kkev.7788

Hi all! I have a rather frustrating problem with my '88 non-turbo FC.

It ran perfectly yesterday and now it won't crank. Battery is a healthy 12.4-12.5 V, and all interior and exterior lights work. Engine is not flooded.

Grounds seem to be okay. Any suggestions? Anyone think the starter motor is bad? Ignition seems to be fine since turning signals and wipers work. Can anyone tutor this noob on how to troubleshoot and fix this problem in easy terms?

Thanks all!

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Tap the starter with a hammer a few times around the solenoid area and the cast areas at the front and rear. Could just be stuck.

Failing that, there are starter test procedures in the FSM.

The Factory Service Manuals for all years of RX-7 (and many other rotary cars) can be downloaded for free here: Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals . They contain all common service information information and more, and are an essential tool for any sort of service work that needs to be performed on these cars.

Additionally, the Haynes service manual for the 1986 thru 1991 RX-7 (both turbo and NA) can be found at most local auto parts stores or purchased from any good bookstore (ISBN number 1 56392 007 7). It is only about $25 and is a great quick reference for things like this. Not only does it contain most of the information in the FSM condensed into an easy to read format, but it includes full wiring diagrams as well.

These manuals will answer 99% of service related questions for the car and if you intend to do your own repair work, you will need at least one of them. Preferably both, since the FSM is a free download. The Haynes is a good quick reference covering 99% of questions, while the FSMs show complete and detailed procedures.

satch

iTrader: (1)

You say the engine won't crank but you also say the engine is not flooded. A flooded engine won't prevent it from cranking but it could prevent it from starting. So, what exactly is your problem, will the car crank but not start or the starter does not engage and crank the engine?

If the starter does not engage then check the starter cut relay. It's next to the main relay (both are bolted to the driver's fender). The relay in question only has one plug w/4 wires and not two plugs like the main relay. If you have the stater cut relay then look at the 4 wires and you'll notice that there are two Black/Green wires. One is small and has 12 volts w/key to on while the other B/G wire is thicker and has no voltage w/key to on. Focus on the thicker B/G wire. W/key to start and clutch depressed it should have voltage (probably close to 10 volts or so). If it does not then your problem is either the interlock switch or the ignition.

The interlock switch is located towards the very top of the clutch pedal (not down low- that's another switch). The interlock switch has two wires. They are Black/Red and Black/Green. W/key to start the B/R wire should have voltage. If it does not then the ignition switch is problematic. If the B/R wire does have voltage then w/the clutch depressed the voltage found on the B/R wire should pass onto the B/G wire. If it does not then the fault is the interlock switch. If the voltage does pass from B/R to B/G and you have the starter cut relay then the fault is likely this relay.

If you narrowed down the problem to this relay then jumper the Black/White wire in this relay to the thick B/G wire found in the same relay and try to start the car. If the starter engages then the problem is the starter cut relay. The fault could either be the relay or the relay is not receiving a proper signal from the factory alarm.