I just swapped a new rebuilt engine into my GXL. It would crank over all day long, I have checked numerous things and still it will not start. I have changed the complete engine harness to a known to be working one and still it will just crank. I changed the upper and lower intake manifolds thinking it might help, but no it didnt do anything.
<<if it matters, the OMP was blocked off and all the plugs/ hoses were blocked off so I could pre-mix>>

Can anyone help me diagnose my problem? Does anyone have an OBD 1 I can borrow in or near Orange County?

Anything you guys can think of post it or PM me as I need to get this running let me know.

 

put some oil in down the intake or spark plug holes. Or try some starter fluid.

 

That is what I did prior to changing the harness. I sprayed some starter fluid in there and it started but would not hold. I swapped the engine harness, changed the tps to a working one from my other car and still it will only crank and no start.

Note: I am aware that the starter fluid is harsh on the apex seals.

Could the C.A.S. be faulty with these conditions???

Please help guys

 

Is the OMP still attached to the harness or did you remove it altogether?

 

It is removed all together

 

any more ideas guys and gals???????

 

Well there you have it. I suppose you didn't ask in the 2nd gen section.
Anyhow, the S5 ECU will go into limp mode if the OMP is disconnected. Reconnect it and try starting it again.

 

so it will start but not idle?

 

Based on what you said, I'll bet you put the fuel lines on backward. You wouldn't be the first one to do that.

 

No I did not but I will post a thread there right now. I just pluged the omp back onto the harness and it only cranked. Could not having it on there have fried the ecu? Do i need a new one?

Currently I cant get it to start at all without help from starter fluid or carb cleaner.

I dont believe so. The line coming fron the fuel filter goes on the hard line closest to the front of the vehicle, while the one from the firewall is on the rear one. That is correct, right Hozz?

 

so it will start with starter fluid and then die.

tested the injectors? double check all your fuel lines if you find nothing wrong move on to electrical. mine did the same thing then I found a blown EGI fuse

 

I tested all the injectors and they all are ok. They were 14.6-14.7 ohms. They are allowed I believe 12-16 ohms of resistance. It is NOT the injectors.

Fuel lines I have checked over and over and I cannot find anything wrong with them.

I have no blown fuses. I have checked them all.

Any more ideas???

 

did you remove all emissions and block off anything? maybe you got a leak in your rats nest somewhere

 

does it only start with starter fluid and doesnt stay on? check fuel pressure. then i would say check timing. if those are ok, do a compression test just in case.

 

Psst. Your fuel pump is probably not working. Troubleshoot it. (Did you put the fuse back in?)

--Gary

 

also your MAF might be bad.

 

check your fuel pump
fuel pressure
be sure vac lines are in all the right spots
and afm works
my s5 had the same problem cuz the afm didn't work so we put a stick in it to hold it open and it ran, but rich...

 

Gary, I thought the same thing too. I swaped fuel pumps to another from my other car and it still wont turn over. I have over 30 PSI of fuel pressure. And I changed every vaccuum line individually so I could not get tehm confused. I also double checked them. It is not a vaccuum related problem though. My AFM i have also changed to a working one and it still doesnt want to start. I am going to do a compression test because that is the last thing I can think of. If my rebuild is faulty...

 

boooooo! good luck with the comp test man

 

I can't imagine it wouldn't run at all if your rebuild was faulty... unless you like, forgot to put apex seal springs in or something, heh.

Not sure where you should focus your efforts, since the fuel delivery is the most likely problem and you checked it. If it's firing (you have spark) on starter fluid, it probably isn't the timing because if it were then you would always get an "almost start," even on gas. So, I guess I would check the impedance on the injectors and make sure they're opening on the correct voltage.

If that doesn't come up short... I'd start from the beginning (the fuel rail), pull it off and turn the key on and see if gas pours out (to somewhere safe ;P) and if it doesn't, start working your way back step by step until you find the spot where you DO get gas. Oh, and it might be possible you didn't let the fuel pump run long enough if you emptied the fuel lines.... it does have to charge the lines for like 30 seconds or so (key to the on position, you can hear the pump). But that should have been done in the "priming" stage where you crank it with the fuse out.

Also, you don't need an OBD I reader, you can simply short the plug out and it will flash the codes for you. (That's probably one of the bigger reasons they changedto OBD II, you can't check your own codes with most of them... have to pay mechanics just to see.)

Here's a link that explains how and has the code list:

http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/codes.html

(Glad that site is still up! I haven't used that in years lol)

--Gary

 

Junk it and end the misery.

 

so............................when u taking it outta here?

 

I don't think an OBD I scan will solve your problem, obviously you have a fuel delivery issue if you already checked for spark, only you can find your mistake when you put this thing together, a closer inspection will be necesary. it will be hard for somebody in the forum to diagnose you forgot to push a conector in all the way (for example), since you are in the OC take to Louie at RRR , he's the cheapest guy around.