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Was rebuilding the Ford diff last night and forgot a shim on the pinion, which meant I had to pull the bearing off - wrecking the bearing. New bearing incoming.
Was rebuilding the Ford diff last night and forgot a shim on the pinion, which meant I had to pull the bearing off - wrecking the bearing. New bearing incoming.
that shim sets the pinion depth... so you'll need to take it on and off until you get it right.
most people use a crappy/used bearing and grind down the ID of the bearing so it just slips on so they can test with it.
or you can get a setup like this which relocates the shim to the other side. Severe Duty Pinion Shims
You can also get a solid pinion spacer from Ratech. It makes changing a pinion seal a snap if you ever have to. You never have to deal with the crush sleeve.
Well the Surtrack (SURTRACK FD8170) Ford axles I ordered don't work for this. The bear is a red one too small to fit the Ronin axles. Very annoying since I had to take these new axles apart to figure that out.
I'm running 30mm spacers on front and 20mm on the back and it's pretty close... (because of the tires)
why did you swap? I thought your old wheels were decently big 15s? 15s and 16s are a good slick size... 17 I didn't think was. (I could be wrong). do they make a 23-24" slick for a 17?
Freezer is full of wheel bearings as a contingency plan for a "While I'm in there" situation while installing my new ARP extended wheel studs. (Thanks J-Auto)
Spacers got dropped off at the machine shop to get a little tuneup to fit more nicely.
Meanwhile, I need to get off my *** and get the shop to finish up my rear diff, because my driveshaft FINALLY shipped yesterday. Apparently it takes more than a month to manufacture a carbon fiber driveshaft.
She's not rusty - never seen winter - but 30 years of aluminum oxidation would take forever to polish out. Much easier to give it a good clean and a shot of paint to protect.
Meanwhile -
I know when that driveshaft bling. That can only mean one thing.
Re-doing the fuel system while the rear suspension is all out. Much easier to access. Switching from braided -6 to lightweight aeroquip 8
She's not rusty - never seen winter - but 30 years of aluminum oxidation would take forever to polish out. Much easier to give it a good clean and a shot of paint to protect.
Meanwhile -
I know when that driveshaft bling. That can only mean one thing.
Re-doing the fuel system while the rear suspension is all out. Much easier to access. Switching from braided -6 to lightweight aeroquip 8
I enjoy knowing there is a protective coat of oxidation on all my raw aluminium parts. Looking good.
03-09-16, 09:21 PM
Looking good.