Nj
01-18-16, 07:55 PM
#2
Boost gauge should be your first mod so you can see that the car is making proper boost. You should see between 8 and 10 psi. If it's boosting less or more than that then you know you have a problem. It's an excellent tool to diagnose problems and know that the car is running correctly.
01-18-16, 08:36 PM
#3
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No but if you plan to mod the car you will need an upgraded ECU or you will blow up the engine. The Apexi Power FC stand alone allows you to get the car custom tuned for the correct air fuel ratio and has other features as well like being able to control when your fans come on. You can lower the temp threshold. You have a lot to learn but the one thing you need to learn quick is the stock ECU is not capable of running the car at additional boost pressure and it won't be able to control the boost from rising (boost creep) when the exhaust and intake flow is significantly improved.
Boost gauge should be your first mod so you can see that the car is making proper boost. You should see between 8 and 10 psi. If it's boosting less or more than that then you know you have a problem. It's an excellent tool to diagnose problems and know that the car is running correctly.
Boost gauge should be your first mod so you can see that the car is making proper boost. You should see between 8 and 10 psi. If it's boosting less or more than that then you know you have a problem. It's an excellent tool to diagnose problems and know that the car is running correctly.
01-18-16, 08:45 PM
#4
Boost to start. A decent wideband needs to be connected to a logger like a Datalogit for the power FC so you can see, log and adjust air fuels. It's probably a long term solution for anyone modding one of these cars. It's a good place to start but the learning curve is steep. You should swing by IR Performamce and tell them your goals and get a plan and budget set for the build.
There is too much to explain, you will need some professional guidance for a while first. Learning curves can get expensive without trustworthy guidance by people who do this everyday.
There is too much to explain, you will need some professional guidance for a while first. Learning curves can get expensive without trustworthy guidance by people who do this everyday.
01-18-16, 09:04 PM
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Nj
Yeah that's whyere I went in Metuchen and they replace my radiator because original radiator was leaking. they were the ones who put the koyorad. He said I should get my exhaust pipe next.
01-20-16, 05:32 AM
#6
There is nothing better than the stock fan and shroud assembly. The only time I would suggest going with something aftermarket is if it's forced on you as a result of some custom intercooler etc.
As to which standalone, go with whatever the shop suggests.
Actually the FIRST mod if it hasn't been done yet is to remove the stock pre-cat for a good downpipe. The SECOND would be an aftermarket temp gauge as the stock one is worse than worthless. Then a boost gauge IMO.
Also IMO there is no rush to a standalone ECU unless you want to increase boost. There are side benefits...some of which were mentioned. But if you're happy with the car, it's running well and your funds are limited then no need to jump in right away. Many of us drove the car for years on the stock ECU.
Oh...and it's really helpful to use a thread title that hints at what you're actually asking about. Especially when you leave the NEW MEMBER TECH section.
As to which standalone, go with whatever the shop suggests.
Actually the FIRST mod if it hasn't been done yet is to remove the stock pre-cat for a good downpipe. The SECOND would be an aftermarket temp gauge as the stock one is worse than worthless. Then a boost gauge IMO.
Also IMO there is no rush to a standalone ECU unless you want to increase boost. There are side benefits...some of which were mentioned. But if you're happy with the car, it's running well and your funds are limited then no need to jump in right away. Many of us drove the car for years on the stock ECU.
Oh...and it's really helpful to use a thread title that hints at what you're actually asking about. Especially when you leave the NEW MEMBER TECH section.
Last edited by Sgtblue; 01-20-16 at 05:36 AM.
01-22-16, 10:20 AM
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Radiator Fan
There is nothing better than the stock fan and shroud assembly. The only time I would suggest going with something aftermarket is if it's forced on you as a result of some custom intercooler etc.
As to which standalone, go with whatever the shop suggests.
Actually the FIRST mod if it hasn't been done yet is to remove the stock pre-cat for a good downpipe. The SECOND would be an aftermarket temp gauge as the stock one is worse than worthless. Then a boost gauge IMO.
Also IMO there is no rush to a standalone ECU unless you want to increase boost. There are side benefits...some of which were mentioned. But if you're happy with the car, it's running well and your funds are limited then no need to jump in right away. Many of us drove the car for years on the stock ECU.
Oh...and it's really helpful to use a thread title that hints at what you're actually asking about. Especially when you leave the NEW MEMBER TECH section.
As to which standalone, go with whatever the shop suggests.
Actually the FIRST mod if it hasn't been done yet is to remove the stock pre-cat for a good downpipe. The SECOND would be an aftermarket temp gauge as the stock one is worse than worthless. Then a boost gauge IMO.
Also IMO there is no rush to a standalone ECU unless you want to increase boost. There are side benefits...some of which were mentioned. But if you're happy with the car, it's running well and your funds are limited then no need to jump in right away. Many of us drove the car for years on the stock ECU.
Oh...and it's really helpful to use a thread title that hints at what you're actually asking about. Especially when you leave the NEW MEMBER TECH section.
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01-23-16, 11:00 AM
#8
If you're concerned about cooling there are things that can help on a stock car that aren't radical or expensive....
*Use as much distilled water with the coolant as you can safely get away with in your climate. And change it every couple years.
*Check all coolant hoses, but especially inspect the turbo coolant lines. They're expose to a lot of heat and tend to swell/bloat with time. Especially the upper-most one. They are a little fiddly to replace, but not expensive...maybe $30 for both.
*Get some 3" thick upholstery foam and stuff all the gaps you'll see around the radiator face and where the intercooler duct sits.
*Change out the factory fan thermoswitch with a S5 FC thermoswitch . It's also a little fiddly to change as you have to pull the cross-over tube and alternator, but the switch itself is completely plug n play and changes the threshold temperature for the fans to kick on from 105 C. to 95 C. A significant margin of safety on a hot summer day.
*Use as much distilled water with the coolant as you can safely get away with in your climate. And change it every couple years.
*Check all coolant hoses, but especially inspect the turbo coolant lines. They're expose to a lot of heat and tend to swell/bloat with time. Especially the upper-most one. They are a little fiddly to replace, but not expensive...maybe $30 for both.
*Get some 3" thick upholstery foam and stuff all the gaps you'll see around the radiator face and where the intercooler duct sits.
*Change out the factory fan thermoswitch with a S5 FC thermoswitch . It's also a little fiddly to change as you have to pull the cross-over tube and alternator, but the switch itself is completely plug n play and changes the threshold temperature for the fans to kick on from 105 C. to 95 C. A significant margin of safety on a hot summer day.
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