Because I love my 7's, Local here on LI only!
06-21-12, 05:28 PM
#26
Insane Burning Diarrhea
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). It's just starting to pick up, finally the summers here 
Good luck on the detailing gig.
06-21-12, 08:09 PM
#27
Diamond Cut Seven
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It's a shame they discontinued it. It still holds the best glaze properties, I have yet to see it be beat. I have a guy who gets them for 30 or so a can which will last you forever anyways. I used M16 (1 Coat) and Colline 476 (1 coat) and my car has so much depth and is literally bullet proof, haha.
Alot of the good stuff is banned in the us or just doesn't come here... Riccarro clay (Got both the yellow and blue) as well as dodo juices uk line of stuff & festool tools. Sonus clay is a great alternative to riccarro though.
06-22-12, 08:58 AM
#29
Psalms 37**25
have three cali verts with oxidized paint but no rust or dents...dont intend on painting them. ..I have seen guys wet sand with 1500-2000 then use 3m finnes-it then hand glaze then hand wax with an orbital buffer...lots of work.
06-22-12, 02:24 PM
#30
Diamond Cut Seven
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I would STRONGLY advise you NOT to go under 2000 with oxidized paint. The problem is oxidized paint is becomes brittle and the heat from wet-sand (Yes, Wet-sanding does generate heat regardless of the water) which can cause the paint to flake. This results is complete loss of the paint all the way to the primer and sometimes to the metal.
2. I wouldn't wet-sand less then that unless you have a paint-depth gauge. The other problem is the clear might be missing in some areas. Sanding these areas can cause you take the paint right off, if you take off let's say .02 on the surface in one spot only has .02 while another has .04 means you will take the paint clear right off while other spot might be left on.
Wet-sanding is NOT the first alternative in detailing, it's the last. I always recommend to all my customers NOT to wet-sand them selves. It has nothing to do with me making $, the fact is if you mess up it will cost you serious $ to fix it.
The thing about wet-sanding is you might get the look you want but your sacrificing your cars protection. While your "leveling" the surface per say, your thinning the protective barrier for your cars paint. This can result in further and even faster oxidation later on, especially in place like NY where climates are the extremes.
Personally stay away from wet-sanding, its the half *** way of fixing scratches. You sacrifice way too much for a little shine. If a detailer tells you to wet-sand right off the bat they are either too cheap to use quality polish, bad at what they do or just not skilled at using a rotary.There's a fine line between Pro detailers & Bodyshops... Trust me the result is "Clear".
If you'd like I'll gladly do a free test spot/demo on one of your cars and show you a quality result.
08-06-12, 05:03 PM
#31
Diamond Cut Seven
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Update: I decided to do a full service detail and get it on record from start to finish. I hope you guys enjoy
Part 1 - Electric Pw Rinse, Foam Cannon, Hand Wash, Riccaro Clay & Cali Water Blade + Airblaster No touch dry.
[youtube]LKeB7MsCj9Q[/youtube]
Part 2 - Testing out polish spots & Reading out depth.
[youtube]z7W6Iul8ZL8[/youtube]
Part 3 - Finally cracked the code, Breaking into the paint, Removing waterspots.
[youtube]fAIhBnTSHkM[/youtube]
Part 4 - Finishing up the hood, Starting the fenders and Quarters!
[youtube]KVEu7HKwxEE[/youtube]
Part 5 - Finishing the Quarters, Hatch and Starting the Rear Bumper.
[youtube]fC0QQzJik4Y[/youtube]
Part 6 - Finishing Touches, Wax, Glass and more wax!
[youtube]C0sVzjxjGUg[/youtube]
Part 1 - Electric Pw Rinse, Foam Cannon, Hand Wash, Riccaro Clay & Cali Water Blade + Airblaster No touch dry.
[youtube]LKeB7MsCj9Q[/youtube]
Part 2 - Testing out polish spots & Reading out depth.
[youtube]z7W6Iul8ZL8[/youtube]
Part 3 - Finally cracked the code, Breaking into the paint, Removing waterspots.
[youtube]fAIhBnTSHkM[/youtube]
Part 4 - Finishing up the hood, Starting the fenders and Quarters!
[youtube]KVEu7HKwxEE[/youtube]
Part 5 - Finishing the Quarters, Hatch and Starting the Rear Bumper.
[youtube]fC0QQzJik4Y[/youtube]
Part 6 - Finishing Touches, Wax, Glass and more wax!
[youtube]C0sVzjxjGUg[/youtube]
08-08-12, 08:53 AM
#34
Diamond Cut Seven
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I actually have a guy who does PDr, however it would be far more $. If anyone is interested in having PDr done as well I can set it up and maybe work something out.
08-08-12, 11:30 AM
#35
Insane Burning Diarrhea
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I may be in for a PDR job when I get back from California in about a month. Nothing major, just three barely noticeable dings on accessible panels (no drilling required). I may have a friend with an S2000 that might be in for a group job also.
BTW, awesome detailing as expected. Out of curiosity, what did you use as LSP?
BTW, awesome detailing as expected. Out of curiosity, what did you use as LSP?
08-08-12, 11:42 AM
#36
Diamond Cut Seven
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I may be in for a PDR job when I get back from California in about a month. Nothing major, just three barely noticeable dings on accessible panels (no drilling required). I may have a friend with an S2000 that might be in for a group job also.
BTW, awesome detailing as expected. Out of curiosity, what did you use as LSP?
BTW, awesome detailing as expected. Out of curiosity, what did you use as LSP?
I'm really interested in trying Chemical guys Lava with the backlight paste. I've heard amazing things about it on bright colored cars.
11-19-12, 10:49 AM
#37
Diamond Cut Seven
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Bump for winter preps, fall is the best driving season! Nothing like driving through the back roads boosting on cool crisp air. Get you car a nice jacket(wax) for the winter and keep it bundled up tight from the elements!
02-01-13, 10:31 AM
#38
Diamond Cut Seven
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Bump, Just got in a brand new, Flex Pe 14-2 and the newest high-teq polish from menzerna, FG400! If you want your car to be treated to the best, you know who to talk to.
02-01-13, 10:36 AM
#39
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PM me with a quote and what is included in the quote.
Thanks
On Long Island in Suffolk County - South Shore (in the Town of Islip)
Also - how long does it take?
02-01-13, 01:07 PM
#40
Diamond Cut Seven
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Pm sent.
I'll post up my process this way you guys know exactly what your getting.
Detailing explained... I don't know if any of you know what exactly detailing is but I always feel I should explain it to the customer. Detailing is not simple wash, clay and wax. True detailers such as myself take the time to bring a machine to visual perfection (99% of time better then it was from the dealer). We go over every inch of the car from top to bottom inspecting for flaws.
A detailer removes everything WITHIN POSSIBILITY, I say this because some people assume that we can remove every chip, gash or hole. Some imperfections will not come out unless completely sanded, re-primed, repainted and re-cleared. That is the job of a body shop, it's not that we don't want to, it's simply we don't have the proper tools nor the skills set.
The detailers job is to continue where most in an out body shops leave off. I take the paint and level it using machines. I remove orange peel, swirls, holograms and scratches. Simply put we make the cars paint like a mirror, and the look of WET all the time. It's also our job to restore certain things like faded parts, trim, leather and interior pieces. Lastly our job is to make sure everything is clean, vacuuming, stain removal, mold and glass cleaning are all part of the job as well. The most important aspect of a detailer is being, meticulous, thorough and simply put a perfectionist.
