When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Are u saying u can do 18x11 295/30/18 +50 square with zero'd out no camber, stock alignment, no fender work?
Originally Posted by BLUE TII
Did you need any fender work and camber to run this? I'm looking to run 18x10 w/ 265's, but I'm trying to avoid any rolling or any ridiculous amounts of camber.
Your wheel width and tire width aren't the determining factor on fitment.
You didn't state the offset you are trying to use.
Offset is what centers the tire between the fender and suspension.
If you run +50 offset you will have no problems with those sizes.
If you run +38 offset you will have to roll the front fender lip under and run -2.4 degrees camber up front. Rears can be stock fender lips with -1.4 camber.
My old set-up was 18x10.5 +38 and 265/35-18.
It fits the same as my new set-up which is 18x11 +45 and 295/30-18.
Because offset centers the tire between the suspension and the fender.
Play with this site to figure out what I mean if it isn't apparent by reading what I wrote.
wthx100 Are u saying u can do 18x11 295/30/18 +50 square with zero'd out no camber, stock alignment, no fender work?
No, you would need about -1.4 rear camber to fit 18x11 +50 with 295/30-18 (depends on 295s- some are too wide) in back without rolling the rear fender lip under (to get full suspension movement without tire hitting body).
With that +50 offset tire or rim may hit coilover and trailing arm ( I found +45 was as inset as I could run without mods). You can use offset shock bushing and you can offsetaftermarket the trailing arm to fix that as others have done in the past.
Each degree of camber will move the top of the tire around 6mm. Double that to translate to tire width change (outside and inside of tire).
If you want 0 camber you would have to run a 275/35-18 (kinda tall) or a 265/35-18 on that 18x11 +50 to clear unrolled stock fenders.
And if the car has been in an accident or subframe shifted or.... it will be a problem.
Just finished adapting theses wheels. The rears are 18x9.5 +65 fronts are 17x8.5 +58. Tires are Michelin Pilot ss. 235/45/27 & 265/35/18. Currently there are no spacers, everything fits. No rubbing.
Question.
I really am tapped out after this build and dont want to buy new wheels unless I have to.
Right now when turning sharp my front tire grabs my fender. Im running agressive offset with rolled and slightly stretched fenders. Front tires are 225 45 17 on a 17x9.5
Im wondering if a 235 40 17 and some camber would work? Right now the front is raised, the springs are preloaded and I have the camber at stock and it still rubs when cornering real sharp or entering say a gas station
Front tires are 225 45 17 on a 17x9.5
Im wondering if a 235 40 17 and some camber would work?
You wrote you had 225/45-17 and are wondering if 235/40-17 and camber would help...
Did you mean to write you have 255/45-17 now?
If so, that tire is around 1" too tall for the front of an FD and contributing to the problems you are having from wrong offset wheels.
If you really have 225/45-17 up front then going to 235/40-17 would be a step in the wrong direction to stop the problems you are having (wider tire will not help).
No I do have 225 45 17. I want to avoid stretching more than it already is. Im not a fan of the stretch in the first place.
I already know the offset is agressive. Not the question or opinion im looking for.
The wheels were a trade deal years ago im just looking for any last ditch effort before I order some ccw classic 3 pc
5 17. I want to avoid stretching more than it already is. Im not a fan of the stretch in the first place.
I already know the offset is agressive. Not the question or opinion im looking for.
The wheels were a trade deal years ago im just looking for any last ditch effort before I order some ccw classic 3 pc
Yeah, just trying to make sense of what you are asking because what you asked does not make sense...
A wider tire will make the rubbing worse.
Going from a 225 to a 235 will make the interference 5mm worse.
More camber will help alleviate the rubbing.
Each degree of negative camber will pull the tip of the tire in ~6mm.
So, add -1 degree of negative camber to what you have now to see if it fixes the rubbing or add wider tires and -2 degrees negative camber to see if it fixes the rubbing.
Ok I gotcha. Bare with me. In all honsesty its been 12 years since I have bought wheels or even messed with this stuff.
I decided to go with new wheel. I like the stretch and camber look but i really need less offset and more meat.
