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Originally Posted by Yolo7
(Post 12364391)
I thought I had cleaned mine pretty well too, but now I am questioning my work after a 0.5 mile of driving (LoL). I assume with the clamp you're referring to sucking air in past the clamp, that too passed through my head. I'll check it when I get the tank out. A lot easier to suck air than a liquid for sure.
If I reuse this tank, I'll probably spend the dough on the POR-15 restoration kit. I used por15 or similar ...I forget, it was silver and worked well. |
Originally Posted by ATC529R
(Post 12364472)
Remeber also thats a 5/16 line going to the engine. I swapped mine to 3/8 going to engine and 5/16 on return line and crimped that.
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Originally Posted by Freeskier7791
(Post 12364225)
The walbro pump should have a pick up strainer/sock on it. Do you have the pump on a dedicated relay? I have found that I got much better performance when I did. Previously when I started my car it would not want to run on all 8 cylinders for about 30 seconds. Now I have no issues with starting. I am running a dedicated 12v on a relay for my pump with a on off switch.
the relay even makes the pump sound smoother as it gets it more power |
Just got the tank out. It doesn’t look too ridiculous inside. There is some varnish build up where the tube sits, but there still seems to be a good air gap between tank and the end of the tube.
All the hose clamps were tight. The walbro pump as a screen imbedded inside it, but not serviceable or easy to see. I don’t see any debris in it. There is no sock at the end of the tube. The pump is is really struggling. Fuel barely trickles out when I was trying to pump the tank out. Did it right off the pump too. Im going to play around with it and see if I can find anything else. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...edc81da5b.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c03be9794.jpeg |
So another quick update. I got the fuel out of the tank. I’ll tell you a siphon flow at least 5X more than my pump was. After draining, I tried blowing some air in through the pickup tube, but it didn’t seem like air was flowing. So I then turned to brake clean, but it would just shoot back at me with not even a drip into the tank. Finally, the combination of brake clean and air finally pushed some fluid into the tank.
So there it is, the tube is restricted. I will try and soak it with carb cleaner and get my hands on a long thin bottle brush and see what I can clean. It might hard though. The tube has a few bends in it that are close to 90*. |
Hey All
It’s been a few weeks since I’ve been on here. Which has given me some time to think about how to resolve this fuel tank issue. After going back and forth on my options, I’ve concluded there are three options.
Lately, I have been cautious about what I spend my money on. I’ve spent a lot of money thus far (partially due to my analness), and have never driven the thing. I’d rather save money for a properly mounted seat, restraints and a trailer. So, it hard to justify the cost of a fuel cell – at the moment. The FB tank is still a possibility, but I can’t say I’m totally thrilled with getting a big hammer to bash in the car and make it fit. So this leaves me with option number three. The downside is that I am left with the limited baffling and pickups, maybe even worst since I would have to relocate a new pickup to the left side of the tank (I’ll explain in a moment). But, if this is to be an off-road use only for autocross and drag race, would it be that difficult to just keep the tank full? I’m thinking as long as I keep it at 60% capacity, it should be a good enough starting point. So this part here is what gave me the inspiration for what I am planning to do. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e1fe3c38b5.jpg But this guy won’t work – due to the fact that the hose has to be attached from the inside once the bulkhead fitting is secured. And there is no room to get in there with a wrench. In fact, all there is to work with is the hole in the tank for the ORV valve. This is where I am thinking of installing. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0831092c60.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...641c95ad94.jpg These pieces below are what I plan on using along with some submersible fuel hose. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d6a59a9b9b.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ecd7dfdf38.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...29280a4594.jpg The idea will be to drill a hole, and assemble with a 5/16” hose a spring style clamp and drop it down to the bottom of the tank. As I drop it in, I feed the hose through the retaining nut. From there, I can hold the retaining nut with my finger and tighten the bulkhead fitting from the outside. This assumes that spring type hose clamp slips through the drilled hole and the retaining nut. There is also a possibility the hose will interfere with the sending unit arm. But who cares I if the tank has to be topped off to prevent fuel starvation. I’m curious to what you all think or if you have any better ideas. |
