LQ4 help.
 

i know the LQ4 is 100lbs more than the LS1, oil pan and intake need a swap.
but reading through LS1 truck forum those guys are making tons of power out of the 6.0 LQ4. (367HP/401TQ on stock engine with tune)
does anyone know if the mounts are the same as the LS1.
also are the stock heads iron?

my old FC is gone and its time to start a new project.

A few LQ4s have iron heads, most (especially the high power ones) are aluminum.

Excluding an alternator bolt hole, all mounting is identical to LS1/LS2.

376 HP at the flywheel maybe, 376 RWHP from JUST a tune ain't happening. That's a 100+ RWHP increase. Nu uh.

he never stated engine or wheel dyno
so who knows.

edit:woops engine dyno (in thread title rofl)

http://forum.ls1truck.com/index.php?showtopic=4726

I almost buy that. I mean, I'm not being skeptical because I really don't know much about these engines, but they do seem to respond well to tuning and mods. ....uh... that sounded like a much more intelligent sentence when it was still in my head.

I was looking at a 2002 Chevy Silverado today, 6.0L and almost brand new-looking. I would love to buy the truck but it's a little out of my price range considering the wife and I already have two vehicles (well, actually we own two cars and I have a company car, so the DSM is sitting and gathering snow at the moment). Looks like the owner has done a few mods to it.

Anyway, seems like the LQ4 is a good alternative to an LS2... just a little more weight, but big deal.

I just bought my LQ4 out of a 2003 Sierra today. Someone rolled the truck, but the motor looked brand new and even ran before the guy pulled it. Got a stellar deal at $750 for the complete motor, wiring, PCM, and accesories.

These motors repond really well to performance builds. Most the drag race guys go to these engines because the cast iron is better for force induction both for heat dispersion and cylinder twist.

I know a guy with a GMC typhone with an LQ4 makeing 576 WHP on a cheap budget build. He had the dyno to prove it. He used a corvette cam, tuned the computer, ls6 intake, and twin turbo'd it with grand national turbo's he picked up off ebay for about a $100 a pop. Retarded fast truck.

Horsepower tv built one with a corvette cam, l92 ($800 fully assembled NEW), and a 650cfm demon carb, and put down 650 hp on the engine dyno, and 540 tq.

I'm going NA with mine for my drift car.

Wow, really late to the game on this one. Sorry guys.

Aluminum has better heat transfer properties than cast iron.

WTF is "cylinder twist"?

If you're not going FI then you're just carrying extra weight with the cast iron block.

Well, if you are making more than 700 hp (900-plus is routine today), the aluminum block starts to become a liability to long-term health. Simply put, the aluminum block was not designed to support the power the rest of the engine has shown itself capable of producing. The iron block, though, has been known to withstand well over 1,400 hp with a few additions/modifications, and it will handle a little over 1,000 hp in factory trim.

Cylinder twist, or cylinder flex is when the sleeves, or bores in the block have some much force put on them they twist or flex causing bend or breaking of the connecting rods. If the force is great enough they break the cylinder bore from the rest of the block.

Like any engine when one applies enough force on it they'll quickly find the weakest link. It's more of an issue with open deck blocks like the EJ205 subaru motor (WRX 02-05) when they approach around 425hp.

I am going to start off NA on my build, but may go to twin turbo'd if I feel I need the extra HP. The LQ4 only weights in at 65 lbs heavier than the ls1, and cost me less than half the price.

Open deck http://forums.drom.ru/attachment.php...0&d=1193735515

Closed Deck http://www.iwsti.com/forums/attachme...chmentid=13205

I just got done rebuilding my roommates WRX this last weekend. Neat engines. I measured it up and with a little bit of frame notching the engine could fit into the RX7. Was thinking of doing it just for the name WRX7. Just to note, it would be a RWD, not AWD car. Just get the center diff welded. Also, the engine would site behind the front axle making it still a mid-engine car.