1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Axle shaft removal

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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 02:06 PM
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Axle shaft removal

Passenger side came right out with a gentle pull but drivers side wont budge..

I tried hitting it with my big rubber hammer but to no avail. Is there a "trick" to getting this side out? and/or even just some experienced advice on how to get it out would be great..

Thanks.
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 02:36 PM
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Just pull.

Gently with a non-rubber hammer if you need to. It will come out.
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 02:39 PM
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slide hammer
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by campaiar
Just pull.

Gently with a non-rubber hammer if you need to. It will come out.
Way past the gentle stage.. With a maul hammer it has not moved even 1/16"..

I wish it was being that easy.
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by wesmcbride
slide hammer
Sadly that's not something I'm in a position to go buy ATM.
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Adonis Blue
Sadly that's not something I'm in a position to go buy ATM.
You can usually rent an axle puller from a local auto parts store.
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 04:26 PM
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Is the bearing race rusted into the carrier? If yes, squirt some PB Blaster in it and let it sit overnight.

There are no other retainers involved... no snap rings or such as you see in some cars.
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by wesmcbride
You can usually rent an axle puller from a local auto parts store.

Oh they make an axle puller! man that would be most handy if only I were in a position to and rent one, which I am not atm. But thanks for pointing that out.
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by DivinDriver
Is the bearing race rusted into the carrier? If yes, squirt some PB Blaster in it and let it sit overnight.

There are no other retainers involved... no snap rings or such as you see in some cars.

Yes the bearing race is rusted in place and hopefully I have some sort of penetrating lube around. Since I am trapped at home till tomorrow..

Thank you for answering the question, I figured there was no c-clips or the like but wanted to be sure before I put much more force to it.

I have the week off work and so had my car towed to a shop in order to get the exhaust welded up/installed and a VI inspection done, I live remotely high up on a mountain and have no wheels atm to go anywhere, until I can get my car back tomorrow. So figured I would finish stripping the other car before it goes to scrap.
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 05:36 PM
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when i pulled mine i had a hell of a time. I beat the 4 bolts out that r press on and it came right out. Idk if u pulled the bolts yet or not just something to try
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 06:26 PM
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There is a trick that uses a length of big chain, maybe 5 or 6 ft. long. You fasten one end of the chain to the axle with the lug stud, and then hold the other end and ****** it like you are cracking a whip and it will come right out.
I know it sounds a little wacky, but it works.... everytime.
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by rwatson5651
There is a trick that uses a length of big chain, maybe 5 or 6 ft. long. You fasten one end of the chain to the axle with the lug stud, and then hold the other end and ****** it like you are cracking a whip and it will come right out.
I know it sounds a little wacky, but it works.... everytime.
I clicked on this thread with the intent to post this exact strategy... I figured, surely no one else does such a thing!

Great minds and such.


Isaac
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 03:13 AM
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You can put the disc back on, thread the lug nuts on slightly, then use the disc as a slide hammer. I watched Sam, Crit, and Billy do this a few years ago at DGRR, then used the trick later myself. Works great.

Would probably work the same way with drums, but I'm not entirely certain...




.
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Kentetsu
You can put the disc back on, thread the lug nuts on slightly, then use the disc as a slide hammer. I watched Sam, Crit, and Billy do this a few years ago at DGRR, then used the trick later myself. Works great.

Would probably work the same way with drums, but I'm not entirely certain...




.
That's pretty slick.
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 12:29 PM
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my 2Cents

I had a parts car that sat outside in a field for about 15 years, never moved. I wanted to pull the rear end and axles to get to the diff, but the axles wouldn't budge. I had limited options where I was, and what worked great for me was bolting a spare donut on, then laying under the car(it was on jack stands) and swinging a LONG 2x4 parallel to the floor the same height as the bottom of the spare rim and WHACKING it once or twice, rotate, do again, until it popped out. Was worth the splinters at the time. The 2x4 was probably 5-6ft long...
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 01:02 PM
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Lots of great ideas! Thanks for the advice guys!
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 01:43 PM
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Let us know which suggestion you try first!
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by sevens4me
I had a parts car that sat outside in a field for about 15 years, never moved. I wanted to pull the rear end and axles to get to the diff, but the axles wouldn't budge. I had limited options where I was, and what worked great for me was bolting a spare donut on, then laying under the car(it was on jack stands) and swinging a LONG 2x4 parallel to the floor the same height as the bottom of the spare rim and WHACKING it once or twice, rotate, do again, until it popped out. Was worth the splinters at the time. The 2x4 was probably 5-6ft long...
I can't say that I recommend banging on any part of a car while you are laying under it. lol

But, that does remind of this:

Couple of weeks ago, working on a '98 328i. It had sat all year (what can I say, I own a 7 so the BMW is my winter car) and when I went to remove the rear wheels, they were securely bonded. We're talking lug nuts out, 10 Lb sledge on a 2x4 and to hell with the wheels I just want these mothers off (you know the scenario). No good.

Final solution involved a couple lengths 4x4 between the two rear wheels (on jack stands) and a scissors jack in between. Damn right it worked! Bent the hell outta both wheels, but it damn well worked!





(Disclaimer: Be advised that Kentetsu is currently reading/diagnosing/posting while Inebriated)
.
.
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Old Apr 26, 2018 | 04:14 PM
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I know this thread is old by now, but I just went through the same fun process of removing my axles. I have an SA and an FB so I took the lug bolts from the waffles and a wheel from my FB and made a DIY slide hammer. I saw it on one these threads and who ever suggested it, it works great! First try on both sides. Just thought I'd add my two cents for the future searches.
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Old Apr 29, 2018 | 06:09 AM
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Honestly a slide hammer is a must for removing the axles. You'll get ones that are super easy to remove and others that are tough and a slide hammer, whether home made or an OTC brand one like I have makes the job so much easier.
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Old May 4, 2018 | 10:59 AM
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I have an extra junk spare tire that I bolt on to the hub and then hit from the back with a big hammer. It pops out with no problem. Not everyone has a spare rim in that bolt pattern laying around, but it does work very well and removes the need to get a ton of pulling force
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Old May 5, 2018 | 12:25 PM
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Just FYI, but Mazdatrix has a special where if you buy the slide hammer with thread on attachment for trans input shaft pilot bearings (*a life-saver!) for only a few dollars more, you can get the dowel pin puller and axle shaft spanner to go with it. This is probably one of those tools that every other rotorhead should have (that way, they can loan it out to every OTHER rotorhead when needed!).
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