Ruler_Mark

iTrader: (16)

Thats their gravy maker there, all reliability mods. Get the Metal AST too.

7krayziboi

iTrader: (15)

AFR Wideband eventually I would say , nice car

Rocketeerbandit

iTrader: (3)

@mark: already installed as one of the first mods I did as per suggested.

@7krazy when I do, I'd like it to be a tach then digital.

I get the car back in friday.

Rocketeerbandit

iTrader: (3)

I'm looking into buying a racing seat for myself when I autocross. I have never bought a seat to fit my personal measurements. I looked on the seat thread but it just progressed me to ask in my thread what is suggested from experience.

I'm looking for a seat that sits a couple inches lower then stock.

I'm 6'0 with a helmet pushing 6'2

I have a 32 paint size waist.

I'm looking for something that is new and fia approved along with being light weight.

Preferably tan in color but won't steer me away completely if black.

So if anyone could direct me in a nice brand/seat lmk.

Rocketeerbandit

iTrader: (3)

Everything got done. Emissions have been removed and this car is only breathing in fresh air.


DSC04449 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr



20150117_101650_Richtone(HDR) by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr


DSC04432 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr

Johnny Kommavongsa

iTrader: (13)

Nice. What next besides finding a seat?

Rocketeerbandit

iTrader: (3)

Bushings all around front and back with new coilovers

Rocketeerbandit

iTrader: (3)

The car is at Mazda right now. The reason is because after I installed a remanufactured alternator, it seemed one of the wires to the sensor clip that plugs in the alternator was stripped out of its connector.

The power supply cable from the alternator started to burn and melt causing a plastic burn smell. I got the car towed to Mazda from Orlando to Melbourne using AAA.

So the car is getting a new Co-harness to fix the burnt current one. The cars low beams also are not working simultaneously as this all happened. I also am getting a full inspection done because I'm driving to DGRR and afterwards taking a cross country trip in the Rx-7.

So while the car is at mazda, I'm getting brand new coil packs and in the next couple weeks having mazda replace all the bushings.

Now you think I'm crazy having the dealership work on the car and pay dealership prices but I'm receiving quality work on one special mechanic who has worked on rotaries since 1990 and I'm paying for oem parts at wholesale price.

I can't wait to get my car back.

Rocketeerbandit

iTrader: (3)

I got a price of both front and rear suspension done with oem bushings. The prices are fair because I'm getting the oem parts at cost what the dealer buys themso if a part for instance F131-34-200 is listed at 417, they will sell it to me for 275. Not the retail price.

I am concern and hope I am making the right decision.

Right now it's about 4k to get the rear done by mazda and about 2100 for the front. That includes labor for about 9 hours at 115 an hour. This is upper and lower control arms complete front and back ,bushings toe links etc.

As of right now I am getting the rear done because of the clunking and taking the bulk price of the restoration done first and then do the front in a couple months.

TwinCharged RX7

iTrader: (14)

Holy crap. $6k to have the suspension redone? Thank god I can do my own work. You are getting ripped off so bad.

Rocketeerbandit

iTrader: (3)

How? Labor? Or parts? Because the parts are gonna last another 20 years longer then polyurethane. Labor? It's roughly 1k

Rmagic

iTrader: (1)

Nice car, remember seeing it at the Classic Mazda meet. Keeping it clean and keeping it simple is the way to go.

Rocketeerbandit

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Rmagic, will you be at the April 11th meet?

TwinCharged RX7

iTrader: (14)

You can buy an entire roller for $6k. I'm sorry, spending that much on bushings is just crazy, so many better ways to spend money.

Rocketeerbandit

iTrader: (3)

I can't argue that you can buy a roller for that price. I can argue how one can spend the money the way the choose to. Though I don't want to. And I focus on one project rather then multiple because I like to get them done and enjoy driving them. With getting the bushings done, I don't have to hear and feel clunking in the rear. I also like to play around and autocross and any bushing right now is better then a 23 year old bushing. Another thing to process, I daily the car everyday and every chance I get. The car is in extremely great shape inside and out. The motor especially because the previous owner installed a brand new motor with new housings, rotors, etc. I have the paper trail of it. I also plan on getting an immaculate paint job done to the car with brand new seals all over the car. Yes I did price those out with Mazda and it's about 1600 just for seals. Call me crazy but I'll be Damm sure to get the job done right and right the first time.

