1982 RX7 12A(Die's at low rev's)
 

Dear RX7 owners,

I test drove my friends 1982 RX7 that has a sticky clutch and has not been driven in a few months when it started to die on me at the traffic light when the rev's were low !!!! I want to buy it and it has over 200,000 miles on it but it's very clean with nice rims and comes with a nice sound system and extra parts.

Can any one tell my why it does that and what clutch should i get for it and how much.

The cap and rotor were changed and spark plugs as well.

Peace

Sounds like a carb issue. With over 200k miles on,presumably, the original 12A, you'd better save back another $1500 if you do buy it for a full motor rebuild

For the clutch go through mazdatrix or racingbeat and get your self a street clutch...Either with the spring or with out the spring...and either round or 4 puck...I personally drive with the 4 puck with no spring...Very reactive but he/she get used to it...

And for the the car that dies at low rev's it might be the carb getting too much fuel or not enough fuel...Also get ready for a rebuild...200,000 miles is alot...How much are you buying the car for

Daily Driver
 

I am buying it for $900 Guys i wana use it as a daily driver !!!!!

I might be going to the U.A.E this summer and if the engine will cost around 1500 i might as well get a TT engine !!!! is it easy to put in ? although I really like the Carb engine it sounds really nice, it sounds like a rocket when i drive it !!!! is that normal ?

The 13B-REW(twin turbo) motor will cost you 3 times what you'll pay for the entire car at a minimun. That's not including all the custom fabrication to mount it, fuel system, ignition, engine management, and complete drivetrain. Basically when you're done you would have bought a very nice FD(3rd Gen) by that point

Yeah it sounds like a Carb issue to me...

I haven't adjusted my carb yet so I just keep a Philips or Flat head screwdriver with me to adjust it when it seems too lean or too rich...

So i should stick to the 12A motor !!!! lol

I am no mechanic, so what would i need for a rebuild !? where can i get the parts and how much should it cost ?

Is'nt it a reasonable price ?

Price will depend on a couple things. Are you going to rebuild it yourself or have someone else rebuild it? Do you want a basic rebuild or do you want to have some porting done, etc. Do some research and all your questions should be answered

I see. I have done research, and a friend of who used to drag race RX7's in washington might rebuild it for me if it's serius. Is $900 a good price ? and is that jet like sound when floored normal for 1st gen RX7's ?
-_-"

well are you running the stock carb setup?

Yes it is stock.

Not sure exactly what noise you are describing but if you posted a video we might understand a little better. You'd need to post very detailed pictures in order for us to determine how much for you to pay

-_-" i can't find the pics i guess i will have to wait until march to get more pics of the car since it's in Washington and i am in Oregon

Its all about how much you think is fair, you are the one paying it, not us.

Someone is always gonna say they could have got it cheaper, or whatever, but I learned along time ago, if you like the price and feel that is was fair then thats all that matters.

Working on these cars is fairly simple, you have a full forum of great guys that are willing to help you, so why not, go ahead and buy it you know you want too, otherwise you wouldnt be on here.

-Matt

TrueTrue (Mattg)
The Car Looks pretty new from inside has a 12 dvd changer and has lots of spare parts including a odometer with low miles and a set of 5 rare rims with the GT stearing wheel, it's creamy white cloror but needs a good polish or new paint and the rims match the body. I am looking for pics of it !!! i have to go through 20000 pics !!!!!!!

Ohhh its white?

I love a white FB!

Formula white is a sexy color indeed

EDIT: Looks like it passes the 30ft test LOL. Nice looking wheels

I like this white because it's really simple and doesn't shine to much. So what's the verdict $900 or less!?

I have never worked on an engine in my life, do you think i should take it apart and would it be simple or should i just get a tune up kit and let the pro's do it for me and then drive it till it blows and replace the engine ?

I'm going to go and cudle with my lil baby, Asta La'wankel Homie's

Good Night and don't let those Honda's Bight !!!!

LoL

(Formula white is a sexy color indeed

EDIT: Looks like it passes the 30ft test LOL. Nice looking wheels)

Ty "FireBirdSlayer"

All right now i am awake,when i go to collect the car is there any one here that i can call that can help me ajust the carb by phone !?

