Listen to what Sterling says, he knows his shit. But always offer less than what is being asked, you may walk away with a nice car and a few extra bucks in your pocket. If not then you give the asking price if you think its fair and you still have a nice car for a good price. Go to www.sterlingmetalworks.com . Lots of carb info there, and more should be added later. Set aside a few bucks and consider upgrading your Nikki later, after you get the rest of the car tip top. Looks like the rear bumper got tweaked a bit so you may have some things more important to deal with than power gains at this point.

Good luck
Chris

UAE huh? Which emirate are you from?

Emirate !
 

I am from the Capital "Abu Dhabi Island" in the Emirate of Abu Dhabi. Why do you ask !?

Guys i need a new daily use clutch for the car because i am going to collect the car in the spring break and it's clutch is sliping !

it was answered on the first page about your clutch question

How bad is the clutch exactly? Because all you've said is that its slipping.

Maybe you're lucky and the clutch is a little glazed, in which case you can rough up the surface and run it some; least that is what one of my ATEC buddies told me he did for his clutch... Oh btw if you do decide to do this method, your clutch life will be shorter, but its only a temporary fix anyways.

As for your carb, check the air bleed screw, sometimes people mess with it and it throws idle way off... hence why I suggested earlier to keep a large philips screwdriver. If it is a fuel issue then you'll have to locate the fuel mixture screw and first check if it has been adjusted post factory.

If both things look good and you're still having trouble; I would recommend throwing some Seafoam down the carb, I've had this clean out what ever was gunking up my carb on one or two occasions.

If you're still having issues after all that, then the carb may have to be rebuilt... which I hear is a PTA.

Good Luck, I have an 82 myself; running strong with almost 250k + on her! Hasn't been rebuilt yet!

I heard that carb rebuilds were a PTA also...I just rebuilt a 79 Nikki with no problems...not too bad...just tedious, meaning...keep up with all parts and clean everything!!! Kit only cost me $20 @ Autozone....
There is a writeup in the archives on how to adjust the carb....I'd check there before you do the rebuild...you never know, it may just fix your problem...(along with the Seafoam...great stuff there!) Good Luck!

Can't help you with the clutch...mine was slipping and come to find out the slave cylinder was leaking. I rebuilt that for around $7...;)

lOl, i'll see what i can do

I took the clutch out, as soon as i took it apart what ever was in was leaked out like sand !!!, so i replaced it with a new clutch, and decided to change the engine with an 85 12A engine that i bought from a kid that said it "only" had a bad water pump seal !!!!!

I bought a new water pump put it on with new seals, swaped the flywheel from the 81 12A to the 85, because it was lighter.

I started it up, and it ran rough at first for a few minutes, after 10 mins I drove it 100 around in a circle parked in the garage, and noticed the was a load of oil on the GROUND !!!!

I turned the car off and cleaned the top left drivers side of the engine, then started it back up and kept looking at the engine. I noticed that there was OIL seeping through one of the housing (where it said mazda or 12a).

I realy dislike people who are untruthful. !!!! I don't know why he did'nt tell me that it was leaking oil, so that i could fix the problem before puting the engine in my car like i did with the water pump !!!!!!!

I have no idea what to do now with the engine, i will post a video of the leaking oil asap. I have a Turbo kit to bolt on but this really hurt my wallet !!! should i rip the engine apart ? or can it be fixed another way !

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...cdccf34271.jpg
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...d808b30ecb.jpg

Leaking oil where it says "12A"? That doesn't make sense captain. Last I checked oil didn't run through there unless it's the filler tube.

Mine does. It's the beginning of the "leak O' death", as I understand it.

dowel pin oil leak im thinking. but that shouldn't leak "a load of oil". perhaps theres another oil leak that you missed. the only way to fix a dowel pin leak is a rebuild. time to take out your engine again and prep it for boost!

also you can try lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer which is just pure petroleum and very thick which could fill in the cracks of your engines worn/dry oil seals and gaskets to slow down or stop your leak

I'd be a little more careful dangling the FMOC from the hoses, too, friend. The welds at the hose fittings are fragile and prone to cracking.

