Well I'm 36000 miles on my new engine and thought its time to change my plug wires. Until now the car runs fine with a couple little problems which i hoped to fine while doing the wires. Only mods are a DP and ported wastegate. My boost has been between 11.5 and 12.5 under different conditions.

I bought new check valves and also needed to look into the o-ring around the TB and Black plastic pipe because of some oil seeping out and rough idle on startup.

Well I replaced the wires and found that when I put them on when i replaced my engine, I had the leading 1 wire(short wire) on the rear rotor and the longer L2 wire for the front. Different length wires give off different ohmn readings, so it should be interesting to see how the car runs on a cold startup.

Next, I replaced all the check valves and 1 green and white valve was really difficult to blow through. I put it all back together and went for a drive. It's hard to tell about the wires making a difference other than I don't get as much backfire while reving. The weird thing is I'm only getting 10lbs of boost and it's a little slower getting there. I drove the car every different way to try to get the boost above 10lbs and it just won't do it. I miss those 2.5lbs.

I also put some sealant around the TB and plastic intercooler pipe for a temp fix.

I double checked to see that I hooked everything up correctly and I did.

Maybe the bad check valve gave me more boost.


Later...Scott

 

The wires are too short to make any significant difference .

 

Found the problem.

IC hose to the plastic pipe/TB had come loose.

The problem I was hoping to fix with the wires and check valves was a cold start issue.

When I cold start it, the idle is great for about 1 min and the it goes du dududu dududu du dududu until it gets warm a couple mins later and then its perfect.

No white smoke other than because its cold out and no smoke from turbos. Maybe my air pump is tryinmmg to die.

Any help is appreciated.