Alternator Relocation Brackets
 

Just wanted to gauge interest in fabricated Alternator Relocation Brackets. These mild steel brackets would relocate the alternator to the lower, driver-side of the engine, where the A/C and PS pumps are typically mounted. Why? It would permit running a Meziere electric water pump adaptor; moves weight lower (lower CG); cleans up the top of the engine (alt sticks up like a sore thumb if you have an IDA intake, or similar). It should also reduce water pump slipping if the Air Pump is eliminated. It should work on everything from a Rotary Truck to an FC TII (FDs have a different front cover upper stud location), except perhaps the 83-85 12A with stock air/water oil cooler (hard line may interfere).

I've made several rough prototypes already, checking for fitment. I have a final prototype getting laser cut right now. When that gets back, I will have the bends done and weld on the mounting and adjustment components (lathe items). No idea of cost yet, but if there is enough demand it will help keep the unit cost reasonable. Still, it requires laser cutting, bending, turning and welding, so this is not a simple item. Expect anything from $50-85 each...hopefully, at the lower end of the range. I'm talking complete, bolt-on, powdercoated, including fasteners and a new V-belt.

When the final prototype is finished, I will take some pictures and post them. Right now, share your thoughts but please stay positive (I don't need to hear about how you could rip-off the design at half the cost or that it needs to be made of Titanium or that it's worthless to you because you have AC and/or Power Steering). I'm just proposing to make some slick little Alt Relocation Brackets and sell them in quantity to reduce the unit cost. Anyone interested?

BTW, if anyone wants to do a Meziere electric water pump, I can hook you up.

--
Blake Qualley
Pineapple Racing

Yes I'm interested, get them done fast.

-Marques

good idea...u've thought this over well :bigthumb: pm me when u have it done and ready to ship out

edit: how much would that electric waterpump setup cost, approximately that is.

Intriguing. Pics?

Also pics of electric water pump? Does the electric water pump bolt up where the stocker did?

I really want one. Been looking for a while.


Would these be a one shot deal, or will you stock them for sale?

i want one too! The thought of opening the hood and people seeing only one belt running to the altenator is just cool. Can you imagine the looks on there faces?

I have always liked the look of this one.

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...d=117447&stc=1

im interested in it.

but i have a few questions, not trying to bag on you or anything but just curious

does it require a different belt than factory?if so have you figured out the stock number on it? i get enough confused looks from the guy behind the parts counter as it is, imagine when i start asking for an oddball belt.

is it possible to keep the factory ac?this used to not be that important to me but lately it has.

ooohh that looks bitchin. yeah what about serpentine set-ups?

a little off topic but will later serpentine pullies and belts fit on a first gen?

I too am interested and will buy one when they become available. Blake you have a PM.

Count me in. That is too cool.

Okay, but the picture someone else posted is not that similar to what ours will be. I will post some pictures next week, after the final prototype is done. Ours uses a stock alternator with 3/8th V-belt and is mounted very low. It can't go lower because of the front cover oil line and it can't go higher because of the distributor/CAS (unlike that FD mount in the picture). It most certainly does require a different (longer) belt, but it is a standard Gates item. We will sell replacement belts, too. This item will be kept in stock in the future, if there is enough demand, but we have to justify making a batch up front to keep the cost reasonable. If at least ten people are prepared to order, I will get 25 or so made up.

If people are really interested in ordering the Meziere electric water pump kits, I can probably put something together. The more the merrier, as it will greatly affect pricing. They don't really sell a kit, but I can spec out all the parts and get some pricing info for you. Expect it to be in the $500 range, including the rotary WP adaptor. Another option is the Davies Craig EWP setup, out of Australia. It is less expensive (~$250) and proven very reliable in racing, plus you can opt for a slick controller (~$150), which varies flow based on temperature. The only "gotcha" is the lack of rotary adaptor. In that case, we could either order the adaptors through Meziere (~$90) or, as I am inclined to do, make our own. We have an FC cast aluminum oil pan mold getting finished off, so after that, I can have them do a casting for the WP adaptors.

I have no interest in the Water pump. But I will Gurantee on my Honor that I will take at least one of the Alt kits, As long as they are under $85. Most likey 2 if they are $50.

I want one, but I need to install a turbo first, to make sure it won't interfere with the charge pipes...

Dan

blake u know us 1st gen guys, wer'e definately gonna go with the cheaper option :p:

Blake, between ebay and the forum I would go with 50 and keep your cost as low as possible. I was going to do this mod but if you are offering one I will take one. Thanks for doing this sort of thing, there's not enough mods out on the market for the FB's.

The FD setup is sweet, if you can make a add on with the serpentine style setup that would be way cool.

[Typing quietly in the Media Center of Champ Car World Series at Portland International Raceway :) ] With this sort of part 25 is enough to get the ball rolling. More would not lower the unit cost enough to justify tying up the capital. If the demand is there, I can knock out 25, 50, 100 more, as necessary. Until then, I'd rather spend the capital developing new products (e.g. water pump adapter).
--
Blake Qualley
Pineapple Racing

BUMP

What's the news Blake are you going to make these or not? Hell if you put it up on your ebay store I guarantee I'll get one.

As a matter of fact, I've been working on the final prototype most of the afternoon. Got the laser-cut material back Friday, dropped it off for bending Monday, got it back yesterday, then turned the top and bottom pieces on the lathe and welded them on today. I also test-fitted the bracket on my rotary truck, a turbo 12A and a 2nd gen NA. Clearance is good, but I might make one or two minor changes before going into production. It's amazing how many little details there are to account for between the vehicles. The paint on the prototype is drying as I type. In a couple hours, I'll take some pictures and post them here.

The next big decision is what to use for the tensioner. I can have a simple, flat one lasered, which would look like the stock one. That's pretty cheap and easy. However, the other option is to make a turnbuckle assembly with 5/16 left- and right-hand threaded rod ends. I already bought some hex rod and 20 rod ends (10 left, 10 right), but need to get a left-hand 5/16th tap. I would expect the rod end turnbuckle assembly to add $15 or so to the final price. Worth it?

yep, worth every penny.

I am ok with flat bar if there is room to get a twofister in there to tension it with.

So no spring loaded tensioner?

???

Here are a couple quick shots of the bracket. When I get a chance, I will take some more with it mounted on a vehicle. The tensioner in the picture is the flat one, but we may end up going with the rod end turnbuckle one...it would look much better and makes adjustment easier.

http://pineappleracing.com/images/misc/altbracket1a.jpg
http://pineappleracing.com/images/misc/altbracket2a.jpg

--
Blake Qualley

Blake,

I am down for atleast one too

Hopefully it will fit the 3....

Please PM me as soon as these are available.

I think for prototyping purposes.. I will opt to purchase both the flat-bar and the turn-buckle style....

I hope you are using a small sperical bushing sorta set-up.

Again, please PM me so I can get some funds your way.,

BTW, prototypes, and engineering model versions are fine with me.

Nevermind. I was an ass and didn't read the entire thread... V-Belt, not Serp... Gotcha.

Can you use the stock v-belts, or do you need a different model?
This is really cool, man. I would really like one if the price is right. How much are you shooting for? $50-60 sounds pretty reasonable to me.

I'm down for one.

Plus I'd personally rather have the bar adjuster type. Not at all worth the extra cost. Function over form...

I'll take one, pm me.

Wow. Looks great.


Will we have to cut off the Studs on the motor to use this?

Yes, Rod Ends, aka Heim Joints or Rose Joints.
http://pineappleracing.com/images/misc/rodend.jpg

You take two rod ends, one threaded right hand (convensionally) and the other threaded left hand (back assward), then use a section of hex rod between them, threaded to match the rod ends at either side. So, you can adjust the length by turning the hex rod with a wrench...one way extends, the other retracts. Jam nuts are used to hold the ajustment.

Here is a picture of a 'supersized' version I made for the lower trailing links of the suspension on my old peripheral port 13B car.

http://rx-sevenandahalf.com/images/car-big/P1240002.jpg

The difference is that those rod ends cost over $30 each and the baby-sized ones for the tensioner would be a fraction of that. Actually, the retail value of the rod ends would be higher than the cost of the tensioner assembly, but I get WD (Warehouse Distributor) pricing so I can keep the cost reasonable.

I want to do the turnbuckle tensioner for my own vehicle because I like the precision of adjustment, as opposed to the pry and pray style flat bars. It also looks much cooler! :)

--
Blake Qualley
Pineapple Racing

Nice bracket. I want one and I prefer no tensioner. price please (I didnt see it).

No, but you will have to remove them as the kit will come with some button-head bolts that use those threaded holes. Originally, I was going to just use nuts to fasten the bracket to the studs, but they stick out way too far and would force me to mount the alternator even farther out.

No tensioner at all...not even the flat one?

Price will be between $50 and $85, including hardware and the belt. Variables in the cost include the finish (powder coating, cad plating, etc), type of tensioner, packaging, etc. I still have to make a welding jig, so that every one is exactly the same. One-offs are easy, but production is a PITA!

I have never had a reason to take them out. Do they remove easy?

Stud Puller?
Two nuts pulled against each other?
Pipe wrench?

Personally, I use a stud puller kit, but if you don't want to spend the money, you can either just wrench them out with vicegrips (if you don't mind tossing the studs in the trash...it's not like they're expensive to replace, anyway) or by using the double-nut trick (jaming two nuts together and using a wrench to turn the stud out). It may help to spray some PB Blaster or other penetrating lubricant in there. With a proper stud puller, the studs come out quite easily.

Im fine with krylon paint job. so count me in for 1 bracket.

thanks

maybe i've missed it, but is this mod just for looks?? i know you mention about less water pump slippage, but i have had no problems whatsoever when i removed my air pump. it's been like this for the past 2 years and temps. are the way i would like them to be.

so is this form over function??

picture that bracket on this one.

Any weight you move lower is benefitial to handling (lower CG) and it also allows you to use an electric water pump, so those are both good, functional reasons to relocate the alternator. And, for any of us running IDA or Holley manifolds, the damn altenator sticks up like a sore thumb...admittedly, that's an appearance issue, but still a valid reason to relocate the alternator. There is, also, more contact between the belt and water pump, but there are many other ways to eliminate belt slippage, so put that down as a side-benefit.

yeah i actually saw it

question is: is it by a significant amount? i'm not detesting this mod in any way, i'm just really curious if it's worth spending my money on it in the future.

I am running a DCOE and the filter rubs on the Alt Connections.

DoLuck,
There's your answer. here's mine: easier to run the turbo plumbing with the alternator out of the way.

Honestly, it may not be worth it if you are measuring dollars invested vs. improvements in lap time, if that's your criteria. But, then, few things would meet that standard. To me, it's a means to mount an electric water pump adaptor, plus it looks really cool. It certainly can't hurt to move it, regardless. You will have to judge the value for yourself.

Okay, I took some pictures on the 12A Turbo in the shop. Hopefully, this will give you a better idea of how it will look.

http://pineappleracing.com/images/misc/altbracket3a.jpg
http://pineappleracing.com/images/misc/altbracket4a.jpg

where is that website now? it doesnt exsist anymore. anyone know the real one?

can you take the old bracket off.. or is it still going to be there?

can you use your dual pulley you have now or go back to the single pulley. I like the CAD (gold) finish, easy to keep clean and less corrosion. Nice job Blake!