The Process & Time
Phase I
Decontamination aka "Prep"
1. Citrus Wash, Foam Canon, Power rinse.
Using citrus to break down all the topical elements such as bugs, dirt, tar, iron, bird droppings etc. The citrus breaks down everything gently, it also strips the old wax so the polish and new wax can be applied with out bonding conflict. 30 mins
2. Citrus Wash Scrub, Rinse.
Car was rewashed again, this time by hand to remove any fixed/stuck debris on the car such as tar or caked on dirt. 30 mins
3. Wheels, Wheel wells, +Dye (Later)
Wheels sprayed with Sonax, Scrubbed, drums cleaned inside an out. Wheel wells scrubbed clean. 45 mins - 1 hour
4. Soak, Clay.
The whole car is soaked, when the car is wet it is properly clayed with a proper selected density clay (Soft, Medium, Hard). Every body panel that is paint is completely clayed. Claying removes imbedded contaminants that wash mits cannot remove, think of it as removing dead skin like an exfoliator for your car. 45 mins - 1 hour
5. Full Strip, Bleeding, Removing elements.
Car is completely sprayed with CarPro Trix, this literally makes the paint bleed out all the metals imbedded in the paint, especially the ones that have bonded and cannot be removed even by clay. The car literally bleeds, the red bleeding color is chemicals reacting with Tar, Iron and other metallic elements. This is very good for cars that are regularly "pushed hard". CarPro trix strips away one of the most detrimental things to a car, brake dust. All cars shed brake dust, especially high performance cars with large rotors and calipers. This process removes all metallic elements off a surface and the added bonus of eating away lovely highway road tar. 30 mins
6. Final Wash, Scrub, Rinse, Full dry.
Car is again completely washed with citrus, this time scrubbing off all the chemicals applied before, leaving a perfect contaminant free surface which is rinsed and then fully dried by a touch less air dry unit. All cracks and crevices are completely blown out to no runs lines from stagnant water. 20 mins
Phase II
Polish aka "Perfection" - The hard part
7. Inspection & Diagnosis. The car is completely inspected under special lighting, the marks and paint analyzed, a list of polishes are then assorted from highest to lowest cut. Pads are selected, machines are also chosen depending on the job needed. 30 mins-1 hr.
8. Taping up loose ends. Rubber trim as well as other parts don't fare well when it comes to high speed polishers and the abrasives they lay down. As a result all the cars parts that aren't being polished are taped up using a special 3m automotive take designed for detailing.
9. Polishing begins, car panels are polished over 1 by 1, graduating polishes until the desired "flawless, mirror, wet look" is achieved. 4 - 60 hours
9. Exterior Parts Refinished
During the polishing process it's important that everything everything looks fresh, smooth and reflective. This means the taillights, brake lights, hazed head lights, window trim and other misc parts that can be perfected are. Most detailers will charge extra for this, as a perfectionist I can't do one thing an not do the rest. 45 mins - 2 hrs
10. Top Inspection
The name says it all, using Menzerna's Top inspection the car is completely sprayed down. The top inspection shows fingerprints and missed areas. It's also an AIO Cleaner. It is then wiped down, removing all excess polish leaving the car looking rich, deep and polished. 20 mins
11. Wax or Sealant (Your choice)
Hand paste wax is applied, by hand. To add depth and a richer color. This will provide months of protection from the sun, rain and other elements as well keeping the car cleaner for longer periods of time. Sealants do the same but last longer, however they don't provide as rich of a look. 1 - 1.5 hours
Phase III
Final Touches
12. Exterior dye
All parts that are rubber, plastic or composite are dyed if they are faded. They are brought back to a new deep, dark wet look. 30 mins
13. Interior strip
Completely vacuumed, rugs removed and vacuumed. All garbage thrown out. Interior/seat gaps are brushed out and vacuumed. 30 - 45 mins
14. Interior Clean
Everything sprayed with cleaner, removing grime in cup holders, bins and pockets. Tachometer and other dash parts thoroughly cleaned and wiped down. Roof is also wiped down or brushed depending on material. Seats completely brushed, wiped and reconditioned depending on material 1-2 hours
15. Interior Dye
Once everything is clean, a nice subtle protective layer is sprayed on the hard interior surfaces. This give a nice shine to the interior, note this is not crappy oil shine this is a subtle high end almost oem look, it's wet but not oily or too much shine. 45 mins - 1 hr
16. Full wipe down
Lastly, Everything is wiped down with an all natural, non petroleum base cleaner. To make sure no wax, polish or dye is on anything. The door jams and all crevices are wiped down to remove any excess dirt and/or water. 20 - 45 mins
17. Glass
Last and certainly one of the most tricky things to clean is glass. Both inside and out are wiped down with an all natural tin safe cleaner that leaves a flawless streak free finish. The glass is also polished with lusso cleaner to give it that extra shine and protection. 20 mins
I include basic engine cleaning as well, it's a simple wash rinse and scrub. However some customers do not want any water near their engine for obvious reasons. I do not clean the engine unless give specific instructions to!
