after a year later
 

ok after almost a year this april and several thousand dollars later my zoom zoom goon edition is almost done just install the 48ida and manifold and it sound just mean and vicious all i have to do now is fix the front windshield, hood and exhaust leak. just when out for a test drive and it was bad ass she has so much power is a bit scary :D lol. 13b with a big and vicious street ported and polish motor is bad ass. will upload some pictures later. by the way those anybody know were to get a windshield near los angeles or inland empire. :rock:

No bridgeport? No way! :)

nope just street port im going to drive my goon alot. lol

pics or it didn't happen.

^+1

pictures
 

pictures here there are. now i just have to get here tune.

http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/a...o/DSCF3195.jpg

http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/a...o/DSCF3194.jpg

http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/a...o/DSCF3193.jpg

http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/a...o/DSCF3192.jpg

http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/a...h_DSCF3196.jpg

Summit Racing sales a Griffin racing aluminum radiator that fits a 510 perfectly and to fix you long radiator hose. That kink on the hose looks scary. http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...r&autoview=SKU The sounds is sick!!!:icon_tup::icon_tup::icon_tup:

k thanks but that is a 510 radiator. im going to take off the water neck and have them cut it and re-weld so it could be facing the radiator.

I know it is a 510 radiator. Since you have a rotary you need a radiator where the inlet and the outlet is on the passenger side. Cleaner and better for the engine. Even try a stock RX7 radiator that is better than a 510 radiator. Rotary run hot so its better what works for a rotary engine.

i did try a rx7 radiator but it was to tall . thats the reason i both a 3 row radiator it actually keeps the motor real cool the hottest it gets is 120 to 140

Looks nice. Definitely fix that kink in the upper radiator hose. Your oil pressure sender wire doesn't look hooked up.

Also, I think you should relocate that fuel pressure regulator. It's right next to the exhaust manifold. You're crazy to run a line less than 6 inches from that glowing hot exhaust manifold. I'd hate to see it burn down.

Wow thats even cooler than mine. Stock Rotary runs at 175 to 185 degrees and your runs at 120 to 140 thats empressive. The only time my runs at 150 is at night when its 65 degrees temperature climate. Then again my is a turbo that runs hot. But for mine to run at 180F on a 101 degrees temperature going up hill to Mount Shasta and LA traffic I too was very happy. I agree with ReZ311 I'd hate to see it burn down too. Here mine in Cardomain with the Griffin Aluminum Drag Race Radiators http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3253204

wow i jst got a woody nice ride.:nod:when i had my stock 510 radiator it use to get up to 180 and 190 but with this 3 row is much cooler. about the fuel line i made it shorter already. about the oil preasure is not connected i have to get the racing beat adapter for my oil preasure sending unit. also fix my wires i don't want a electrical fire.

kinked upper radiator hose, fuel line/regulator near the header,loose radiator fan wires, fuel line is too long. IM very disappointed with you. a lilttle old lady from pasadena can do better so you need to show some pride of ownership.

i wanted to say more but now I cant remember...got take a look again at the pictures

like i said i'm not done, i'm just happy that it turns on and drives. i give props to the old lady from pasadena if she dose a nice job. everybody is entitle to there opinions. about having pride. i got plenty. i think i'm doing a decent job, for not being a mechanic or a rotary expert. this wasn't easy for me but i'm trying to do my best. theres still plenty to do but i will get there soon.

well, based on your initial post, it sounded like its a done deal so take my comments as a "constructive criticism"

i know. i was just glad the the car turn on after a year of working on it, when i rode the post.

finally get to watch the video....you have issues with your newer version 48-IDA. Are you pre-mixing? also, I cant really but if im not mistaken, the OC line coming out from the front cover loops upwards, then down?

i just had the ida re-jeted it wasn't getting enough fuel, it runs good now, yes i premix my fuel, yes the oc lines are coming out i have my oc in front of the the radiator for now.i also fix the fuel line problem already some of the electrical. and the water neck is next. ill post some pictures later.

took a couple more pictures i still have more work to do. but is getting there.
http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/a...o/DSCF3202.jpg

http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/a...o/DSCF3203.jpg

http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/a...o/DSCF3204.jpg

http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/a...o/DSCF3207.jpg

http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/a...o/DSCF3206.jpg

stop thinking like a piston owner so transfer the holley red near the fuel tank. buy a real regulator instead of that purolator or mr gasket crap. in addition, your alternator is wired incorrectly. one of those thin wires need to go directly to the 'b' terminal. to make it easier on me, why dont you just drive it down to LA and let me show you how to do it right:egrin:

yeah..mr ricer there know's what the fuck is up..........fucker.


:AA:

the reason why it runs too cool is due to the fact that the t-coupler (water temp sensor) is in the rear plate or heater hose. You're not measuring the outlet temp. If you transfer it behind the water pump housing, you will see higher temp. Per a very reliable source (member speedturn), it is best to have it in back of the water pump housing. its best to measure the outlet temp than inlet so you can actually monitor the motor. this the same spot that racing beat recommends.

shiettt :lol::lol::lol::lol:

what funny is that my second gen never went over 120degrees in temp with alum. rad and an efan..that's bad i know. they need to be warm.

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