Hey Guys,

So I bought a set of twins with 30k miles on them and I want to switch out my stock ones with almost 100k miles on them before I have it tuned with a pfc. I was looking for videos on how to remove and install the new turbos but I had no luck. I am a fast learner so if I watch something once I can pretty much do it after that.

Does anyone want to kill sometime, have beers, and help me change the turbos? I need someone that has experience to guide me through the process. I can come to you or you can come to me. My car is in North Hollywood at my brother's house.

Even if you live near Torrance (where I live) I can bring the car to you.

Please and thank you.

Call or text 310-678-9395 Armen

 

Plus Lunch & $50. Anyone?

 

bump

 

You are going to replace stock with stock? Don't you want to upgrade since you doing all that work? BNRs??

It's no easy job btw.

 

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I would love to upgrade but the only problem is money. BNRs are really expensive. My end goal for this car is to go single but I know that that is going to be many years from now.

My stock turbos have 130k miles on them and I just bought a pfc. I looked underneath the car and I saw oil and when I looked up at the turbo, half of the turbo look like it had soaked in oil so I think I might have an oil leak from the turbos somewhere. I figured, if I can change the turbos and put the set that I have with 30k miles on them, I can tune the car after.

That is the reason i am trying to change the turbos. I want to tune the car at 12psi and try to reach 290-300whp with all the upgrades I have on it. (downpipe, midepipe, PF intercooler, fluidyne radiator).

 

yah money is always and issue of course...300rwhp for the fd is very good. you might want to get ur used turbos rebuilt before throwing them in. turbocity used to do them but i heard their services stinks now.

 

hey man,

your doing the right thing swapping the turbos, even if its stock for stock. As far as the stock turbos go, anything over 80k miles is a ticking time bomb once 12psi+. I ran my stock twins for 20k miles HARD, on the track at 13psi and they were good when I sold them at ~40k miles.


Heres my tip on removing the twins. Ive done it twice and learned a few things doing so.
First thing first, buy proper tools! Second, have a buddy with you to help out especially when taking the sucker out from the engine bay.

1) A nice breaker bar. Home depot as some random brand version thats beefy and cheap. THe worst thing that can happen during the stock twin removal process is stripping a nut. So dont mess around with pipes on flimsy rachets. Buy a nice breaker bar. Obviously youll need 12mm,14mm, 17mm, SQUARE SOCKETS.

2) Buy corresponding extensions, swivels, long socket, swivel socket, etc. Trust me you are going to need to get creative for the downpipe.

3) PB blaster. Soak up all the turbo bolts and let it sit for a couple hours. Itll make a difference. THese are the bolts you need to remove once you take off the stock heat shields.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...ations-485829/

The hardest part is removing the DP honestly. Get ready to replace the studs and bolts since they usually get screwed up. DONT STRIP THEM! lol With the breaker bar and patience, the turbo nuts are not bad.. they are easy to get to. They do get seized up, but again, with the breaker bar youll have to power them out and replace them. DONT STRIP THEM!

One you got everything loosened up, the turbos comeout from the top. The heater line may be in the way so loosen up the bolts for its clamp and push it aside. Youll know what im talking about when your at that point. For installing the new turbo, make sure to replace the damaged bolts with high quality, high temp hardware and to use quality copper anti-seize.

Let me know how it goes

 

Thanks for the advice ArmenMaxx. Last Sunday I went over to my brother in laws body shop and put the car on the lift. It took me about an hour to get the downpipe off but I started the project in the afternoon so I was not going to have time to finish it up. I couldn't leave the car there so I ended up putting the downpipe back on. I at least know how to take that off now so that might simplify things the next time I take a crack at it.

Actually, in the last two days I decided that I am going to do a non-seq setup. I ordered the block off plates from Banzai Racing and I will be purchasing the air pump delete pulley kit from pineapple racing. My plan is to make the car more reliable and hopefully get at least 300whp after the tune.

Would you recommend dyno tuning or street tuning? I read on one of your threads that you tuned your own car. Did you do it on the dyno or street?

 

I would try to get a ride in another Fd with non-seq turbos. I have heard the lag can be a bit of an annoyance but then again ive never driven/felt a FD with modified non-seq so maybe its not so bad.

def try to dyno tune if you can but i would not say its a must. Ive done both street and dyno. On the dyno you get an idea of what your inputs are doing. For example If your adding timing and not gaining power, then thats bad. Its easier to get afrs locked down. But for smaller afr adjustments and driveability i like street. Finding decent dyno time for a good price is tough now a days tho.

 

Yea, I heard about the lag as well. I guess I will have to do some more research on it. Everywhere I have been calling they want around $500 for dyno tuning. I found a place that will street tune for $300 but I figure for an extra $200 it might be worth getting a precise tune and getting printouts for my records.

Hopefully this will be all done when you get back in March and you can take a ride in the car.

 

Just make sure you get it tuned by someone who knows what they are doing..have rotary experience. Unfortunately, I cant really vouch for anyone at the moment besides steve khan and MAYBE Nelson at RRR.

 

Good advice from Armen. I totally forgot about the damn studs. When I helped my buddy out years ago, we jacked up one of the studs and had to drill them out. It was not fun.

Good luck man! Non-Sequentials are the best btw!

 

I had non sequential bnrs and they were cool but not for a street driven car. by the time you clear the boost threshold you'll be speeding. you'll never really get into boost driving on the street within the speed limit.

 

I see your point. So, basically the turbos now only kick in after 4500 rpm? There is no way to adjust that to lets say, 4000 rpm? Isn't that what a boost control system does?

 

I wish it worked like that. A boost controller helps set your max psi by adjusting when your wastegate opens to vent the exhaust and maintain boost. (If exhaust keeps going through your turbo its going to increase your boost, not boost sooner) It can help build spool ALITTLE faster once you start getting boost, but this makes a marginal diff mainly inbetween shifts.

When you go non sequential your engine exhaust is going to have to spin 2 turbines at once vs 1 at a time, so therefore you need more exhaust (More exhaust comes from more RPM) so thats why it spools up later.

If it really does spool up at 4500rpm, I def wouldnt go non-seq. Thats pretty damn laggy. My single turbo spools up 10psi by 3500. Stock twins are like 2500 prob

 

Simi-good news. I just spoke with the tuner that will be tuning my car and he said that they will spool at 3500.

 

3500 is better.

Good luck with the conversion, let us know how it goes.