im looking at getting a megasquirt system but im still not sure about getting there boost controller... is that and the megasquirt II all i need to make it work or do i need something else cause if dont need any thing else then its a good deal i can change my map's for bigger or lower boost and save or use more fuel
if i need 40$ more in parts i might as well just get a standalone boost controler

thanks 4 the help. please respond fast as im ordering it int he morning i know last minute decision lol

 

setting up boost control on a standalone is no joke. You need to really understand how boost control systems work to even attempt it. It's not like turning a couple ***** on a Profec S/Profec B

 

that answers my ?'s lol i best just get a manual boot controller and set my 6 psi mark and 12 psi mark lol thanks for the heads up. i was hoping it would be simple

 

a boost controller is really important to the car and its tune.
I had a manual in my car for a little bit because my anchient greddy finally went out. The bad thing about the manual is you cant set how they bleed off, so they let the wastegate start to open before you build your boost.

I had a greddy in there after that, and now I just upgraded my computer and Im running a built in controller thru the Wolf V500.

The midrange on the dyno charts before and after say it all, about 30-40hp across the midrange because you can now tweak when you want the wastegate to open. So right now mine opens up just about before the high boost setting is.

Using the built in controller, which still obviously requires a solenoid, does require carefull set up so if your not going to use a pro or you are not 100% familiar with what your doing or you dont have the patience to learn it I would consider another method.

Dont skimp on the boost controller.

 

I have been playing with the Megasquirt boost controller for a few days now using the Jeep/GM/Sonoma/whatever solenoid that DIYAutoTune used to sell (now they have a better one). Currently working only off of the duty cycle table but it seems to work well. The wastegate spring is too weak so when he gets a man sized spring in there we will retune the duty cycle table and then move to the KPA targets table for true closed loop boost control.

There is no need to run higher or lower boost to save fuel, nor is there a reason to run dual maps if properly tuned.

Also, moving to the Megasquirt section.

 

Several people are now successfully using the ms2/extra PID closed loop boost controller. Several hit full boost in fractions of a second after going to full throttle. You really can't do that with a manual boost controller.

Ken

 

I used it for a few days before a bit of a mistake on my part, and it worked well. It definitely requires tuning, and you want to test it at a boost that isnt going to be pushing your injectors just in case you get it wrong. I should get it working again within a couple days tho.

 

well i figured for the price i might as well add the extra parts i need for the controller all in all the so fare the upgrade to the megasquirt is only 646$ USD
not to bad, i figure il have saved up that much in one year if i can only save 10$ per week with it

 

For the price it is hard to beat. The new solenoid that DIYAutoTune sells is far better then the old one. It's nice to have a decent boost controller built into the ECU. Just remember to also get the MOSFET needed (DIY sells this as a ModKit) and run the wires out into the engine bay.

 

I'm using it, I find it pretty rooted sorry Ken I'm not sure I have it set up right tho. I might post up my settings and a diagram so we can rule out idiot owner error :P

 

Lol il be saying that many many times in the near future i think hehe

 

I'd say that a problem between the steering wheel and driver's seat is likely (joke)

There are at least 4 or 5 people using it without issues now, so I'd say it's fairly well proven, and we just need to figure out what settings will work for you.

Ken

 

Assuming I get tomorrow off work I will try to get vacuum diagram and a few screenshots of my settings.

I'm using an International Rectifier IRLZ44Z MOSFET to drive it, and it is a GM spec diyautotune solenoid (the one they don't sell anymore). It clicks when I set it to 50% duty in the idle bin, and I followed the vacuum connections from this website.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=870619

 

Did you try getting it to work yet in open-loop mode?

The main reason I include open-loop mode is so people can test out their settings and figure out whether the way they've plumbed it results in higher duty = higher boost, or lower duty = higher boost.

If higher duty = higher boost, then you need to turn on the invert setting for example. The "duty" I put there refers to wastegate position, so 0% means wastegate closed means higher boost.

Ken

 

I'm building my MSII V3.0 now, and ordered the boost control mod and newer boost solenoid. I was wondering how every one else wired up the mod on the 3.0 board? and if the are any updates on how its working for others?

Thanks

 

I ended up building a separate enclosure for it connected to the MS by a ribbon cable.

As an update to my previous post, I got it working well and tuned to respond and hold the desired boost (TPS-dependant) very well... 12 psi is about all the stock turbo will do will put out before it gets too inefficient tho, even with an FMIC.

 

I usually bolt the MOSFET to one of the end caps of the case.

 

Right now the current algorithm responds very well to changes in the PV (the boost in this case) but not the SP (the target). I'm working on some changes that should make it respond very quickly to both.

Ken

 

That's usually what we recommend unless you're installing a second heat sink. Which usually you wouldn't be on an RX-7.

We're running MS2/Extra controlled boost on our MR2, where it works pretty well. Our RX-7 test mule is naturally aspirated, though.

 

Cool, I didn't know you guys were using my boost algorithm now.

I'll have to get you guys to try out my changes that I have in mind then.

Ken

 

I found something curious regarding the boost controller and MS1/Extra. Enter the boost duty table and the trailing ignition stops. Then open another screen in Megatune (don't burn or anything) and the trailing starts again. Weird...

 

I'll talk to James about it, but we're not really doing anything with ms1/extra anymore.

Ken

 

It's not a big deal, I just thought it was strange.

 

can i run the boost controller with a msI V3 ?

 

no, it's ms2+ only.

Ken