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So you're thinking about $2800 for a draw through? You're in Camden territory.
The Camden kit for a carbed 12a looks to be drawthrough too and costs $2995. That would indicate to me that I'm doing alright price-wise. The wastegate was really the only offbrand part I opted for, so I'd hope that performance would be comparable with the Camden kit.
The Camden kit for a carbed 12a looks to be drawthrough too and costs $2995. That would indicate to me that I'm doing alright price-wise. The wastegate was really the only offbrand part I opted for, so I'd hope that performance would be comparable with the Camden kit.
what are your turbo specs??? The compressor outlet should be 2" for the intake manifold to accept it correctly, and 2.75" on the inlet for the carb adapter to fit...
what are your turbo specs??? The compressor outlet should be 2" for the intake manifold to accept it correctly, and 2.75" on the inlet for the carb adapter to fit...
Outlet is 2", inlet is 3"
I am confused on why this would matter much though unless the differences were extreme.
The measurement of the outlet on the carb -> turbo manifold is escaping me, but I was planning on just getting an 3" to X hose reducer.
I could see there being a problem using a reducer on the turbo -> intake manifold, as there'll be suspended gas in the mixture at that point... I believe they're pretty close to the same size though, so I don't think that part will be an issue.
I am confused on why this would matter much though unless the differences were extreme.
The measurement of the outlet on the carb -> turbo manifold is escaping me, but I was planning on just getting an 3" to X hose reducer.
I could see there being a problem using a reducer on the turbo -> intake manifold, as there'll be suspended gas in the mixture at that point... I believe they're pretty close to the same size though, so I don't think that part will be an issue.
Is there a problem I'm not aware of?
Have you seen what it looks like assembled?
Look how closely everything fits together... adapters here and there, mixed with a different exhaust manifold is going to give you headaches...
Look how closely everything fits together... adapters here and there, mixed with a different exhaust manifold is going to give you headaches...
I haven't seen it before and thanks for the picture! I was trying to find a picture of how the kit looks assembled and I could not seem to find one.
To be honest, I'll have to test fit the headers to see how high and at what angle the T4 flange is. It might take some creative routing, but I'm pretty confident that it'll be doable.
As I understand it, drawthrough doesn't require the turbo to be seated extremely close to the intake, though that most likely would be maximally efficient.
You can see two examples of drawthrough setups below to kinda see what I mean by the system not being particularly sensitive to the distance from the intake.
In the case of the mazda rotary, I can tell you that the distance the that fuel has to travel negatively affects starting and throttle response a ton.
a long run=hard starts and a difficult to dial in carb.
Hmm, okay, those things make sense. I'll definitely aim for the shortest run possible. I just have to wait for my parts to get here to find out exactly how short that will be.
I should find out in about a week when the header gets here
I appreciate you sharing what you've learned from your setup! Should be really helpful once I get started.
In addition, I've got the green light on permanent garage space starting halfway through January which is fantastic. If funds and everything line up at that point, I'll probably start a build log.
Admittedly, he was discussing poor throttle response and the car running badly, but honestly, if he got that running then the one or two inches I was gonna add to fit the turbo should be fine haha
Hmm, okay, those things make sense. I'll definitely aim for the shortest run possible. I just have to wait for my parts to get here to find out exactly how short that will be.
I should find out in about a week when the header gets here
I appreciate you sharing what you've learned from your setup! Should be really helpful once I get started.
In addition, I've got the green light on permanent garage space starting halfway through January which is fantastic. If funds and everything line up at that point, I'll probably start a build log.
Admittedly, he was discussing poor throttle response and the car running badly, but honestly, if he got that running then the one or two inches I was gonna add to fit the turbo should be fine haha
in the same thread he shortened the run and got much better results too
in the same thread he shortened the run and got much better results too
Yeah, I believe it. I couldn't find where he did that, but immediately when I saw that setup, I was thinking "there's no way that can work very well..."
Yeah, I was reading more about positioning of everything and from the sounds of it, you should have the air/fuel flowing down and never up. My setup is gonna probably be pretty similar to yours, just with an extra probably 2 inches from the carb manifold to the turbo and the turbo to the intake manifold.
My point with that picture was mainly that if he got that setup to run, and that setup kinda goes against what seems to be the good drawthrough practices, then my setup with no more than a few inches between the turbo and the intake manifold should probably work pretty good.
I think your biggest issue will be hood clearance with the rotary works manifold. It parks the turbo higher, and more forward than the factory manifold does.
the stock s5 turbo and manifold should be damned close, and the s4 closer. Plus the s4 has a carbon seal already, and is dirt cheap.
I think your biggest issue will be hood clearance with the rotary works manifold. It parks the turbo higher, and more forward than the factory manifold does.
the stock s5 turbo and manifold should be damned close, and the s4 closer. Plus the s4 has a carbon seal already, and is dirt cheap.
Yeah, you maybe right. I was trying to think of what my options would be to fix that. I'd prefer not to ditch the hood...
I was thinking a low profile or even normal CAI would probably fit.
I'll keep those in mind if this doesn't pan out. I wish I had thought about those manifolds before buying my rotaryworks :P Oh well. In the end, I think it's gonna work one way or another.
Read this closely, they cover the fuel drain on the turbo.
Keep in mind this was for the Elford Turbo, and not the Cartech, but they are extremely similar, and performed almost identically.
I really appreciate the information!
I found what you were talking about with the drain valve in the article. The symptoms sound pretty annoying with fuel building up in the compressor. I wonder if you could fix that by positioning... They couldn't because they already had the manifolds for mass production, I'd assume. But someone doing a little one off turbo that never needs to be produced again... For instance if the outlet of the compressor was angled down at like a 45* angle. I wonder if that would help to keep the fuel suspended...
I'll keep researching and stuff, but thanks for digging up that article for me!
Also, I figured I'd add that I received the turbo yesterday. I was playing around with it and kinda trying to position things how they'd be in the final product. The plate that sticks off the Carb->Turbo manifold that allows the two intake manifolds to be bolted together will DEFINITELY not reach the other manifold. I kind of expected this, but I got hopefully for a moment.
I'm figuring that I could make an adapter plate that'll go between the two manifolds once I figure out how I want them positioned. That would seem to be the best solution at the moment. I'll have to see how it sits in the car.
Back again! I've almost got all my parts now. Still need gauges, hoses and pipe.
But, I've got my hands on my Rotary Works 12a Turbo Exhaust Manifold. I've seen next to nothing about this manifold in the past... It looks good, welds look good, comes with gaskets and turbo mounting bolts/nuts.
Anyways, the only bad thing I could mention is that the T4 flange is warped a little. I'm not sure if this will be a problem as of now.
After a brief hiatus in which I was moving and pretty busy, I'm finally back at it again with my car. As of yesterday, I've finally got the old engine and transmission out of my car and I'm putting in a new lower mile 12a + a 5sp transmission (had a 4sp manual before).
12-28-16, 06:13 AM
