Wrathritic

Wiring the Relay? I have read multiply read ups on this, yes.
........RELAY.........87.......................... ................................BUTTON
............................|..................... ...................................CUT....3....2.. ..1
...Ground...86---87a---85..To first pin(s2000 button).o..o....o....o....o
............................|
...........................30
RELAY- I know that my Spliced wire and Cut wire from Ignition go into 87, 87a or 30

1 Which goes into which, and what do I do with the one left over?

BUTTON- I know that the first 2 are cut
#3 goes to ground
#2 goes to a Battary Pos. +(IGN. ON)
#1 goes to 85 on RELAY

2 Where can I found a Battary Positive and Ground?
I read people are using cruise control, I have a R1 so there is no cruise control. I read I should check wires from harness to see if there is only power on during IGN. ON. I would rather know if someone has done it and that it works.(I know many have installed this) Any help would be great.


I hope this is not too confusing. I just don't want to cut wrong wires because there is very little room to fix mistakes. This is my first wiring experience.
Thanks Ryan

Links:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...000+push+start
http://www.fd3s.net/start_button_installation.html

Bob H

iTrader: (10)

Ok,
I want to piggy back on this question. I wired up the relay and was doing testing on the relay before the S2000 button install,(to eliminate problems while troubleshooting).
I have the S2000 button installed and operating properly,(can hear the relay click when its pushed). Now, if I isolate the switch and just operate the relay via a 12v input for the same post,(that the button is normally operated by), - it operates the same, but is not turning the starter when its supposed to.
I can get the starter to turn anytime pwr is applied to the relay with the key in the OFF or ACC position. But as soon as I out it to the RUN position - it won't turn over. If I put the key in the ACC position, and start turning over the motor, then put the key in the RUN position - it stays cranking and then starts.......??

Again, the S2000 button only works when the key is in the Run position - where it supposed to work. However, the relay setup will only work when the key is in any position but run....,(well, not start either).

Setup on the wiring is 86 = ground
87 goes to the black w/blue stripe harness side
30 is tapped into the black w/green wire
85,(86 on my relay), is to the button - and was the one I was sending 12v to.
Any ideas? I can get it to start, but not the way its supposed to.
-Bob

Bob H

iTrader: (10)

Anyone?

1.3Ldreamcar

iTrader: (1)

Wrathritic your from winnipeg! You should definitly show this mod to me when you get it all done! I was thinking about running it on my FD.

PandazRx-7

iTrader: (18)

You can always use the slots on the fuse box for either a battery positive or ignition positive. I think the one on the left is battery and the right one is ignition. Be sure to use a fuse.

As for ground, you can just find a spot behind the kick panel to tap with a screw.

I used this site years back when I did this mod...

http://www.fd3s.net/start_button_installation.html

RedX7

One of my best friends has an S2000, and he would always get so pissed when he saw a non-S2000 with a starter button in it. Not really sure why though. I'm thinking about putting one in my car just to mess with him.

Bob H

iTrader: (10)

Well, it turns out it wasn't the wiring - it worked great. The car itself is crap. So I finally bypassed the ignition wiring and on the output of the relay,(87a), I ran a wire directly to the starter solenoid. Works like a charm every time. Ignition switch is fine,(checked it with a meter), wiring was fine - I already bypassed the fuel pump relay, and checked everything. There is a relay somewhere internal to the car that is robbing power - the starter solenoid was only getting 6-7 volts when I had 12v at the key area....
Something to consider.

ArmitageGVR4

iTrader: (13)

That's funny because even Camrys come from the factory with push button start these days.

SleepeR1st

iTrader: (1)

Do you have to have the key in the ignition in order for the push button to work? I dont understand why you would want/need that?

Hitokiri_Gensai

iTrader: (2)

so people cant sit down and start your car and drive away? xD thatd be my reasoning

ForcedFed

They key is only really necessary in order to unlock the stearing column, unless you disable the stearing locks. You can set up any push button started so that you no longer need the key (again depending if you want to disable the steering locks or not) and that just pushing the button doesnt start the car. You dont need to go this far but I helped a friend do togles in his S10. They had to but in a certain order then he had another toggle that did the starter. So unless you knew which toggles where where the only way to start the truck was to tear it appart or tow it.

Section8

iTrader: (6)

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but i'm having issues with this. I'm installing a Longacre start button in my track car, and I've followed the directions from http://www.fd3s.net/start_button_installation.html but I still can't get the button to do anything. My button only has two posts, so my only deviation was that I didn't tap into the cruise control power, do I need to do that? I"m an electrical idiot :o

Bob H

iTrader: (10)

We need some more info - what wires did you tap into, etc.. Otherwise we will be chasing our tails as well.
Let us know the color of each wire you tapped into, what relay post, etc... and we can help diagnose your issue.
-Bob

Section8

iTrader: (6)

Bob,

I followed the directions on fd3s.net to a T. I tapped the Black/Green wire and cut the Black/Blue wire.

The only thing I didn't do per those instructions was tap into the cruise control power line. i'm using a 30amp relay, couldn't find a 40amp.

Section8

iTrader: (6)

one other thing, my gauge cluster is currently not hooked up, i have everything ripped out and i was testing the setup before i mounted it permanently. Does the gauge cluster need to be plugged in for the engine to turn over?

Cgotto6

iTrader: (8)

No. Just as long as the source where you are pulling the 12v is actually hot you should be fine if you wired it up as the instructions state. I did this on my car and tested it before putting the cluster back in. I didnt pull power from the cruise though, I have added a couple aftermarket fues blocks so I just ran an new circuit from that so I knew for sure it was getting power.

Section8

iTrader: (6)

Thanks Cgotto6 - I just went out and play with it some more and found a blown 40 amp fuse - B1 in the main fuse box in the engine bay. I replaced the fuse and tried again (this time pushing the clutch pedal which i was forgetting before) and it immediately blew the B1 40amp fuse again. WTF? I mean looking at the electrical schematic, I should be able to hot wire the car by touching the black/blue and black/green wires together right? So why is this not working? Ugh.

Section8

iTrader: (6)

Here's what I have wired up now:

button post 1 (0) - 85 relay
Button post 2 (no marking) ground

black/blue (cut) wire - 30 relay
black/green(tapped) wire - 87 relay

Ground wire - 86 relay

Picked up a couple more 40amp fuses for the B1 fuse, but I haven't tried it again.

Bob H

iTrader: (10)

Sounds like somethings not wired correctly - here is what I had:
Setup on the wiring is 86 = ground
87 goes to the black w/blue stripe harness side
30 is tapped into the black w/green wire
85,(86 on my relay), is to the button - and was the one I was sending 12v to.

So for yours, Post 1 is 85 ,(my 86), should be the 12V hot w/key
Post 2 should = 86 = ground

#30 should be going to the tapped wire - black/green,(remember, some years are different colors) - you said you CUT the wire. I put it to the TAPPED wire

87 should be going to the cut wire - black w/blue stripe - you said you tapped it. Maybe you got them backwards? Take a look at the schematic on the fd3s.net site - you'll see the tapped wire is the black/green, and the cut is the Black w/(L) which I think L= blue

Give that a try - I sold my car w/the push button a while ago - but never had any issues after I fixed it. I tried several iterations of both the wires cut and tapped - I say switch it out and see if that fixes it. Otherwise you may be sending power somewhere you don't want - don't keep blowing expensive fuses!
-Bob

Section8

iTrader: (6)

Bob,

Thanks for the reply. I'll try swapping the wires from the ingition harness tomorrow and see what happens.

I am still confused about the post 1 12v (85) - Do I need to tap that into a 12v hot wire from somewhere or can i leave it as it is?

re: the different years - my car is a 93 - i wasn't aware that some years had different colors.

-Joe

Bob H

iTrader: (10)

You should have a 12v key hot source to the button, then from the other side of the button to post 85. The relay is the ground point- ie 86 on the relay. I was confused with you post 1 post 2. You were talking about the push button not the relay. Remember, the start button is just a temporary switch to provide 12v to the relay so it can engage to pass power from your "tapped" wire to the "cut" wire.

Section8

iTrader: (6)

Bob,

Gotcha, I think it's clearing up in the cloudy marsh that is my brain now. Thanks for helping me out - hopefully i can make this work today!

Section8

iTrader: (6)

Bob,

thanks again for your help. I just needed to run the 12v to the button. I had to tap into the air bag fuse because the cruise wire wasn't hot when the switch was set to ACC or ON, but as soon as I did that she cranked.

Thanks guys! Now i just need to put it together and hope to never again have to do electrical.

Monkman33

iTrader: (28)

I try to ALWAYS avoid tapping into anything with the airbag system. Just a rule of thumb when I was a car audio installer. Even if it is just the power or the ground.

Section8

iTrader: (6)

I would normally totally agree with you, but this is my track car and the airbag (and original steering wheel) have long since been removed