Yea that thought crossed my mind. What exact model chassis do you have and what is the tranny S4 or S5?

I guess it could be out of balance, although it is brand new and I feel confident the driveshaft shop did a good job. If the shaft was out of balance it is likely it would vibrate at all speeds and get worse at higher speeds. Mine doesn't do that. Running at 80 mph today on the highway--smooth as can be.

Why am I so lucky? Guess I should be thankful this is the only real problem encountered in the swap--could have been alot worse.

Let me know if any of you guys have ideas about this.

Thanks, Scott

I have a 83 chassis with a 84 gsl-se rear end. Trans is a S4 T2 unit.

You are lucky like you say. With all the work you've done in the past month one little drive shaft problem is a very small bump in the road. Right now I'm heating up my garage (it's -12 deg F here) in order to do some revisions to my setup. First I have to redesign my exhaust manifold wastegate runners then intake fuel pump then different oil cooler setup. I have a couple other small things I'd like to do as well but you get the point.

I was thinking, are your pinion bearings tight or how about the slip yoke, does it have up-down or side to side slop at all in the trans? I remember mine being pretty tight.

Shifter Tube Modification
 

Starting to post the procedures and drawings so others can easily make the mods. This is one part modified to fit an FB shifter box on a T2 transmission.

No drawing necessary for this one.

T2 Shifter Tube Modification
Goal is to shorten the tube by 2 cm and keep the formed rubber seals on ends intact.

Recommended procedure:

1) Cut ~2cm from center of tube. When cutting, allow for weld tolerances.

2) Weld tube back together, heat soak rubber seal ends to prevent melting.

Note: A little shorter on rod length is better than too long.

Shifter Rod Modification
 

Goal is to move the hole at the end of the rod 3 cm closer to the center of the rod, then remove 3 cm from the end of the rod (see attached drawing).

Very Important: The radial position of the new hole MUST be the same as the existing hole.

Note: This modification is to be performed on the stock S4 shifter rod. The tapping of the hole is to allow use of the FB bolt used on the FB shifter rod. Yes you could do this another way using a dowel pin.

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...postid=2619255

Recommended procedure:

1) Drill new hole 3 cm closer to center of rod from existing hole position--maintain existing radial position of hole. Use 5 mm or #9 drill.

2) Tap hole with 6 mm X 1.0 tap.

3) Drill approximately half of hole depth with 6 mm or #13 drill to allow for bolt shoulder.

4) Cut 3 cm from end of rod.

There is alot of information on this swap from down under. All the cars there are RHD, and so they have the steering gear right there. Chances are that is where you got the conflicting info. S5 turbo fits just fine.

Rex4life, lookin' good. Very clean install. Enjoy, its a pleasure to own a turbo FB :)

Wiring Connector Breakdowns
 

Here's a link to the wiring connector breakdowns.

ECU Mapping Files

If you need these files, copy them over to your own location. You never know how long they will be available.

Also, as always, use at you own risk.

Scott

EDIT BY MODERATOR:
I added a couple of files, since the original files
are no longer available.

-DF

Re: Wiring Connector Breakdowns
 

IMPRESSIVE!!

do you have any pics and/or write ups on what wires go where for that ECU? im putting an 87 NA into an 83 GSL.. the reason i am having so much trouble is that the best wiring harness i can get around here is a chopped one, so all i really have are the plugs and a few MILES of wire :)

Thanks

the link to ECU Mapping Files is pretty usefull but mine is such a mess i could really use some pictures and additional detail on what pins=what wires on the ECU plugs

First off, I suggest you start a new thread and explain your problem there. I'll be glad to help where I can, but I don't want this thread to contain this side topic. Just click the new thread button at the top of the 1st gen forum.

The wiring breakdown will help alot but you will need to customize it for your application. Fortunately the 87 NA is like an 88 T2. I don't know how similar the 83 NA is to an 84 FI. I do expect to be putting out the wiring diagrams in a week or two, this will help a little more. I would use my info as a guide to get you 80% of the way there.

Pics really won't help you much at all. Best thing you could do right now is get the 83 and 87 wiring diagrams and try to figure out how to run that 87 ECU in your 83. If you only have half the harness, then you need to find a descent harness to start with. You'll need part of the front (F) harness and all of the engine (EM) harness--go find a donor in the junkyard. None of the ECU plugs from the 83 will work on the 87.

I'll be looking for your new thread.

Scott

Tranny Mount Take 2
 

Well I decided last weekend I was going to try and fix the slight vibration problem--other than that she's running pretty good.

Ended up having several engine/tranny mounting issues:

1) The new left engine mount from Victoria British was about a 1/4" shorter than the stock one. Had to shim it up with washers to get the engine height and angle correct. Don't buy VB parts for critical items.

