Oil Injection Questions
 

Can't find replacement oil injection lines for my 12a. Can you use regular rubber hose as a replacement?

If I choose to premix can I just put bungs on the brass fittings or do I need to remove the pump and install a blanking plate?

Herb

I used rubber lines before.
If you go premix, I believe you do need to remove the pump, or else it will just pressurize the outputs and cause a leak. Instead of buying a block off plate, you can just remove the pump and take the guts out and put it back, from what I understand. It's not like the block off plates are expensive or hard to find, however.

You have to be really careful when using rubber line for the oil injections lines. The issue is heat.

I have some new ones stashed away for future use, but if I didn't I'd investigate using braided brake line.

I repaired the broken line with a piece of rubber hose. Cross fingers

Hey Herb -
mazdatrix (and likely then, Mazda) still sells the SHORT line:

https://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.a...m=14-670B-8871

Have heard others just bought two of these and they worked. Worth a shot at $20 ea....

I use my OMP AND a premix...

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

I use cloth braided rubber hose used as return lines on diesel engines. BMW and VW use it, holds up fine.

some other OMP threads that came up when doing a search on the site:

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...lines-1111144/

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...ement-1072806/

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...lines-1089234/

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...-carb-1085736/

The line needs to have sufficiently narrow internal diameter so that oil stays in line due to capillery action (leaving oil ready to inject every time you start the engine). whatever you use, it needs to have the same ID as the OEM lines.

IMO clear is better as it allows to periodically check and determine visually whether oil is actually being delivered to the engine.

Good thread on replacement clear lines here: AusRotary.com ? View topic - OMP lines - how to fix them properly for stuff all.

One source for line that fits the bill is fuel line repair kits for chainsaws/trimmers at the local hardware
store. The tubing is rated for fuel/petroleum and is small enough in diameter to meet the requirements
for the capillary action described in the previous post. I used some to replace the rubber from the
OEM hardline to the carburetor and its been working well for years now.

You want a very tiny ID so the oil stays in it after shut down due to capillary action. Remember the oil flows through these extremely slowly.