I went home this morning and checked my teeter-totter. The keeper nut is missing, and the nut with the two posts sticking out of it was almost off of the threaded rod. A new rod and some locktite will fix that this weekend :)

Well dang my bad. So I guess back on topic. Is there an adjustment for this, why is it threaded if not? Mine does not have a retaining nut? does there need to be one, or is it just a safety thing?

I can't seem to pull the piece back up to the teeter totter on my '83. Am I missing a trick somewhere?

Scratch that, had someone else put it on while I held the pedal down... HOLY SHIT IT'S LIKE A WHOLE NEW CAR!

I just found out my car also had the same problem and it has helped out quite a bit but it still seems a little sluggish

Newly acquired '82. Wondered why secondaries never moved on their own. Would they be vacuum actuated as OEM? I think I read that. Some PO hacked this thing up (no rat's nest, A/C all stripped out). Anyway, sure enough, this one too doesn't have that end attached to that linkage, will fiddle. Weird. Would like to eventually check operation of secondaries......lots to worry about before that though.

Are you talking about the linkage arm on the front side of the carb? Between the vac diaphragm and the secondary throttle shaft. If that's not there your vac secondaries won't work. Just do a wire tie mech secondaries mod, it's in the FAQ. Easy and quick fix for now.

I'm talking about the same cable connection everyone else is mentioning in this thread, on the rear of the carb. I'm way too early addressing this, when we get to that point I'll take pictures and ask tons of questions. I know there are linkage bits that I see unattached to anything and operation of the gas pedal (running or not) does not seem to effect the secondary butterflies at all, I've never seen them move besides me manually moving them. I'll be back with questions on this later. I'm just stoked we got the car running so easily and for no extra expense. If we keep this up it will be a great deal on a cool old car. Now to investigate manual choke operation.........

Secondaries will not open when the car is standing still. The vacuum passage is inside the carb. Usually not a problem. Have you installed a new fuel filter?

Weird I dont see any of this on my sterling nikki. Is it all removed?

Okay. I did hook up this dude. Can't tell if it mattered, 0 baseline, new to us car, first real road test was last night. No, have not changed fuel filter, will do. I did put some SeaFoam in the gas though. I love SeaFoam.
I did notice, while looking at lots of carb pictures last night, that NONE of them had this linkage hooked up.

Wow. Mine is off too. I'm going to have to put my car back together enough to take it for a proper drive before I tare it the rest of the way apart

I like to remove the teeter totter junk from my personal carbs. No problems later.

that thing is a lame design, i find them popped off the rocker on quite a few cars.

sounds funny, "your carb is off it's rocker..."

the carbs seem to work ok when everything is how it is supposed to be so i always put everything where it was originally supposed to go. the secondaries are vacuum operated so they only open under a load.

How bout a pic of how you have your setup?

rebuilt my carb recently... i suppose i did not read the instructions or see this picture/notice. but i just connected my teeter totter back to its correct position thanks to this thread!

There seems to be some confusion in this thread about if the rod position matters. It most certainly does. I took a couple pictures to illustrate what is going on.

Here is the correct setup:

http://www.banzai-racing.com/carbure...inkage0002.JPG

Here is when the rod is off the teeter totter mechanism

http://www.banzai-racing.com/carbure...inkage0004.JPG

With it in the wrong position at WOT the rod is stopped be the T-T mechanism, this allows the secondaries to only open very small amount

http://www.banzai-racing.com/carbure...inkage0006.JPG

With the rod connected correctly it allows the secondary throttle plates to open fully, so as long as the rest of the components are functioning correctly this will restore the secondary operation.

http://www.banzai-racing.com/carbure...inkage0007.JPG

So why can't you just remove the rod completely? What exactly is its perpose?

not a lot,, aus and jap carbs dont have it , they only have the return spring
i have about 10 carbs in a bin out the back
,,and i have worked on countless others,, and not yet have i seen a "teeter totter"

Cool I may do away with mine then. If you lived in the states I'd probably take those carbs off your hands.