No WAY do I give out my phone #!!!
BUT, we will definitely help you on the forum. ;)

-BTW, Welcome to the dark side.

LOL/ that's good enough

Listen to what Sterling says, he knows his shit. But always offer less than what is being asked, you may walk away with a nice car and a few extra bucks in your pocket. If not then you give the asking price if you think its fair and you still have a nice car for a good price. Go to www.sterlingmetalworks.com . Lots of carb info there, and more should be added later. Set aside a few bucks and consider upgrading your Nikki later, after you get the rest of the car tip top. Looks like the rear bumper got tweaked a bit so you may have some things more important to deal with than power gains at this point.

Good luck
Chris

UAE huh? Which emirate are you from?

Emirate !
 

I am from the Capital "Abu Dhabi Island" in the Emirate of Abu Dhabi. Why do you ask !?

Guys i need a new daily use clutch for the car because i am going to collect the car in the spring break and it's clutch is sliping !

it was answered on the first page about your clutch question

How bad is the clutch exactly? Because all you've said is that its slipping.

Maybe you're lucky and the clutch is a little glazed, in which case you can rough up the surface and run it some; least that is what one of my ATEC buddies told me he did for his clutch... Oh btw if you do decide to do this method, your clutch life will be shorter, but its only a temporary fix anyways.

As for your carb, check the air bleed screw, sometimes people mess with it and it throws idle way off... hence why I suggested earlier to keep a large philips screwdriver. If it is a fuel issue then you'll have to locate the fuel mixture screw and first check if it has been adjusted post factory.

If both things look good and you're still having trouble; I would recommend throwing some Seafoam down the carb, I've had this clean out what ever was gunking up my carb on one or two occasions.

If you're still having issues after all that, then the carb may have to be rebuilt... which I hear is a PTA.

Good Luck, I have an 82 myself; running strong with almost 250k + on her! Hasn't been rebuilt yet!

I heard that carb rebuilds were a PTA also...I just rebuilt a 79 Nikki with no problems...not too bad...just tedious, meaning...keep up with all parts and clean everything!!! Kit only cost me $20 @ Autozone....
There is a writeup in the archives on how to adjust the carb....I'd check there before you do the rebuild...you never know, it may just fix your problem...(along with the Seafoam...great stuff there!) Good Luck!

Can't help you with the clutch...mine was slipping and come to find out the slave cylinder was leaking. I rebuilt that for around $7...;)

lOl, i'll see what i can do

I took the clutch out, as soon as i took it apart what ever was in was leaked out like sand !!!, so i replaced it with a new clutch, and decided to change the engine with an 85 12A engine that i bought from a kid that said it "only" had a bad water pump seal !!!!!

I bought a new water pump put it on with new seals, swaped the flywheel from the 81 12A to the 85, because it was lighter.

I started it up, and it ran rough at first for a few minutes, after 10 mins I drove it 100 around in a circle parked in the garage, and noticed the was a load of oil on the GROUND !!!!

I turned the car off and cleaned the top left drivers side of the engine, then started it back up and kept looking at the engine. I noticed that there was OIL seeping through one of the housing (where it said mazda or 12a).

I realy dislike people who are untruthful. !!!! I don't know why he did'nt tell me that it was leaking oil, so that i could fix the problem before puting the engine in my car like i did with the water pump !!!!!!!

I have no idea what to do now with the engine, i will post a video of the leaking oil asap. I have a Turbo kit to bolt on but this really hurt my wallet !!! should i rip the engine apart ? or can it be fixed another way !

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...cdccf34271.jpg
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...d808b30ecb.jpg

Leaking oil where it says "12A"? That doesn't make sense captain. Last I checked oil didn't run through there unless it's the filler tube.

