84 GSL SE Air pump removal/ 6 port wire open?
 

First off I am wanting to remove my air pump from my 84 SE, is it pretty straight forward or are there any complications to it?

Secondly Im getting ready to buy a header and build and exhaust system. I am wondering would it be better to build a pick up tube for my 6 port actuator or just to wire them open all the time like i have seen talked about?

Any answers, threads, or links to these questions would be appreciated.

Wiring them open loses low end power. Just get the racingbeat header with the feedback tube. I have one but shipping would be a bitch

What about the pump?

You should remove the Air Control Valve and install an block off plate when you remove the air pump and add a header. If you remove the air pump while the main catalytic converter is still installed the lack of cooling air flow to the converter can cause it to overheat, clog and die.

There's an easy way to actuate the auxillary ports with a header installed in this thread.
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/6-port-actuator-removal-question-955409/

This plate?

http://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1975-1...nts/16325.html

That's the one.

Previous owner of my 84 SE removed the air pump. I installed a RB header, presilencer with the rest being new factory parts.

I drove it for several months with the split air pipe off the presilencer plugged, so I had no aux port operation, constant closed

Finally broke down and got a new split-air pipe from Mazdatrix, hooked the aux back up and have been loving it ever since.

I did have to reshape the split-air pipe, to clear the header, but it was easy enough. I would highly recommend to restore the functionality of these instead of wiring open or leaving closed.

I would suggest buying the RE-Speed dual alternator pulley if you remove the airpump. The reason is that you will have very little belt contact on the water pump/fan pulley, and will often screech above 4,000rpm (at least in my experience) when the fan is activated. It's only $16 + shipping.

Also, I attempted the header fitting posted earlier in this thread (mine looked almost identical) and it didn't work, so try at your own risk.

What do I need to do with the 2 vacuum lines that run into the lower intake manifold after I block off the ACV? Plug them or what?

+1 on the dual alternator belt pulley. You will get the annoying belt slippage squeal without a second belt on the waterpump.

The larger air lines off the air pump can all be plugged. The little line going to the aux ports obviously needs to be hooked up.

There are two other alternatives which are: Yoohoo belt(PineappleRacing) or just "gut" your air pump and retain it's function as an "idler" pulley. Any of the three should work. I went with the RB complete header system and had terrible slippage >4k. I thought I'd try the yoohoo belt, and it's been great the last four or five years since. But it was a BEEYATCH to get on. I initiallly bought two figuring I might ruin one trying to get it on, and I did. I finally figured out a fairly easy way to get it on which was to park my car on a slight grade, maybe ~15-20 degrees or so. Then I put it in reverse with the E-brake off, and I could easily turn the E-pulley by hand when needed and the car would "walk" backwards as I guided the belt on. Just watch your fingers! Also, before the exhaust upgrade, my aux ports were seized. After the exhaust install they were still seized for a while until I figured it out...After tearing mani's apart, and cleaning/installing the pineapple sleeves in the aux ports. It made a HUGE difference in the low end of the car.(,84 SE 13B) and it's lowend felt like a BEAST compared to the previous 4 12A FB's I had.

reviving this from the dead because i am getting curious aboud the aux ports. The auxiliary ports work with back pressure from the exhaust correct? I have two gsl-se's one with the ports working and the other one with them removed. i can feel the difference in the low end but if i turbo that motor, would it be best to leave them out?