video!! of my seafoam

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yu0haTZk0jQ

 

Not true, exhaust gas driven turbochargers do not always force air into the intake tract, the motor operates in vacuum at idle, between shifts, when at part throttle and when the throttle is lifted.

 

Now that you say that, I think you are right......I'm just thinking that even when at idle, or between shifts or lifting throttle, the impeller is still spinning, albeit at slower rpms, so wouldn't the intake charge still be more than atmospheric?

Later,
Bill

 

Nope, the turbo is just an exhaust restriction at idle. The exhaust doesn't generate enough heat or velocity to spin the impeller with enough velocity to generate any positive manifold pressure. Once you open the throttle then you have an opportunity to develop boost, but that may never happen. You can drive a turbo car in vacuum all day long, but once you go WOT, then the turbo starts to kick in. Once it's out of it's lag period, there should be positive manifold pressure, along with a noticable increase of car velocity.

 

i'm picking up 3 cans for 16.50 + tax tonight. One for my 7, one for the minivan, and one for my bro's Merkur Scorpio. Looking foward to the results.

 

I'm going to Seafoam mine this weekend. I was thinking of going the steam route, but I've more experience "Seafoam'ing" an engine. Any advice on which vacuum line would be appreciate, otherwise I'll just poke around the vacuum lines on the lower half of the intake. Is there a singe vacuum line on the GSL-SE that feeds both rotors?

 

Lord Trochoid,

I agree with you totally. You need to teach these other guys never to mess with wisdom :-) Anyway, which vacuum line do you suck it in with?

Mike

 

This thread just inspired me to pick-up a can. I poured half into the tank, then half into the vac line ontop of the intake manifold. First I disconnected the vac line and the car died. I poured in a little and the car DID NOT want to start for a while, but did. Smoked like all hell. Then I barely separated the vac line (to keep the engine running) while pouring in rest of the SeaFoam.

 

Do NOT pour it in without the car running! And you should use at least a whole can (1 pt) in a full tank of gas if you want some real cleaning power.

I bought a case of Seafoam on Shop.com a year ago, it was less than $4/can when bought by the case. You'll want to run a few cans through the tank, and also pour a half can into your engine oil when you're a few hundred miles from an oil change.

 

In this thread:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=vacuum+line

you'll find a diagram of the the SE vacuum hose routing. If you want to clean all of the intake, then you need the Seafoam to entie the dynamic chamber as it even gets carboned up, along with the throttle plates due to the overlap in a rotary.

Just below the BAC is a dark purple hose labeled manifold vacuum, use that one. This will clean the entire intake system, except for the throttle plates. Be sure to rev high enough, (4k rpm+), to open the aux ports. If you really want a good cleaning of the entire fuel system and the injectors down, pour a full can in 1/8th of a tank of fuel.

I do sometimes suck in a 1/2 can of Seafoam until it kill the engine. I then let it sit overnight to soak it's way into heavy carbon deposits. The next day, fire it up and run the other 1/2 of the can through it at as low an rpm as I can, with a couple of short revs to open the aux ports.

 

And this wont have any ill effects on seals at all. I have seen this stuff ruin piston engines over 150,000 on the clock i know it says about that on can. Friend of mine seafoamed the **** out of a honda and about ten minute later dropped a valve seat. Probally cause the buildup was holding it in. i am just curious if directly into the intake track is a good idea on high mileage motors.??? I have done it to a few cars myself and the neighbors think i am burning down the joint lol.

 

you can't let it soak the engine. It's just a maintainance thing to help cean things up a bit. It's not a cure all fix to make your engine new again. BTW seafoam is on sale at Shucks right now I bought a can today...

 

Just ask kentetsu or read some of his posts about it.
I like to think of the stuff as an inhaler for an asthmatic. It does wonders for your high mileage engine, but only for a short time.

 

In my opinion, the older the rotary the more often you should Seafoam it. My theory is that, since older motors will have lower compression, they'll have less efficient combustion and therefore more carbon buildup.

My last motor had well over 200k on it, and I could get great results running Seafoam through on a monthly basis. However, and fresher motor probably will not see noticable results using it this often.

