would run that
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Old Jul 25, 2025 | 04:35 AM
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I would start by checking your battery connections and measuring the battery voltage with a multimeter. Remember the battery voltage. This is your source voltage. It should measure 12.5V or a little more.

Start by checking all of the fuses in the fuse panel under the dash. This allows you to work your way backwards in the circuit. Plus this is more difficult than just going straight to the 1.25 Main fusible link. I do this in case one or more are blown. With the key in the on position, use a multimeter to check each pin on each fuse. Ground your negative lead to a good ground that's close by and with the positive lead check each side of the fuse. You should get source voltage on both pins on each fuse. If you get a side that has no source voltage, remove it and inspect the bridge inside to see if its blown. Check each one to ensure that you do not have multiple blown fuses. The 15A Meter Back fuse is suspect.

You will also want to check each of your fusible links. Those are located on the front side of the left strut tower. There will be three. The middle one is your 1.25 and that's labeled the Main fusible link. You can remove it and check to see if its burnt. You can also check it for continuity with your multimeter. This ensures that the wiring inside has not severed.

If you look at the wiring diagram that I'm adding in this post, it supplies the main battery power to the 15A Meter Back fuse. Those are the main suspects when checking to see if you are getting source voltage to your cluster. Here is the wiring diagram. It will be your best friend when diagnosing electrical faults. If you have trouble reading it, please ask and we will assist you.



Here is a picture of your fusible links and their location. The 1.25 is the Main amd its in the middle location:



And finally, if your fuse box lid is missing, here is a picture of the fuse box diagram so that if you find that any fuses are blown, you can reference this and find out what fuse is bad:

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Old Jul 30, 2025 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by mazdaverx713b
I would start by checking your battery connections and measuring the battery voltage with a multimeter. Remember the battery voltage. This is your source voltage. It should measure 12.5V or a little more.

Start by checking all of the fuses in the fuse panel under the dash. This allows you to work your way backwards in the circuit. Plus this is more difficult than just going straight to the 1.25 Main fusible link. I do this in case one or more are blown. With the key in the on position, use a multimeter to check each pin on each fuse. Ground your negative lead to a good ground that's close by and with the positive lead check each side of the fuse. You should get source voltage on both pins on each fuse. If you get a side that has no source voltage, remove it and inspect the bridge inside to see if its blown. Check each one to ensure that you do not have multiple blown fuses. The 15A Meter Back fuse is suspect.

You will also want to check each of your fusible links. Those are located on the front side of the left strut tower. There will be three. The middle one is your 1.25 and that's labeled the Main fusible link. You can remove it and check to see if its burnt. You can also check it for continuity with your multimeter. This ensures that the wiring inside has not severed.

If you look at the wiring diagram that I'm adding in this post, it supplies the main battery power to the 15A Meter Back fuse. Those are the main suspects when checking to see if you are getting source voltage to your cluster. Here is the wiring diagram. It will be your best friend when diagnosing electrical faults. If you have trouble reading it, please ask and we will assist you.



Here is a picture of your fusible links and their location. The 1.25 is the Main amd its in the middle location:



And finally, if your fuse box lid is missing, here is a picture of the fuse box diagram so that if you find that any fuses are blown, you can reference this and find out what fuse is bad:

I did change all the fuses under the dash and have the fuses like these in the engine bay. I have no clue how to read a wiring diagram so any help with that is greatly appreciated.

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Old Jul 31, 2025 | 06:39 AM
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Do the signal lights, high beam, brake, and other indicators work when you put the key to acc?

How about a short video showing the cluster with the car running and a couple of revs, maybe after a couple of minutes of it running?
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Old Jul 31, 2025 | 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 1BADRX7
Do the signal lights, high beam, brake, and other indicators work when you put the key to acc?

How about a short video showing the cluster with the car running and a couple of revs, maybe after a couple of minutes of it running?
I just put 5 gallons of gas in and premix
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Old Jul 31, 2025 | 05:37 PM
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From: KC
That sure seems like the round plugs on the back might be off/not connected. Once I have a few things validated on my car, I'll give you a process to check/bypass the fuel level.
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Old Jul 31, 2025 | 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by KansasCityREPU
That sure seems like the round plugs on the back might be off/not connected. Once I have a few things validated on my car, I'll give you a process to check/bypass the fuel level.
when I pulled the cluster the one on the fuel gauge side wasn't connected but the wiring was really short. It might have fallen off again. I might need to extend the wires on it. You cant see it in the video but after a few more revs the rpm gauge did bounce a tiny bit but no more than the first dash mark. Here's the back of my cluster.

a
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Old Jul 31, 2025 | 07:29 PM
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From: KC
I extended those smaller connectors on the right and left. I used the corresponding male and female connectors and made jumpers. With those at least extended, you should be able to see if the cluster works. You would think the fuel and oil pressure would register something on startup.

If it comes down to it and you need a used cluster, I have 4 or 5 spares we can work out a deal.
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Old Aug 1, 2025 | 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by KansasCityREPU
I extended those smaller connectors on the right and left. I used the corresponding male and female connectors and made jumpers. With those at least extended, you should be able to see if the cluster works. You would think the fuel and oil pressure would register something on startup.

If it comes down to it and you need a used cluster, I have 4 or 5 spares we can work out a deal.
thanks ill keep that in mind. I'm going to try cleaning everything up and extend those wires to see if that helps before i buy a replacement.
edit: i just pulled it again and found the wire i thought i needed to extend was caught on something and it could definitely use a good cleaning


Last edited by Shanerx7; Aug 1, 2025 at 09:43 AM.
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Old Aug 1, 2025 | 05:26 PM
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Your to be commended for tackling the job of pulling the instrument cluster out, difficult in the best of circumstances, but it will pay off in the long run.
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Old Aug 1, 2025 | 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Seniorchief
Your to be commended for tackling the job of pulling the instrument cluster out, difficult in the best of circumstances, but it will pay off in the long run.
after the second time removing it ive git it down now. Ive probably pulled it 3 or 4 times today for cleaning and testing.
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