I will post a video of it ! -_-"

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...deoid=56308206

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...deoid=56308302

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...deoid=56308351

If anyone can figure out where this oil is coming from it would be great.

That looks to be a failed (or missing) o-ring between the front plate and the front rotor housing (also known as the 'dowel pin leak' or 'leak of death')... or may be indicative of a loose, stretched, or broken tension bolt, or stripped threads on one or more. The oil appears to be seeping under pressure from the junction between the plate and the housing.

There's a pressurized oil passage between the plate and housing right there, runs front to back thru the whole keg. It's normally sealed with an o-ring between each plate and housing. The dowel pins that align the housings use the same hole - - oil goes through the hollow dowel pins.

No way to replace it except a teardown/rebuild, I'm sad to say. An oil-sealing additive might help it, but they're not normally recommended for rotaries, and it would be a band-aid anyway.

It's possible that one or more of the tension bolts that run from the rear of the engine through to the front plate has become loose, or has broken or stretched, and is allowing the oil to leak.

Either way, it's a serious problem. Removal and teardown is the only way to diagnose further or to fix. Ignoring it will invite a serious failure, should the ring fail completely or the bolt sheer off and move back to contact the flywheel.

Good news is that you might just be lucky enough to only need to replace the soft seals, if nothing has warped out of tolerance.

Thanks for the fast reply :)

I guess (NITRO789) is a cheat and can't be trusted at all.

So that being said, what do i need to rebuild an 1984 12A engine, do i need the hwole kit including Apex seals ? where is the best place to get the rebuild kit from ?

Thanks for your help peeps

any idea's !

Alright, I cracked the engine open, so far so good :) the seals all look real good. What is the Best gasket set i can get for the 12A ?

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...6db9d21912.jpg

http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...92dab9a6fb.jpg

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...1906d83f8d.jpg

Alright 12A lovers out there, i am finally going to put my engine back togather.
What seal kit should i use that will handle a blowthrough turbo kit ? i am going to do finish it this weak with your help !!!!!!

I have tried looking through the archives however my laptop keeps laging when i click on a thread.

As for the turbo header, what gasket should i use ? can i use double stock exhaust gaskets ? keep in mind that as soon as the engine is togather, i'm a driving from Portland Oregon to Irvine cali, side by side with my 240Z (driven by my mechanic). I need to know what gasket set will be best, and if it's a good idea to turbo it before the road trip or after.

http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._6701940_n.jpg

Thanks for your advise.

Cant offer advice on the gaskets and seals,

However, from my turbo experience (albeit limited) you would definitely want to turbo it after the road trip. But so many other things to consider such as break in period, tuning time etc. Everything will be greater with a turbo, especially time needed to fine tune. Just my thoughts.

I have an offer on two runing 12A engines (uknown if they smoke) for 150 OR, i am going to pull my 81 engine apart after tommorow, should i purchase a 12a rebuild video, or can i just go with good memory and common sence, and some mechanic skills ? not to mention i am buying the atkins gasket kit.

What to do ? feedback would be appreciated.

all right, i have the atkins rebuild kit with me and he engine is apart. What can i do to the engine while it's apart to add horse power, things i can do or change that wont cost too much !?

Some photo's of the Original 1981- 12A engine that come with it after the tear down.

http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._2312581_n.jpg

1981- 12A
http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._1337641_n.jpg

1985-12A
http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._6445496_n.jpg

Makeshift engine stand.
http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._7324676_n.jpg

http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._4391189_n.jpg

Possible reason for white smoke !!!
http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos...8_925831_n.jpg

It must of been hot in there !!!
http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._4799361_n.jpg

Are those Rotors Stock ???
http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos...0_870351_n.jpg

1985-12A Rotor
http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._1750736_n.jpg