WSCrusader112

I have been trolling on this forum for a while now and have been looking for 7's for sale. I found one in my state. It's black R1 5 speed. with around 60k on it. Pretty much all stock excpet for a 3 inch exhaust that was on the car before the seller even owned it. I have a question. While the engine is turned on it doenst flow smoothly like normal cars do. It sorta sutters. It sounds like my friends wrx engine.. But i am just nervous is it supposed to be smoth or is the little jump in the engine every couple sec normal at idle? I have never owned a rotary so I dunno if this is how they are or this engine is just shot. Please respond. Thanks

books

iTrader: (8)

Is that the car on EBAY?

The engine should run smoothly, unless it is ported. In my opinion rotaries run smoother than piston engines. You should at least have a copression check done. Bring a vacuum gauge with you and check the vacuum as well as the boost.
Perform a search on this forum as well as some other sites to see what you should look for when buying these cars.

Here's a starter link for you. http://www.robrobinette.com/buyaused.htm

nopistons94

wow a guy who didnt flame a newbie , books is definitly right though , take it to a shop and get a compression check , if all checks out buy the car and enjoy , if not screw it and keep looking , bottom line


-joe

WSCrusader112

nopistons94 Newbie? I have been here since july of 2002 you've been here sicne feb of '03 lol.

What should the compression read for me to know if it is adequate to buy or just to look over?

nopistons94

how long have you owned a rx-7

nopistons94

oh 80 is lowest you want on both rotors , anything above that is better

RestoTII

i didn't realize owning an rx7 was a requirement to be ruled out of the 'newb' title. I don't own an Rx7 currently, but I'm also right on the edge of picking up a 93 in the next couple days. Suppose I might be a newb then? *shrug*

In any case.... compression checks on a car without a fresh engine and paperwork to back it up are always a good idea. Also, check for fluid smells under the hood, and if possible, take it for a ride and ease towards 3k rpm to check that it doesn't stutter at 3k. Other than that, I'm kind of new into the third gen's too, so good luck!

nopistons94

if you dont own a ****** car how are you not new when you get it ? its not that hard to understand if you dont own something and you just get it your new , i dont know whatever , im bored

WSCrusader112

Thanks for the replies. When You start the car up in neutral it went up to 3k RPM Sometimes he told me, but if you start it in 1st Gear it will stay at about 2k RPM Does this mean anything?

nopistons94

if you start it while in 1st then put it to neutral as opposed to starting it in neutral and staying there you mean ?

WSCrusader112

Hmm yea like if the car is off and not in gear it will usually rev to 3k... But if the car is off and it is in 1st gear it will rev to 2k then go to normal RPM's.. Ever hear of this or no?

nopistons94

only thing i can think of is that the throttle body opens a little bit when its in gear which stops the catalyic converter warmup which is supposed to happen when you start the car , besides that i wouldnt know anything else to be the reason for this



-joe

books

iTrader: (8)

When started cold the Accelerated Warm up System (AWS) causes the engine to idle at 3k. If you gently tap the throttle the rpms should drop. I have read somewhere on this forum that starting in gear somehow affects the initial idle.

books

iTrader: (8)

WSCrusader112, I sent you a pm.

fastcarfreak

Wow, nopistons94 is calling people newbs and he doesnt even know what the Accelerated Warmup System (AWS) is. Funny.

