The kit that is sold from glens garage with the Megasquirt 1 with V3.0 board for 187$, does that price include all the resistors, diodes and stuff? or is it just the board and processor?

 

It includes everything you need to build a fully functioning megasquirt...

You'll still need to mod the MS to make it control both fuel and ignition on a stock rotary though.

 

ya i got that from your write up ... so i should be buying it by the end of this week then hopefully. Also from reading on the MS forum, it says i have to fabricate the aluminium bar? Its no biggie to just wanted to double check that too. Thanks

 

The kit will likely come with that aluminum heat sink already. As for the board mods for rotary applications, I can help you with that if you don't mind making a trip 1hr east on 401.

 

where abouts do you live? I will probably come and bug you for a few things knowing that though ... well you and Aaron, he lives about 10 minutes away from me .

 

One more question, If i wanted to use MSd boxes to run egnition along with Gm HEI coils (or do i just need one or the other?), what would i need ...

I should state that the car that i have right now is an 84 RX-7 with a 12a but will be changing the distributor to CAS and cutting 2 teeth out of there, for the MS. Let me know what would be a best setup. I would really like to have to nice power all the way to the top of my engine rpms.

 

I'd recommend you grab a set of FC coil packs and run that setup on the 12A. That way support will be readily available, as it's the most common MS'd rotary ignition.

 

cool .. i'll do that ... i actually already have the leading igniter, so i'll just grab the trailing from the same car

 

Don't cut the teeth out of the CAS...If your CAS dies at the side of the road half way to Indiana, it's going to be a lot harder to find and modify a replacement then to just find a replacement. The 2nd VR circuit is easy to build.

 

Sure, either way will work, but how often do you hear of a failed CAS? A passive VR sensor is an extremely reliable component. I'd be much more worried about finding a replacement LM1815 in the middle of Indiana...

 

I had one die in the middle of nowhere...

 

I don't think the lm1815 is any more likely to die than the CAS is...

 

so modifiying the board is the better way of doing things? I don't care either way its not that hard to do. I gotta look in my electronics components if I have an lm1815 ... if not I gotta buy one.

 

You will probably have to order an lm1815 from digi-key or somewhere...

I doubt that local electronics shop will have one, they're not incredibly common as far as I know.

Ken

 

I meant in my tool box of electronics chips ... that maybe we had to use it in school for something. If not I'll order it from there.

 

I suppose that depends on the build quality of the circuit, as there have been a few failures reported on msefi over the years. Regardless it's still an additional circuit to add to the system, so overall system reliability must be lower mathematically. In fact, if you look at it from a probability of vr sensor failure standpoint, the missing tooth scheme has half the chance of seeing a failure. Plus, if you do experience a failure, you can swap in the spare VR sensor that's probably still sitting inside the CAS and drive away - the spare is built right in! In any case, there are many ways to skin a cat so to speak.

Aaron, what was the failure mode of that CAS?

 

I don't know what killed the CAS as I didn't test (at the side of the road and all...). It went into the garbage shortly after...

dj55b, don't worry about sourcing any parts for the 'Squirt. Counterparts Electronics on Adelaide St. will stock or be able to order anything you need. I've ordered several LM1815s and they only take a day or two to come in.

 

Ya i was going to go there first, but everytime i go in there the store looks smaller and smaller, also they're usually not that cheap but i guess it is the only store that can get you almost anything. I was looking at digikey and they list a few of them that either end with N or M there was a third one too but can't remember. Is one a low voltage one and the other not? If they ask me which one should I get?

 

digikey partnumber LM1815N-ND

 

alright thank

 

Alright afew more things here,

would you guys recommend getting the MS relay Board?
also what type of shielded wires do you guys use? (DIY 12' kit is 40$ :S)
TPS i'll be using the Gm type right?