I always run it through the gas tank, using one can to about 1/8 - 1/4 tank of gas.

By the way, Seafoam also works great for deflooding a rotary. Just dump a couple caps full down the carb then crank her over. Works every time. Hope this helps...

 

I always premix my gas with MMO or 2-cycle, so over time the internals of the rotary get impregnated with lubricant. Won't seafoam dissolve that good stuff and make the internals more vulnerable?

 

I meant that you can't poor it in and let it sit in a non running engine. I'd think it might eat your soft seals. That's why you do it running.

 

My car sat for 10 years before I got it, did the whole freshen up then once it started, ran rough and had low power, Seafoamed it, which cleaned out the crud and carbon, ran awesome and gained about 3 mpg. I assume it broke free an apex seal from the old carbon build up, the difference was incredible.

 

I'm with Bliffle. Is this seafoam breaking down the 2-cycle that I mix in my gas? I have no doubt that it cleans out the carbon, but what is it doing to my housings and seals? I'd hate to be negating the effects of my premix. I think I might just stay with some MMO in the tank for now...

 

I have no reason to try Seafoam, tho I do have a bottle I bought some time ago.

My 83 GS has 130k and runs like new. I'm the only one who's driven it and the engine is as smooth and powerful as when I bought it. I started using premix at around 70k.

The 85GSL had 49k when I bought it, it was neglected but not mistreated. It ran a little rough and missed when I accelerated at highway speed, so I had to pump it. Eventually I replaced the fuelpump and that went away. It runs almost as smooth as the 83 and now has 83k.

The 85SE was terrible neglected when I adopted it: paint was all dust, interior was bleached white and falling apart, engine ran rough and radiator was full of black stuff. 140k. It felt powerful but very rough. It would also flood. I changed all fluids, as usual, started using MMO in tank, replaced plugwires and plugs. Now it has 170k and runs as smooth as the 83. No more flooding. never used Seafoam, just MMO and/or 2-cycle. No more flooding.

I still have that unused bottle of Seafoam. Anyone want it?

I'm even using MMO in my boinger (91 Alfa 164L sedan with 207k). Runs smoother every week.

 

No.
As far as I know, seafoam is a non-polar molecule like oil.
Basic chemistry says "likes attract", meaning non-polar will mix with non-polar but non-polar will NOT mix with polar. ie water mixes with alcohol's (polar and polar), but water doesn't mix with oil (polar and non-polar).

So seafoam will mix with 2-cycle oil, yes. Does it break it down, I don't think so.
Does alcohol break down water? (no)

The logic of saying seafoam breaks down 2-cycle oil should also then apply to your gas breaking down the oil as well.

Finally, No, it is my opinion seafoam doesn't negate the effects of premixing.

Disclaimer: This is just what I learned from my first year organic chem class, feel free to clarify or correct where I am wrong, just be nice 'bout it

 

Doesn't it say right on the bottle something like "100% petroleum products"? I don't have a can right in front of me, but I seem to remember something like that.

 

It also states, can be used with ANY 2 or 4 stroke engine, thus implying that it doesnt break the oil in the 2-stroke fuel down.

As well it usually takes awhile to break stuff down so if you put it in the tank then drive it its not like it would instantly seperate your oil and gas and ruin your engine........

 

WOW talk about a thread from the past. I was reading through it and was going to post something when I came upon some of my own posts. THen I looked at the date.

Anyhow, I havn't used any in my FB, but it is probly due. I wonder if it will cure my high idle... (1500rpm ), or if I have to pull the carb and do some adjusting....

Later,
Bill

 

Seafoam. Takes carbon out. Apex seals? Direct injection of seafoam into carb. I would put it in the tank.

 

So, the can says you can either add it to the motor oil, to the gas tank or to pour 1/3 can slowly into the carb while it is running. I think I would prefer the carb route as I don't want to stir up the crap at the bottom of my fuel tank (which has been sitting for about 2 years before I bought it and I have only put on about 5 miles in the last 6 months). I have read lots about the vaccuum hose route, but does anybody have any feedback on pouring it directly into the carb?

Thanks!