My love RoX7e
05-10-14, 06:27 PM
#57
Fuel: I pulled the fuel line and cranked it, gas everywhere.
Spark: I connected the spark plug disabled the fuel pump and cranked it.
Air: when I was defouling the engine I have good pulses.
A few things that are off is the knock sensor, oil level sensor, and oil press or sensor. I am certain the oil level and pressure sensor are in the right place but I'm not so sure of the knock. Also the is a plug unused which I believe is the coolant sensor.
Spark: I connected the spark plug disabled the fuel pump and cranked it.
Air: when I was defouling the engine I have good pulses.
A few things that are off is the knock sensor, oil level sensor, and oil press or sensor. I am certain the oil level and pressure sensor are in the right place but I'm not so sure of the knock. Also the is a plug unused which I believe is the coolant sensor.
05-11-14, 05:35 PM
#61
you should be getting fuel pressure while the key is on because the fuel pump is activated with just the accessory circuit. however, you should not be getting fuel into the engine until you start cranking.
if that's happening, I would say one of your injectors is stuck open causing it to flood.
if that's happening, I would say one of your injectors is stuck open causing it to flood.
07-11-14, 12:14 PM
#69
Ok so I'm to a point where I have the motor rebuilt (bought a 99spec block complete) and put back in. I used all my 93 accessories knock sensor, oil level sensor, and crank angel sensors. I unplugged the ecu and did all the wiring while the motor was out of the car now I have some wires I'm not sure where they go. The issue I'm having is that I'm not getting spark. What am I missing can comes me shed some light on the situation.
07-11-14, 03:49 PM
#70
i think that white plug is the one that plugs in behind the evaporator up on the firewall (cabin side) near the firewall hole for the engine harness. if so, then you definitely need to connect it. that could be the issue.
and also, i havent had a stock ECU in a long time, but i thought they did not kick the fuel pump on with the key ON, but only during cranking and running, and the fuel pressure holds while the car is off. i could be wrong.
do you have the FSM? you need to get it.
use the test port to see if the fuel pump is working, then verify that the injectors are firing when you turn the key the START, then verify that you have spark.
turn the key to the ON position, then jumper the F/P and GND pins in that diagnosis connector and see if the fuel pump turns on.
RTFM, as they say.
and also, i havent had a stock ECU in a long time, but i thought they did not kick the fuel pump on with the key ON, but only during cranking and running, and the fuel pressure holds while the car is off. i could be wrong.
do you have the FSM? you need to get it.
use the test port to see if the fuel pump is working, then verify that the injectors are firing when you turn the key the START, then verify that you have spark.
turn the key to the ON position, then jumper the F/P and GND pins in that diagnosis connector and see if the fuel pump turns on.
RTFM, as they say.
07-11-14, 05:20 PM
#73
i do not have that in my car. it looks like an extension of the plug that i mentioned that had something tapped (tapped for something like RPM signal or power):
the plug up against the firewall BEHIND the evap/blower area, which you can't actually see unless you're laying in there upside down. it connects the dash/gauges to the engine harness and transmission sensors, and it includes a couple ground wires (if it's the one i'm thinking of).
reach up behind the blower motor/evap area up against the firewall and see if you can find a female match to that white plug you're holding. it will be on the engine harness right before it goes through the firewall into the engine bay.
IIRC that little black box in your picture is the unit that was installed via the tech service bulletin that runs the fans after you turn the car off.
the plug up against the firewall BEHIND the evap/blower area, which you can't actually see unless you're laying in there upside down. it connects the dash/gauges to the engine harness and transmission sensors, and it includes a couple ground wires (if it's the one i'm thinking of).
reach up behind the blower motor/evap area up against the firewall and see if you can find a female match to that white plug you're holding. it will be on the engine harness right before it goes through the firewall into the engine bay.
IIRC that little black box in your picture is the unit that was installed via the tech service bulletin that runs the fans after you turn the car off.
07-11-14, 06:19 PM
#74
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HI there,
Spark issue- check:
1. do you have 12V at the wires of each coil with the key on & in the crank/start position - Black wire with a red tracer.
2. do you have continuity in the wires from the coil to the ignitor?
So thats from the other (signal) wire at the coil (light blue/ white - TRAILING REAR; red - TRAILING FRONT; Yellow and light blue - LEADING) to there respective positions at the ignitor(noting they CHANGE COLOUR) - TR is light green/ white tracer; TF is light green/red tracer; L is light green/ blue tracer all at the ignitor plug.
Also check for 12V with key on at the ignitor at the black/ white tracer wire.
You can then check the continuity from the ignitor plugs other wires (Brown/ Black; Brown; Light Blue/ Green; and Light blue/ black all back to the ECU as well to there respective pins on the ECU - 1J; 1G; 1H and 1T.
Let us know how you get on.
Rusty
Spark issue- check:
1. do you have 12V at the wires of each coil with the key on & in the crank/start position - Black wire with a red tracer.
2. do you have continuity in the wires from the coil to the ignitor?
So thats from the other (signal) wire at the coil (light blue/ white - TRAILING REAR; red - TRAILING FRONT; Yellow and light blue - LEADING) to there respective positions at the ignitor(noting they CHANGE COLOUR) - TR is light green/ white tracer; TF is light green/red tracer; L is light green/ blue tracer all at the ignitor plug.
Also check for 12V with key on at the ignitor at the black/ white tracer wire.
You can then check the continuity from the ignitor plugs other wires (Brown/ Black; Brown; Light Blue/ Green; and Light blue/ black all back to the ECU as well to there respective pins on the ECU - 1J; 1G; 1H and 1T.
Let us know how you get on.
Rusty
07-11-14, 06:25 PM
#75
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And on the 'random' white plug .....can you post up the colours of ALL the wires and there positions on the plug.
AND are the wires colours the same on the other side of the 'extension'?
Rusty
AND are the wires colours the same on the other side of the 'extension'?
Rusty