Mine does. It's the beginning of the "leak O' death", as I understand it.

dowel pin oil leak im thinking. but that shouldn't leak "a load of oil". perhaps theres another oil leak that you missed. the only way to fix a dowel pin leak is a rebuild. time to take out your engine again and prep it for boost!

also you can try lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer which is just pure petroleum and very thick which could fill in the cracks of your engines worn/dry oil seals and gaskets to slow down or stop your leak

I'd be a little more careful dangling the FMOC from the hoses, too, friend. The welds at the hose fittings are fragile and prone to cracking.

I will post a video of it ! -_-"

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...deoid=56308206

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...deoid=56308302

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...deoid=56308351

If anyone can figure out where this oil is coming from it would be great.

That looks to be a failed (or missing) o-ring between the front plate and the front rotor housing (also known as the 'dowel pin leak' or 'leak of death')... or may be indicative of a loose, stretched, or broken tension bolt, or stripped threads on one or more. The oil appears to be seeping under pressure from the junction between the plate and the housing.

There's a pressurized oil passage between the plate and housing right there, runs front to back thru the whole keg. It's normally sealed with an o-ring between each plate and housing. The dowel pins that align the housings use the same hole - - oil goes through the hollow dowel pins.

No way to replace it except a teardown/rebuild, I'm sad to say. An oil-sealing additive might help it, but they're not normally recommended for rotaries, and it would be a band-aid anyway.

It's possible that one or more of the tension bolts that run from the rear of the engine through to the front plate has become loose, or has broken or stretched, and is allowing the oil to leak.

Either way, it's a serious problem. Removal and teardown is the only way to diagnose further or to fix. Ignoring it will invite a serious failure, should the ring fail completely or the bolt sheer off and move back to contact the flywheel.

Good news is that you might just be lucky enough to only need to replace the soft seals, if nothing has warped out of tolerance.

Thanks for the fast reply :)

I guess (NITRO789) is a cheat and can't be trusted at all.

So that being said, what do i need to rebuild an 1984 12A engine, do i need the hwole kit including Apex seals ? where is the best place to get the rebuild kit from ?

Thanks for your help peeps

any idea's !

Alright, I cracked the engine open, so far so good :) the seals all look real good. What is the Best gasket set i can get for the 12A ?

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...6db9d21912.jpg

http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...92dab9a6fb.jpg

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...1906d83f8d.jpg

Alright 12A lovers out there, i am finally going to put my engine back togather.
What seal kit should i use that will handle a blowthrough turbo kit ? i am going to do finish it this weak with your help !!!!!!

I have tried looking through the archives however my laptop keeps laging when i click on a thread.

As for the turbo header, what gasket should i use ? can i use double stock exhaust gaskets ? keep in mind that as soon as the engine is togather, i'm a driving from Portland Oregon to Irvine cali, side by side with my 240Z (driven by my mechanic). I need to know what gasket set will be best, and if it's a good idea to turbo it before the road trip or after.

http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._6701940_n.jpg

Thanks for your advise.

Cant offer advice on the gaskets and seals,

However, from my turbo experience (albeit limited) you would definitely want to turbo it after the road trip. But so many other things to consider such as break in period, tuning time etc. Everything will be greater with a turbo, especially time needed to fine tune. Just my thoughts.

I have an offer on two runing 12A engines (uknown if they smoke) for 150 OR, i am going to pull my 81 engine apart after tommorow, should i purchase a 12a rebuild video, or can i just go with good memory and common sence, and some mechanic skills ? not to mention i am buying the atkins gasket kit.

What to do ? feedback would be appreciated.

all right, i have the atkins rebuild kit with me and he engine is apart. What can i do to the engine while it's apart to add horse power, things i can do or change that wont cost too much !?

Some photo's of the Original 1981- 12A engine that come with it after the tear down.

http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._2312581_n.jpg

1981- 12A
http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._1337641_n.jpg

1985-12A
http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._6445496_n.jpg

Makeshift engine stand.
http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._7324676_n.jpg

http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._4391189_n.jpg

Possible reason for white smoke !!!
http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos...8_925831_n.jpg

It must of been hot in there !!!
http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._4799361_n.jpg

Are those Rotors Stock ???
http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos...0_870351_n.jpg

1985-12A Rotor
http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._1750736_n.jpg