Clutch Master and Slave Cylinder *Writeup*
04-23-06, 12:06 PM
#1
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Clutch Master and Slave Cylinder *Writeup*
This whole process cost me about 24 Dollars.
Both rebuild kits from Advanced Autoparts cost $21
and DOT3 brake fluid $3
Removal-
On top of the tranny is the clutch slave cylinder. Its bolted down by 2 12mm bolts.
Follow the the rubber line off of the slave cylinder to the metal bracket on the firewall, and pull the clip off of the bracket and undo the bolt/coupler from the metal line with a 10mm wrench, and pull it through.
If that doesnt work due to corrosion, then undo the bolt/coupler off the clutch master cylinder with a 10mm wrench.
mastercylindermetalline.JPG
Once you have the slcave cylinder out the easiest way to disassymble the slave cylinder is to pull off the boot.
Hook the metal line up to and air compressor and it will push the piston out of the cylinder. Becareful cause fluid is in the line and with an air compressor fluid will fly everywhere. The best way with out getting fluid everywhere is to blow though the line. Dont blow hard enough out make your head hurt, it may take a couple of try's.When you get everything out sheck the bushinf on the piston and make sure it isn't torn.
Next- Removing clutch master cylinder and Disassymbly
Underneath the dash behind the clutch pedal there are 2 12mm nuts that you can break loos with a wrench.
clutchmasternuts.JPG
With all the lines removed from the previous steps the clutch master cylinder is easy to remove. With the 2 nuts un screwed the clutch master cylinder will just pull right out.
clutchmastercylinder.JPG
In order to disassymble the clutch master cylinder you need to pull the clip out.
A little plastic piston will pop out due to the spring inside the cylinder. Just pull that out.
Now you can do 2 things to get the spring and the bushing out you can use an air compressor(if you do that put it up against where the steel line goes and besure to put the cap on the resivour, or you can slide it out by moving the cylinder back and fourth hitting the open end up against you hand) besure to check the bushing to see if it is torn.
clutchmasterdis1.JPG
Assymbly-
On the clutch slave cylinder everything slides in as shown
1.JPG
Puting the clutch slave cylinder back into your car is the exact opposite of of taking it out. Run the steel line first if you had to do what i did and put it through the bracket on the firewall. Be sure to get the boot with the metal tip up against the metal bracket that is mounted on the tranny. and then bolt it down.
Same thing goes with the clutch master cylinder. The clip is alittle tricky cause the plastic piston is pushing up on the clip due to the spring in side. Once you get the 2 nuts on tight under your clutch pedal the re connect your steel line and add DOT3 brake fluid in your resivour and start the bleeding process.
Well i think thats about it, I hope this helps out some of you haveing clutch problems
Both rebuild kits from Advanced Autoparts cost $21
and DOT3 brake fluid $3
Removal-
On top of the tranny is the clutch slave cylinder. Its bolted down by 2 12mm bolts.
Follow the the rubber line off of the slave cylinder to the metal bracket on the firewall, and pull the clip off of the bracket and undo the bolt/coupler from the metal line with a 10mm wrench, and pull it through.
If that doesnt work due to corrosion, then undo the bolt/coupler off the clutch master cylinder with a 10mm wrench.
mastercylindermetalline.JPG
Once you have the slcave cylinder out the easiest way to disassymble the slave cylinder is to pull off the boot.
Hook the metal line up to and air compressor and it will push the piston out of the cylinder. Becareful cause fluid is in the line and with an air compressor fluid will fly everywhere. The best way with out getting fluid everywhere is to blow though the line. Dont blow hard enough out make your head hurt, it may take a couple of try's.When you get everything out sheck the bushinf on the piston and make sure it isn't torn.
Next- Removing clutch master cylinder and Disassymbly
Underneath the dash behind the clutch pedal there are 2 12mm nuts that you can break loos with a wrench.
clutchmasternuts.JPG
With all the lines removed from the previous steps the clutch master cylinder is easy to remove. With the 2 nuts un screwed the clutch master cylinder will just pull right out.
clutchmastercylinder.JPG
In order to disassymble the clutch master cylinder you need to pull the clip out.
A little plastic piston will pop out due to the spring inside the cylinder. Just pull that out.
Now you can do 2 things to get the spring and the bushing out you can use an air compressor(if you do that put it up against where the steel line goes and besure to put the cap on the resivour, or you can slide it out by moving the cylinder back and fourth hitting the open end up against you hand) besure to check the bushing to see if it is torn.
clutchmasterdis1.JPG
Assymbly-
On the clutch slave cylinder everything slides in as shown
1.JPG
Puting the clutch slave cylinder back into your car is the exact opposite of of taking it out. Run the steel line first if you had to do what i did and put it through the bracket on the firewall. Be sure to get the boot with the metal tip up against the metal bracket that is mounted on the tranny. and then bolt it down.
Same thing goes with the clutch master cylinder. The clip is alittle tricky cause the plastic piston is pushing up on the clip due to the spring in side. Once you get the 2 nuts on tight under your clutch pedal the re connect your steel line and add DOT3 brake fluid in your resivour and start the bleeding process.
Well i think thats about it, I hope this helps out some of you haveing clutch problems
Last edited by rx7b13; 04-23-06 at 12:22 PM.