2) The angle of the tranny output shaft needed to slope down more. Basically the the working angles of the differential pinion and tranny shaft need to be about the same. Ended up shimming the stock mount 3/16" down with two washers and using a rubber muffler strap to isolate vibrations (about 5/16" thick). So that ends up bringing it up about 1/8" from the stock mounting height.

3) The tranny appeared to be installed on a small angle. Re-drilled some new holes and slid the output shaft more towards the drivers side of the car.

Lowering the tranny that much I had to bang the exhaust heat shield down a little more to clear the driveshaft--no big deal.

But guess what, it's still there. So I'm not sure where to go with this now and I'll just have to live with it for a while till I can think it over real good.

Scott

Too bad no one sells a tranny mount made for this conversion.....I would buy one (hint, hint anyone)

so you work for NASA? your pretty close to where i'm at. hopefuly i'll see your car around in person sometime, it look great and it's one hell of a sleeper.

props on the work :)

I don't know why, I used the stock tranny mount with NO adapters whatsoever. All I had to do was oval and slot a couple of the holes a liitle larger to fit.

Yea converting the mount isn't that big a deal. Also, I don't think the problem is the tranny mount.

My differential pinion flange is angled up about 6 degrees. The last adjustment I made I thought I was about matching that 6 deg. Looks like I need to try something else.

Yep, shoot me a pm sometime, and thanks for the good words.

Yea, that's where I started too--wish mine was that easy.

So DF, did you elevate the tranny off the mount and/or use any rubber mountings? If I ever figure this out it will be good for others to know.

Scott

Rex4Life How much would you sell that beauty for???
great job on the install, looks GREAT!!!!!!

I don't think it's the angle of your driveline. Mine is the same and I have no issues. If the shaft is out of balance I'm not sure it would only get worse as shaft speed increases. You know when you have a tire out of balance it seems that you can feel it at a certian speed and no other speed? I think that's what happens when a driveshaft is out of balance. Kind of like it goes in and out of bad harmonics. I don't know for sure, just speculating. If it was me I'd take the shaft to a different driveline place and have them put it on their balancer to see if it's off, but that's just me :)

Good luck and hope all works out well.

Cam

Yea I'm leaning in that direction. I might try the steel clamp trick and see if that makes any differences.

I wouldn't take anything less than $8k. Yea I know I'd have a hard time selling it for that, but I have lots of money and time wrapped up in it. Then again, if someone really wants an clean turbo GSL-SE--that's what it will cost. The best thing I can do with it is drive it for the next 5 years and enjoy it--while I'm saving for an 8 (and then it won't need emissions in Houston--hehe). I love the turbo and still haven't opened it up yet--it's a real hoot to drive.

Scott

Do you think there is room to fit the Racing Beat front strut tower brace that ties in the firewall also?

direct freak used a 3/4 in spacer on his, and so am I, although I havent driven it, it looks level with the rear end.

i have the same thing on my car, and mine i didnt felt any vibration, but another thing too, i only drove here once because i have oil pressure problems

Bingo!
 

Bingo--I think you're right. I looked at the shaft today and noticed that there was two large weights welded on at the differential end. So I put a 3" steel clamp band on the driveshaft with the clamp opposite the welded on weights. Huge difference. On a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 where it was before, I'm at like 1-2. So driving this next week I'll be checking it out more and let you know how it goes. Man who would of thought a brand new shaft could be out of balance--them guys did a nice job making it and I'm really suprised about it being out of balance.

I don't think the RB brace will fit with a TMIC--would have to go FMIC to use the brace.

Mods coming up:

1) Walbro 255 fuel pump (and new GSL-SE fuel filter).
2) Corksport 3" downpipe
3) RX7.com high flow cat
4) Hoodscoop for TMIC (but still not 100% sold on this yet).

Scott

Re: Bingo!
 

Maybe they accidentally bumped/rotated the shaft and put the weight in the wrong place after balancing? I can see how it can happen while balancing tires so maybe it would be just as easy for a driveshaft?

Ok now the fuel pump. Does Walbro make a external 255l/hr pump or do you plan on sumping the standard 255?

I have my tank out and am getting ready to order the high pressure internal 255l/hr one. I'm not sure yet how I want to go about putting it into the tank yet though..

Cam

yes. walbro maks an inline 255. you can find them online for about $125-$140 with brackets and some fittings.

Yes there is a Walbro 255 external. Here's one that I found:
LINK

Even more helpful, I found another source that has the flow graphs which shows we need to use the GSL392, the other pumps just don't have enough flow/pressure for our application.

LINK

If you find another model that is better let me know.

They also have a good variety of adapter fittings. I would like to keep the stock SE plumbing and fuel filter. That means I will need to find an adapter to a banjo bolt--though I don't know what size yet.

Scott