Ever really wondered what stuff weighs???

Detail are at:&nbsp http://www.k2rd.com/FC3S/weigh.html




1989 GTUs rims (two measured): used, both include valve stems and balancing weights = 17.10# / 17.05#
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GAB 16"x7" rims: new, silver, normal center, +32mm offset = 15.20#
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1987 Turbo II stock pre-cat - used, O2 sensor attached = 13.50#
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1987 non-turbo stock exhaust manifold - used = 16.75#
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1987 Turbo II stock spare tire and rim - 24.85#
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1987 Turbo II stock turbo: used, dirty, NO lines except for rubber lines on wastegate = 21.70#
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Aluminum flywheel: used, stamped "MI" (Mueller Industry/Midway Industry?), NO counterweight, NO fasteners = 10.25#
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1987 Turbo II stock flywheels (two measured): used, NO fasteners = 27.55# / 27.40#
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1987 Turbo II stock front brake rotor: used, 10.9" (Mazda spec, NOT measured), rotor width measured at 5 different positions (5 lug positions) average 21.174mm (actual measured are 21.16mm, 21.18mm, 21.19mm, 21.18mm, 21.16mm; +/- 0.1mm) [Note: Mazda spec new is 22.00mm], used = 12.25#
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K2RD Stage 1 brake kit rotor: 12.19" x 1.25", new, two piece steel rotor with aluminum hat, fasteners (safety wired) included = 11.40#
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Racing Beat 3" downpipe: used, NO fasteners = 6.50#
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Nippon Denso AC compressor: used, dirty, no fittings but black plastic caps on valves attached = 14.90#
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1987 Turbo II stock steel hood: used, windshield spray nozzles and hoses attached, all underhood insulation and front rubber flaps attached, 5A blue paint = 51.85#
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1987 Turbo II stock aluminum hood: used, NO windshield spray nozzles or hoses, all underhood insulation and front rubber flaps attached, hood stripped (NO primer base) and repainted yellow = 29.20#


-Ted

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Ted Koseki
Technical Advisor
http://www.k2rd.com/

 

Ted, why don't you get the weight of the rear hatch and a n/a hood if you can. Maybe the doors too if you feel especially productive.

 

top

 

Welcome back Ted!

I guess you guys have the big brake kits in full production now. How about 20B FC front stabilizer bars?

I've been doing a little weighing myself:

Series 4 NA MT Tranny, used (bellhousing, tranny, shifter): 77#
Series 4 TII MT Tranny, used (bellhousing, tranny, shifter): 96#
Just shifter: about 1#

Spearco 2-248 FMIC w/end tanks: 19.5#

Evil Aviator, used, no shoes: 153# Hehehe.

Also, some front end measurements (taken quickly with a tape measure, so they are not exact):

Series 4 radiator inlet: 72 sq in
Series 5 radiator inlet: 87 sq in

Series 4 brake duct inlet: 10 sq in each
Series 5 brake duct inlet: 30 sq in each

 

Um, I don't think Ted is exactly back. Check out the dates on the posts, this topic has really been brought back from the dead.

 

What a bummer! I didn't realize that there were any old posts left after the last forum crash. I guess this means that Scott and I have to design our own stabilizer bar.

 

Weight reduction? I say "Forget it". If you removed most of what he talks about and didn't replace it with a lighter version, you'd gain maybe .2 seconds in a quarter mile run.

I'll keep my quiet, power steered, air conditioned car.

Mike

 

.1 second in the quarter for each 100lbs
and to some people, its worth it.
I know I'd be an ******* if I had a T2 w/ a steel hood. But I probably will dynamatmy car if the exhaust is too oud, but I;'m gonna have probly 2 10"s too

 

 

AC with water and PS... Air pump please ... this topic is actually usefull. I can figure out how much weight im saving by taking my steel hood and replacing it with an alluminum. But I have an n/a. Turbo would be 22 pounds. Thats worth it to me.

 

 

i rewired my FC, and got rid of about 14kg of totally unnecessary wires & other crap.
Spare tyre was 13kg
Jack and other aluminium bits were 2kg

also lost AirCon, the unbelievably thick moulded stock carpet (replaced with thin, light durable auto-marine carpet) stock battery for Odyssey 6kg battery...etc etc

managed to cut about 50kg off the weight of my car, and i won't miss any of it!

1180kg kerb weight by 220rwKW gives a quite decent power/weight ratio of 5.36kg/kw. Up there with Porsches! I LOVE weight reduction!

 

i rewired my FC, and got rid of about 14kg of totally unnecessary wires & other crap.
Spare tyre was 13kg
Jack and other aluminium bits were 2kg

also lost AirCon, the unbelievably thick moulded stock carpet (replaced with thin, light durable auto-marine carpet) stock battery for Odyssey 6kg battery...etc etc

managed to cut about 50kg off the weight of my car, and i won't miss any of it!

1180kg kerb weight by 220rwKW gives a quite decent power/weight ratio of 5.36kg/kw. Up there with Porsches! I LOVE weight reduction!

 

anyone got numbers for the rear hatch, i am soo keen to ditch it in favour of a lexan/polycarbonate one

 

 

 

89 Hatch (glass, frame, defrost wire leads, tint, no struts): 48.5#
88 TII 10AE Hatch (glass, repainted frame, wiper & motor, no struts): 50#

 

damn metrtic system lol

 

A steel hood is almost 52 pounds...that makes my cry.

 

Do you have a how-to or writeup or anything about what exactly you took out and what you replaced it with? Thats pretty good for rewiring.

 

I'm with Node, we need details.

 

SDG(sound deadening goo) under factory carpet - 25#
Fiber Impact Bars (front and rear) - 12# each
Impact Bar Mounts - 5# each, 4 total on car

These are from memory, I can't remember anything else. I made a list of some items as I removed them from my FP car. I'll get the car weighed before next season starts and post a thread about it. I'll try to remember to get my list of removed items I weighed and post them tomorrow.

 

I just pulled the window out of the rear hatch and then removed the hatch on my project. The whole thing is 50#s. The glass itself is 33#s of it. You could pull the glass and replace it with polycarb and have a total weight of around 28#s.

-billy