I just bought my car this week. It has many problems.

1. The front bumper on my car has been damaged by the PO. He cut the section out below the lights and above the turn signal. Its seriously messed. So I went to get a new bumper and found a turbo II and promptly took the bumper home and tried to fit it to my car. It fits... The old turn signals do not. My turn signals on my car are longer thinner and clear. The ones that were on the bumper were amber turn signals. After closer inspection I found that the area around the bottom corners where larger on my old bumper than the one I just pulled from the JY. Whats the deal? Do I need to keep searching or do I have turn signals for some aftermarket bumper? They both have the MAZDA emblem engraved into the plastic so I cant figure it out.

2. The engine seems to be toast. 90psi in the front rotor housing and 60psi in the rear for compression. I checked it myself and want to be sure I did it correctly. I left the plugs in the bottom and put my tester in the top plug hole then cranked it 4 times with the throttle wide open. Im looking for a 13b turbo engine regardless of the current engines condition.

3. The PO says the rear end has a clunk. He said maybe rear diff mount. I was looking at it and cant figure out how to get to the diff mount on the front of the diff. It looks like the sub frame must be pulled to replace this mount. That doesnt sound right so I stopped and am now asking.

4. I cannot ge the head lights to pop up. I think the PO disabled them when he cut the bumper. Any idea what Im looking for? Cut wire? Pulled fuse?

5. The car is running off of premix... How safe is this to continue? I am seriously thinking the next engine should have a working oil metering system. premix cant be good for injectors. The current engine has 660cc injectors.. Are these stock?


I have several other questions about the engine, but there seems to be alot of info about that already here.

Thanks for your guidance!

Ray

 

1. It sounds like you have a mix and match bumper. The S4 (your car) should have amber front turn signals.The S5 has clear front signals. I think only the s5 has the enbosed mazda logo, but i may be wrong. So is the new bumper the one with the clear or amber? Not quite sure from the post.

4. check the fuse first and the little **** above the lightswitch (middle on left side) this allows you to raise the lights without turing them on. Alot of people disable the pop ups so the lights shine through the clear lenses they use the pop up **** instead to raise and lower. If that doesn't work. there are little ***** under each headlight to raise them in case of motor failure, try that. All the way upo on both sides. this will let youdrive at night.

5. Premix is just fine if you are willing to do it each and every time you fill up. If you forget its not good, so pick what you want to do. The oil metering pump is conected by a metal rod behind the alternator. It goes to the throttle body. If it is just not hooked up it is easy to fix, but you have to make sure the omp lines are hooked up. Download service manual or search to learn the test.

5. No stock injectors are 550x4, unless there is something to adjust the fuel, Rtek chip, Safc etc... your AFRs are going to be off.

Good luck

 

Ray that clunking does it soundlike its right behind you when you drive the car? Or if it happens durring shifts or under power load then yes it's your diff mount i had the same thing happen to me and yes you have to take the sub frame out. If its the diff mount that is broken check mazdatrix.com they have oem and competition ones hopefuly you didn't break the part where the diff mount connects to the subframe cuz this means you need a new sub frame! any more ask away

 

To be honest Im a way green noob to the RX7. So I dont know what the S4 and S5 are except that my car is S4 and S5 stuff is interchangeable.
The bumper that I bought my car with has clear lights and my car is a 87. The molding strip matches the rest of my car as well. The bumper I just picked up came from a T II as well, but it was obviously newer. I glanced at the plate on the right side of the engine bay and it said S4 for body and something for color. Hopefully I was looking at the right plate. The car was however newer than mine and had ABS. I didnt check how much new as I was told the indicator to determine S4 and S5 cars was the tail lights. The car out there had the same tail lights as my car which are the plain rectangle ones. Im going out there this morning and taking a look again to be sure what year. If I have a newer bumper on my car Ill just buy some turn signals to fit my new bumper.

I never heard the clunking, but the PO described what to me sounds like front diff mount. It happens every time you engage the diff. Im use to working on early Datsun Z and they have a very similar setup for the IRS. The mounts break and slam into a safety band and make a loud thud. Im temped to make a solid mount. Everything else on the car is solid mount now.

As the injectors go yes the car has a SAFC II and a stoic guage.


Ray

 

I checked everything and replaced fuses and such and now the driver side light goes up and down on command, but the passenger does not. The motor can be engauged with a test wire, but it wont do it on its own. I tried to replace the relay but that only fixed it part way. If the light is up it will go down but not come back up. At this point I think there is something missadjusted in the popup motor.

An ideas where to go next.? There has to be a switch inside the motor. Want advice before I tear into it.

Ray