i rebuilt my carb but have no way of knowing how those tiny little wire clips attach to either the needles or the float itself. sterling did a great write up about it, but w/o pics i have no way of knowing how they go on. i'm certain THIS is why my float bowls are filled to the brim. i assume without the clips the needles aren't closing off and it fills like crazy. i would have known how they went back on if the PO would have had some in there himself. they weren't even there when i took the air horn off...

Quoted from sterling's write up(feel free to chime in dennis):
"Use a drill bit (shank end) to remove and install the needle seats by inserting through the cross-drilled holes and turning. Tighten the new ones the same way. Be certain there is an aluminum washer under both of them when reinstalling.

Do not forget to install the pins and springs that come with the kit into the needles when reinstalling the floats. The needle clips on the floats should be handled very carefully to avoid bending them, which can cause the floats to bind."

 

Only shot I have:

 

that is PERFECT! so the metal tang from the float slips in between the clip and the little brass rod on the needle, or on top of the clip?

 

Yep

 

I put it between. Ill report back tomorrow

 

I've had problems with them getting caught and not allowing the needles to seat properly, so I don't install them any more. Much easier...

 

huh... i thought it might be the reason both of my bowls were flooded... i still need to check the FBVS, that thing may be sticking. but would that cause both bowls to fill BEFORE startup? i thought for some reason it wouldn't be flooding till after the engine began running.... looks like i need to reread sterling's site.

 

On a carb'd car that has an electric pump the carb will recieve the same amount of fuel if the engine is running or not, as long as the key is in the on position. Usually if you have a problem with the fuel bowls overfilling, it shows up whether the engine is running or not. The needles are known to stick a bit though when brand new, usually a light tap on the banjo bolt will free them up.

 

I know this is an old thread but this is what I did also thought the clips were going to cause problems. Are they not needed?

 

Leave the needles, seats and floats stock. Then you'll have no problems with the little clips or flooding.

 

Thank you, yes I noticed there were no clips on the needles when I opened it up.

 

Then someone has monkeyed with your carb in the past. Hopefully it still runs right and doesn't flood. I've not yet seen an example of a good performing Nikki that runs right with aftermarket needles and seats. Aftermarket needles can work, if you give them plenty of break in time and burnish them before assembly, but the seats have to be stock. Aftermarket seats just don't work. They're all machined incorrectly. It's an industry-wide problem. Good news though is you can still get OEM seats from Mazdatrix (though I have not asked them over the phone about them yet).

 

Thanks again installed the carb today put in a new battery no crank Guess that is a solenoid problem will do a search then noticed the carb was full of gas.