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

I was under the impression that (within normal limits) the actual #s don't matter that much...what really makes a difference is how close together they are...ie, if there's a major diff in the compression between the 2 rotors, or if it's virtually identical...?

oh and as a side note, for the "newbies" or "about to own rx7s" ppl...wutever you wanna call urself...ive had my FD for over a year now, ive been on the forum for over 6 months, and ill tell ya, ill be a newbie for a VERY long time...

one of the guys said it beautifully in another thread... taking care of an FD is like an art... there's soo much that goes into it (not to mention rediculous amounts of money)...and an unbelievably amount of down time (actually driving it half the time you own it is very typical lol). so I say that kind of like a warning...i hope you guys know what you're getting into...

so dont get all caught up in being called a newbie...screw that. my screen name is FDNewbie cuz i respect the car and the madd knowledge and skills a lot of the ppl on this forum have, in comparison to me. rather be a dumb newbie and keep my FD runnin then some hotshot i know wut's up guy on the forum and go through 3 motors in 4 months

nopistons94

hah well put man , but you know the ratio has to be higher motor and less month , like 5:1 , 5 motors 1 month

take care

WSCrusader112

The only car I want is an RX7 and it sucks for me to be contimplating buying one that i have finally found.

wael.el-dasher@efini.net

Maybe I can help you with it. I am in Connecticut, close to New Haven. I can walk you through it and come with you to inspect the car if you like...no charge...well maybe a cup of coffee and call it even.

Let me know

cheers

W

RestoTII

I'd say listen to wael here.... and don't fret it you don't see what you expect. Alot of the problems might be able to be fixed, and some might not be able to fixed with any amount of money.
As long as you know what to look for and what to look out for, you should be alright in the car search (which might be over by now).

And in reply to nopistons, first of all... creative name (shared by about 1000 *newbs* on this site). and second..... calling people a newb for asking questions like this is quite stupid and very ignorant since you don't even know who they are, what they've owned, who they know, etc. I mean hell... I live two blocks away from you, ***** you mom out every weekend and could very well own 6 rx7's for what the other girls bring in alone. You mom, on the other hand, brings in enough for an oil change at jiffy lube every 4 years. But anyways, keep trying, and maybe intelligence will find it's way through you...

johnchabin

iTrader: (2)

If you want to greatly improve your chances of getting a decent car, you might want to take him up on this offer. It would be a well spent cup of coffee...

In fact, you might just buy his car.

Senseny

Don't be disappointed if you don't buy the first FD you see or drive. I actually had a deal for my R-1 that kept falling through and in the meantime I looked at something like 7 cars and didn't bite. Also talked to literally dozens of dealers trying to get the right person to flip one to me. Finally the deal went through for the one I wanted. Point is, don't settle for the first one you come across. Be prepared to travel a little and make sure to have as much checked out as possible before you buy (minimum compression and boost). Good luck and happy hunting.

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

Kind of an understatement if you ask me... when I was buyin my FD, it was a nationwide search, straight up. It's real hard to find FDs that haven't literally been raped. I took my good sweet time, and travelled wut...1000 miles or so to get my FD. Found it in Miami, spent 2 days there.. a lil rest, enjoyin the city, all while i got the car meticulously checked out...cuz you wanna make sure you get what you're payin for.

so that's basically what I'm sayin. FDs are race cars, simply put. if someone tells you their FD was owned by some old lady and driven only on sundays, and has never seen rain, MOVE ON cuz that's bull. We have like what...2 women on the forum? lol. These are overwhelmingly guy cars that ppl drive to race every chance you get. and that's what you're trying to look out for. so if you short-change yourself in how close the car has to be, or how much you'll spend on checkin it out before you buy it, chances are the few bucks you saved are gonna cost ya much more in the long run

Roar 629

ask zerobanger, he is on the board. i think he's thinkin bout sellin his black on black FD with water injection.

Senseny

FDNewbie, no arguement with your point. I was stating minimums. Also it is easy to get discouraged. I didn't go thousands of miles to get my R-1 but I did go 3+ hours and I was getting more and more willing to travel further and further distances. I also got very lucky because although I had the car checked I did not get a rotary mechanic to look at the car--I didn't do proper homework going in and I didn't understand really what I was getting into. Thankfully repairs only cost me a $1000 (oil pan and a couple other things) and I got all the general reliability mods right away. So I would say, count on a tough search for the car and then have some money put aside for reliability mods.