I decided to get some fikse profile 10 silver 18x9.5 +38, 18x10.5 +38r
whats up guys hoping I might get some help on tire size.
I picked up new wheels which are 9" +20 18" with a 3 inch lip and 10" +20 18" 4 inch lip.
hoping some of you with a stock body might have some insight the likely hood of me fitting 265 or 275 35 or 30's in the rear. then im thinking 245 up front.
whats up guys hoping I might get some help on tire size.
I picked up new wheels which are 9" +20 18" with a 3 inch lip and 10" +20 18" 4 inch lip.
hoping some of you with a stock body might have some insight the likely hood of me fitting 265 or 275 35 or 30's in the rear. then im thinking 245 up front.
Front: You can try 245 but you'll need some camber adjustment to get it to fit. I know 235/35 would fit.
Rear: 265/35 would be a close fit but would look great with some pulled fenders. I know 255/35 would fit.
I just realized it's pretty pointless for me to post in this thread because my fenders are custom flared so these sizes and offsets won't work the same for anyone if your fenders aren't the same as mine. But I've posted in the past and here we go again.
I picked up another set of AME TM02 and had them widened from 9" to 11.5", but measuring between the inside of the lips they actually are a little over 11.25". This is for all four wheels and I found a set of used AD08 with good life left in 285/30, which fit with just enough stretch to preload the sidewall. They fit perfectly. I test fit them on the car with different size spacers until I figured out what I needed. I ended up needing 10mm on the front and 35mm on the rear to make them sit similar to my current setup. For all four wheels, the size is 18x11.5 and offset is about +46 after being widened.
We flared the rears using an Eastwood fender roller. Just kept pulling until it took that natural shape. Then we smoothed it with a hammer and dolly and used filler to finish it. The fronts are stock fenders with the shaped flares welded on. I had a local shop do that. He rebuilds vintage race cars and makes exhausts by hand, so he's pretty good with metal lol.
I would have went for a more gradual flare if you were going to go ahead and work the actual metal. They def look like an afterthought and not stock to the car. For a car with so many sweeping smooth gradual lines it stands out as non stock. I'm kinda picky about these types things so ignore me if you dissagree.
I would have went for a more gradual flare if you were going to go ahead and work the actual metal. They def look like an afterthought and not stock to the car. For a car with so many sweeping smooth gradual lines it stands out as non stock. I'm kinda picky about these types things so ignore me if you dissagree.
I was originally going to go with more of a bubble type of flare, not so sharp like these, but I ended up really liking these so I had the fronts done to copy the rears.
Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
Moar pooch pictures are required to discern proper......pitment
Lol nice pun. Here's a pooch pic but it's not relating to pitment lol. He loves bubble wrap.
I got the spacers today so I put those and the track wheels on this afternoon and took it for a drive. I like it. 10mm spacers in the front and 35mm spacers in the rear. 18x11.5 all around (it's actually closer to 11.25") and 285/30. So about +36 on the front and +11 on the rear.
[QUOTE=speedjunkie;12084571]I got the spacers today so I put those and the track wheels on this afternoon and took it for a drive. I like it. 10mm spacers in the front and 35mm spacers in the rear. 18x11.5 all around (it's actually closer to 11.25") and 285/30. So about +36 on the front and +11 on the rear.
[URL=http://s44.photobucket.com/user/speedjunkie23/media/20160711_190219_zpshrawwhqd.jpg.html]
By design the bolt on spacers are safe- there is only the added set of lugnuts that could loosen that decreases their safety over running no spacer.
In actual practice, the lug studs used on the very inexpensive ones are often very weak. If you purchase the inexpensive ones- replace all the lug studs with quality pieces before use.
By design the bolt on spacers are safe- there is only the added set of lugnuts that could loosen that decreases their safety over running no spacer.
In actual practice, the lug studs used on the very inexpensive ones are often very weak. If you purchase the inexpensive ones- replace all the lug studs with quality pieces before use.
I see...
my main concern is about the wheel bearing.
Are the FD/wheel bearings strong enough for 35-40 mm spacer?
05-07-16, 10:43 PM
