I have a 500r shorty manifold A-spec kit like GoRacer. so after like 2 years of b.s. I have finally set the motor in the car this weekend. The problem now is the clearance of the turbo to the frame rail. The hot side is resting against it. no daylight at all between.

*side note, the car has been... "abused" by at least one previous owner, and although you cannot tell there is any frame damage in the engine bay, I think it's a "just enough to make a difference" kindof thing.

anyway. my first thought to remedy the situation was to bang on the frame rail with a ball peen hammer to make enough of an indent for maybe 1/4" clearance. well that thought ended quickly when I realized just on the other side is where the upper control arm of the suspension bolts to, so scratch that. so I am trying to think of other solutions. turbo can't go any closer to the engine. the guys at a-spec did a great job of getting it tight.

so here's my other thought. there is alot of blank space on the drivers side of the bay (no more ps/ac). would it be possible to scoot the engine over to that side just a tad? I'm thinking of slotting the engine mount holes a bit. only problem I could think of is the power plant frame. probably not a good idea to change that geomitry much, but would a 1/2" or so make any difference? any other thoughts or ideas are welcome.

 

Get a 1/2 inch spacer. It's just a piece that is welded onto the exaust manifold and you mate the turbo to.



http://www.burnsstainless.com/cgi-bi...r=T04T-188-304

 

thanks, but that would bring it the wrong way. If I could, I would want to bring it closer to the motor, but there is no room for that.

 

post a picture.

 

ok. here it is.

 

if anybody has a gt35r w/ a shorty manifold, could you post a picture of your fitment?

 

I had a 40r shorty mani and it cleared just by a tad. I actually had to double up on exhaust gaskets to clear the LIM. I was hitting the fire wall under load so I put on a engine brace and it was solved. Sorry this is no help to you but thought I would share. My ne long runner 4094 was hitting but a hammer solved that!

 

yeah, I like when hammers can solve stuff.

 

Have you spoken to A-Spec? If this was an early kit, I think I remember reading some of the early customers had to return their manifold for some re-work.

You might try shimming the motor mount to rasie the engine up. I'd do both sides so the motor won't sit crooked.

Jack

 

yeah, I think the early a-spec kits were off the other way, so the turbo contacted the LIM.

I may try the shim trick though. if I remember, I think you have about 1/2" of threads to play with on the motor mounts. doesn't sound fun to install though, has anyone tried this?

 

If you have enough material mill the flange that mates to the block . I believe aspec uses 1/2 thick flanges for the exhaust flange. Maybe that'll give you a lil more room.

 

I don't really have the room to try that one, but thanks for the idea.

 

Run a smaller turbine A/R? Not sure about that particulars of the rest of the engine...but that housing looks to be a 1.00 or 1.15? If you *could* use it, maybe a .96 would just clear?

 

^ yes, that was supposed to be my solution but I never received the .96 or 1.0 housing. I should probably remind him. Maybe it's till being heat coated, don't know.

Correct, those spacers will push the turbo towards the fender side and yes the first turbo manifolds (mine was the first) were too close to the intake manifold and the spacer was welded in for the fix.

The only thing is from reading another thread is the smaller 1.0 housing is even more of a PIA to remove/install.

I had looked in to using A HKS turbo manifold, as it mounts verticaly and close to the intake manifold. If the T04Z and T51R clear then I se no clearance issues with the GT35R. Unfortunately that cost money for the manifold and custom down pipe.

 

Or, instead of milling the flange, you could get one of those 1/2" spacers and have one of its faces milled at a slight angle, which would tilt the turbo upwards.

 

Base flanges aren't a measly 1/2" they are a manly 3/4" The problem you will run into with milling them is it will move everything inwards and as close as the WG sits to the bellhousing at the bottom that may become a issue. Yes this was an early one #2 to be exact. Long story as to why I had this issue on these two manifolds but it was resolved. Sk8's issue was just a big turbo in a small space there really wasn't much you could do. Your best bet might be to do what was said above^^^ milled at a slight angle to rotate the housing inwards. Personally the best advise I can give is do not modify it at all and call the shop tomorrow. I will take care of you on this one way or another that is why I offer the support and warranty. Modify it however and it's all yours

-S-

 

Take a hammer to that frame rail!

 

better yet sawz-all time!!

 

hmm, much to think about. thanks for the ideas all. I will call a-spec tomorrow if I remember.

 

so I lifted the engine a bit to see what would happen if I put a spacer under the pass. side engine mount. it seems to help the clearance (as in you can see a decent gap). my question is how much does the engine torque side to side with stock mounts? and what kind of clerance do you guys have who run this short manifold?

 

Pull the throttle line and you will see how little it rocks (almost nothing compared to piston V8). Rotating the snail only helps on the compressor side. I beleive Sean offered to work on it, so your best option is to send it back. Beleive me I know it's hard to do becuase of the wait but I eneded up sending mine back for a fix to.

 

Ernie wins. the spacer I mentioned in my last post didn't really do what I thought it would, so I grabbed the nearest BFH and had at it. it worked out better than I expected and I feel there is a comfortable gap now.

the good news is the engine comes out w/ turbo installed no problem. I think this will be the preferable way to remove the turbo now

so what's left is putting the wiring harness in there (got any pictures of how it's routed? I forget), routing the fuel kit, and a basket full or smaller details. I hope the wiring harness still functions, she was cooked pretty crispy upon removal.

 

^^Sounds like you might want to consider investing in a new harness. It would suck to blow your motor and trash your new turbo b/c of a problem with a fuel injector or CAS wire/connector

 

Listen to GoodfellaFD3S, a new harness is a must. Many of us have had too many issues with rebuilds running on old engine/coil harnesses.

 

+2 on harness