Overall it usually takes around full day, if you drop it off in the morning around 9 it may be done by 9-10 pm, however I usually like to take my time and detailing you always run into simple roadblocks so I always tell my customers to drop it off on a Friday or Sat by midday and expect it back around sunday afternoon.
Joe Cipriano
Detailers Workshop
I'll post up my process this way you guys know exactly what your getting.
Detailing explained... I don't know if any of you know what exactly detailing is but I always feel I should explain it to the customer. Detailing is not simple wash, clay and wax. True detailers such as myself take the time to bring a machine to visual perfection (99% of time better then it was from the dealer). We go over every inch of the car from top to bottom inspecting for flaws.
A detailer removes everything WITHIN POSSIBILITY, I say this because some people assume that we can remove every chip, gash or hole. Some imperfections will not come out unless completely sanded, re-primed, repainted and re-cleared. That is the job of a body shop, it's not that we don't want to, it's simply we don't have the proper tools nor the skills set.
The detailers job is to continue where most in an out body shops leave off. I take the paint and level it using machines. I remove orange peel, swirls, holograms and scratches. Simply put we make the cars paint like a mirror, and the look of WET all the time. It's also our job to restore certain things like faded parts, trim, leather and interior pieces. Lastly our job is to make sure everything is clean, vacuuming, stain removal, mold and glass cleaning are all part of the job as well. The most important aspect of a detailer is being, meticulous, thorough and simply put a perfectionist.
The Process & Time
Phase I
Decontamination aka "Prep"
1. Citrus Wash, Foam Canon, Power rinse.
Using citrus to break down all the topical elements such as bugs, dirt, tar, iron, bird droppings etc. The citrus breaks down everything gently, it also strips the old wax so the polish and new wax can be applied with out bonding conflict. 30 mins
2. Citrus Wash Scrub, Rinse.
Car was rewashed again, this time by hand to remove any fixed/stuck debris on the car such as tar or caked on dirt. 30 mins
3. Wheels, Wheel wells, +Dye (Later)
Wheels sprayed with Sonax, Scrubbed, drums cleaned inside an out. Wheel wells scrubbed clean. 45 mins - 1 hour
4. Soak, Clay.
The whole car is soaked, when the car is wet it is properly clayed with a proper selected density clay (Soft, Medium, Hard). Every body panel that is paint is completely clayed. Claying removes imbedded contaminants that wash mits cannot remove, think of it as removing dead skin like an exfoliator for your car. 45 mins - 1 hour
5. Full Strip, Bleeding, Removing elements.
Car is completely sprayed with CarPro Trix, this literally makes the paint bleed out all the metals imbedded in the paint, especially the ones that have bonded and cannot be removed even by clay. The car literally bleeds, the red bleeding color is chemicals reacting with Tar, Iron and other metallic elements. This is very good for cars that are regularly "pushed hard". CarPro trix strips away one of the most detrimental things to a car, brake dust. All cars shed brake dust, especially high performance cars with large rotors and calipers. This process removes all metallic elements off a surface and the added bonus of eating away lovely highway road tar. 30 mins