TwinCharged RX7

iTrader: (14)

I agree that if you are painting the car, you should get new seals. And there aren't really any options for them so you really have no choice but to pay Mazda for them.

Regarding the bushings, I'm not knocking you for doing it the right way. I'm just saying that I did my car for under $1k in parts. You can call J Auto (a vendor on here), buy all pillow ***** and all super pro bushings for under $1K.

I see that you only want OEM bushings. I can kind of understand that, but are you adding coilovers to the car? Most people on here that want OEM bushings want them for a smooth stock-like ride and then throw on a set of coilovers. Most have high spring rates compared to stock, and when you do that, very few benefits are of going stock bushings are actually felt by the driver.

Rocketeerbandit

iTrader: (3)

I do plan on getting high end coil overs like ohlins or comparable. Do I really need such a coilover? No but since my last two cars had tein flex and my miata has bc coilovers, I want to try something different. I will autocross but not to compete. More to relieve stress and to have fun with friends of mine in the region who do the same.

So you're saying that I won't benefit from stock bushings or feel a difference. But I know some of them are blown and the arm bar is squawking at me in the rear. I'm sure there will be some improvement replacing all the arms bushings and tierods.

I have talk to some guys that I know and some that I just met about polyurethane and oem bushings. Most are saying oem because of the work polyurethane has to re-greassing the bushing so they don't sqeak. To me that's another round of labor pulling them out and reinstalling them. On top of that I do live on the beach with salt air in florida with humidity and rain. They get dried out rather quickly. Not to say that rubber bushings won't but I believe that the smoother ride and replacing the bushings in need to be replace with have an impact of how the car drives after an alignment. It su ks that the oem bushings are so much but I'm doing a complete job. Once this job is finished and I install coilovers, the fun can commence with either a paintjob, pfc/ecu/commander, wheels, intercooler and exhaust. Each all tastefully done and not abnoxious.

Rocketeerbandit

iTrader: (3)

Just for fun

Stock Rx7 pull:

TwinCharged RX7

iTrader: (14)

I know you are already sold on OEM bushings. But if your major concern is about taking them apart in a few years to grease them, many people put zerk fittings in the arms (simply drill and tap a hole in each arm, maybe a half hour of work total) and you can grease them any time you want. There are a few builds on here that show this detail. You could easily still do this "right" and do it once with only spending $2k including labor. that $4k in savings could buy you a really sweet set of coilovers.

simronrx7

iTrader: (8)

I really have to agree with TwinCharged Rx7 on this one. Personally I have the oem mazda pillowball bushing and the full powerflex bushing set and I couldn't be happier. Also everyone ways says that you have to regrease the bushings and what not but from my past experience and current with these bushings, as long as your liberally grease them while installing you won't have to again. I have not gotten a single squeak from any corner. Also I have the Ohlins DFV which you will definitely be happy with.
If it was a deal of a couple hundred or hell even a thousand bucks I could see where you're coming from but I just think you could use that money for other things.
That being said, it is your money and you are free to spend it however you want��

Rocketeerbandit

iTrader: (3)

This is what I was planning on doing...


This bill is for front and rear w/o labor which is about 9 hours or 1100.

20150329_175203 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr


20150329_174731 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr

20150329_174803 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr




Everything in the boxes

Andre The Giant

iTrader: (21)

Thought you said you were having the bushings replaced? Those prices are for all new control arms front and rear.

Rocketeerbandit

iTrader: (3)

@andre, what about the last picture bottom left on the arm that's a bushing that can't be replaced but only by getting the new control arm? Or the upper arm in the same picture to the middle right the bushing is welded in the arm

TwinCharged RX7

iTrader: (14)

I think you are talking about the ball joints. If they aren't worn out just take off the boots, clean out the old grease, re-pack with new grease and new boots. I think the part numbers in the pictures are actually just the rubber boots.

But yes, they are not replaceable. However, I have heard some people have figured out how to replace them. But I haven't seen a DYI with ball joint part numbers (not from mazda, they are some kind of bolt in piece from another car I think).

Rocketeerbandit

iTrader: (3)

I preemptively made a quote for just the bushings and I think the Miata has bolt in ball joints. I dont think these quotes include the trailing arms or toe links.
Front:
2015-03-29_07-41-47 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr


Rear:
2015-03-29_07-42-10 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr