dradon03

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys, finally got my car all back together.

First had a fuel leak was fixed, then oil leak fixed (Thank you Marco and JP)
Now I got a coolant leak seemingly from the front driver side of the car. When I left I put in 8 litrers of coolant (water coolant). It was ok no coolant light nothing.

Went to drive it home and then after 20 minutes the coolant alarm came on the temp gauge was dead middle but you know how reliable that is. So I added 2 liters of water but there was still very little pressure in the rad hoses and yet the T-stat housing is toped and the AST is 3/4's. I checked the bottom of the rad (Fluidyne) and the fill screw was tight. The rad hoses are new hoses and the AST is a Fighters Garage unit.

Lastly on the way home the windows stopped working. I got one window which is stuck down and the other window will not go down. This would have to be a fuse problem?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks guys,

Alex

ProjectD

iTrader: (15)

could you be a little more detailed about the location of the leak? and is your FD right or lefthand drive? The windo problem sounds like it MAY be crappy grounds.

silverTRD

iTrader: (36)

can you elaborate on what you did with your cooling system? i.e. removal of hoses, change of radiator...? it could be any number of things. brittle hose, bad or loose hose clamp. one thing my uncle always told me( a master vette mechanic ) said if you have a leak, start at the top and work your way down. so in our case start at the throttle body coolant hose, then ast and wp and go from there.

3rd Gen Jeremy

Sounds like you've got two problems. I agree that the windows sound like a ground problem. That's hard to pinpoint.

The coolant question is pretty easy ( unless you're actually seeing coolant on the ground). You burped the system. If you read in the FSM about how to fill up the coolant, you're supposed to top off the filler neck. Start the car and let it get up to temp. Then you turn the car off and you'll hear some gurgling. Once you let the car cool down, open the filler neck, it will be low. Fill it back up and you should be ok, continue to check it before driving it for the next few days just to be safe but that's how it's supposed to work. If the alarm won't go off, it might be the connector right next to the alternator on the left side if you're looking from the front. I cut mine out of the loop and connected the wires with a butt connector.

You shouldn't hear the alarm once you get the air out of the system.

dradon03

iTrader: (2)

I completely removed the motor from my car. Changed the stock rad for a Fluidyne. New radiator hoses, new AST and the coolant hoses I could see were damaged I replaced.

The throttle body coolant hose has been blocked off.

About the grounds, I am admittedly the most un-knowledgable person when it comes to vehicule electronics systems. What would I need to do to fix this ground issue?

Thanks for the help,

Alex

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

For the power window issue: first check that you didn't accidentally bump that switch that will disable the windows. It's nice when there's a simple "oops" to fix. If that doesn't help, check all your fuses, both inside the cabin and in the engine bay. If you've got a blown fuse, replace it and try to replicate the problem: roll down the drivers window only, then roll it back up. Repeat the process for the passenger window. Then try working both windows at once. With electrical systems, all you need is a simple plan for testing things; just rule out one thing at a time.

-s-