6. Final Wash, Scrub, Rinse, Full dry.
Car is again completely washed with citrus, this time scrubbing off all the chemicals applied before, leaving a perfect contaminant free surface which is rinsed and then fully dried by a touch less air dry unit. All cracks and crevices are completely blown out to no runs lines from stagnant water. 20 mins
Phase II
Polish aka "Perfection" - The hard part
7. Inspection & Diagnosis. The car is completely inspected under special lighting, the marks and paint analyzed, a list of polishes are then assorted from highest to lowest cut. Pads are selected, machines are also chosen depending on the job needed. 30 mins-1 hr.
8. Taping up loose ends. Rubber trim as well as other parts don't fare well when it comes to high speed polishers and the abrasives they lay down. As a result all the cars parts that aren't being polished are taped up using a special 3m automotive take designed for detailing.
9. Polishing begins, car panels are polished over 1 by 1, graduating polishes until the desired "flawless, mirror, wet look" is achieved. 4 - 60 hours
9. Exterior Parts Refinished
During the polishing process it's important that everything everything looks fresh, smooth and reflective. This means the taillights, brake lights, hazed head lights, window trim and other misc parts that can be perfected are. Most detailers will charge extra for this, as a perfectionist I can't do one thing an not do the rest. 45 mins - 2 hrs
10. Top Inspection
The name says it all, using Menzerna's Top inspection the car is completely sprayed down. The top inspection shows fingerprints and missed areas. It's also an AIO Cleaner. It is then wiped down, removing all excess polish leaving the car looking rich, deep and polished. 20 mins
11. Wax or Sealant (Your choice)
Hand paste wax is applied, by hand. To add depth and a richer color. This will provide months of protection from the sun, rain and other elements as well keeping the car cleaner for longer periods of time. Sealants do the same but last longer, however they don't provide as rich of a look. 1 - 1.5 hours
Phase III
Final Touches
12. Exterior dye
All parts that are rubber, plastic or composite are dyed if they are faded. They are brought back to a new deep, dark wet look. 30 mins
13. Interior strip
Completely vacuumed, rugs removed and vacuumed. All garbage thrown out. Interior/seat gaps are brushed out and vacuumed. 30 - 45 mins
14. Interior Clean
Everything sprayed with cleaner, removing grime in cup holders, bins and pockets. Tachometer and other dash parts thoroughly cleaned and wiped down. Roof is also wiped down or brushed depending on material. Seats completely brushed, wiped and reconditioned depending on material 1-2 hours
15. Interior Dye
Once everything is clean, a nice subtle protective layer is sprayed on the hard interior surfaces. This give a nice shine to the interior, note this is not crappy oil shine this is a subtle high end almost oem look, it's wet but not oily or too much shine. 45 mins - 1 hr
16. Full wipe down
Lastly, Everything is wiped down with an all natural, non petroleum base cleaner. To make sure no wax, polish or dye is on anything. The door jams and all crevices are wiped down to remove any excess dirt and/or water. 20 - 45 mins
17. Glass
Last and certainly one of the most tricky things to clean is glass. Both inside and out are wiped down with an all natural tin safe cleaner that leaves a flawless streak free finish. The glass is also polished with lusso cleaner to give it that extra shine and protection. 20 mins
I include basic engine cleaning as well, it's a simple wash rinse and scrub. However some customers do not want any water near their engine for obvious reasons. I do not clean the engine unless give specific instructions to!
Overall it usually takes around full day, if you drop it off in the morning around 9 it may be done by 9-10 pm, however I usually like to take my time and detailing you always run into simple roadblocks so I always tell my customers to drop it off on a Friday or Sat by midday and expect it back around sunday afternoon.
Joe Cipriano
Detailers Workshop
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