I'd cut a piece of coat hanger or a little thinner material so it can bend when you hit the angles. one end in the tank the other end on the drill and reem it out like they do with toilets, or cheap hardor frieght sand blaster..they're 20 bucks
you're thinking about all the expensive options. sleep on it, try on, then another. no need to change that tank, there's no way that think got crimped in there... |
So I have been driving my car a lot lately and the 12a FB tank sucks!! If you fill too much you usually spill in turns, and if you have less than a 1/4 tank it bogs real bad in left hand turns. I am going to a fuel cell, I found out that a 12 gallon will fit in my spare tire well so no need to cut. I figure it will be 300-500. RCI sells a nice baffled aluminum cell
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So I know it's been a minute since I've posted anything. Been busy with a lot of things as of late. I did manage to get my fuel tank problem fixed. I used some Evap-O-Rust and it seems to have solved my issue. I sprayed the cleaner down the tube for a few days and worked it with pipe cleaners until all a sudden it was clear. I then dumped some more cleaner in the tank and let it sit overnight (swishing it around occasionally). After using the Evap-O-Rust cleaner I cleaned it out with hot water and a little POR15 degreaser followed by some isopropyl alcohol. This is how it looked afterwards.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...66f933a342.jpg Not prefect but a whole lot better. And after reinstalling the tank, I can't even hear my fuel pump run at all - quiet as can be. I drove the car around the block once and seemed to run good. I still need work on the brake feel however, not as firm as I'd like it to be. I started a new thread last week. I've been looking at changing my seat out to gain some more headroom. I have the thread in the 1st Gen section. My current list of priority items are: Fix a coolant leak (think its coming from the cheap t-stat housing); get a new seat, modify/install hood, get an alignment. I'll try and keep you posted. |
Originally Posted by Yolo7
(Post 12295884)
A quick update on the build. I'm steadily making progress. Since the last time I was on here I've been cleaning up some of the wiring and working with the cooling system.
I installed the Granny radiator side seals and took some time to add foam and other things to keep as much air as possible from bypassing the radiator. This will be important because the two fans I have purchased look really wimpy when compared to the size of the radiator. I temporarily installed the radiator to mount the fans, and then proceeded to wiring the fans. To wire the dual fans, I bought a terminal barrier strip from Amazon. It's okay quality, but I like how it came with a plastic cover and insulated bridge buss bars. The fan controller and terminal block are both mounted to the front core support area behind the left head light. With this completed I think my electrical work is now limited to the O2 sensors. On Sunday I spent about an hour and half at the Napa auto parts trying to find radiator hoses that work. The lower hose was pretty easy to find but I couldn't find the right one to use as the upper. So bought a hose that has a couple angles that work and bought an inline hose connector from Jegs that includes a wig nut style drain/bleeder. The upper hose is the highest spot in the system, and this bleeder will be extremely valuable when it comes to bleeding the air from the system. This part should arrive on Friday. A few other things on the way are some materials to finish wrapping the harnesses and a starter solenoid/plunger. The starter solenoid had a stripped stud for the trigger terminal. I found a new solenoid for half the cost of a reman starter. This weekend the goal is to finish installing radiator, retorque the engine accessories, finish cleaning up the wiring and possibly mount the distributor and upper intake. I'm at that point where there are a bunch of tiny details, so we'll see what we get done. The biggest thing on the list is the exhaust. I'm starting to research what materials I want to use and need. I think I will play around with the Mustang exhaust and see if I can rig it so I can at least turn the key and hear this sucker run. I'm getting excited! Peace out. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...bbca119331.jpg Dual Fans Mounted on Radiator https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b6357f2e84.jpg Radiator Set in Car https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7ca7f73c7d.jpg Side Seal in Place and Fan Controller and Terminal Strip https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ba6788bf03.jpg Close up of Controller and Terminal Strip I am VERY interested to see how this works out for you, as I CAN NOT for the life of me keep mine to run cool. I have tried EVERYTHING. I have had several flex fans with full shroud and THREE pushers. 2 10" in front, but not mounted to radiator and an 8" mounted to radiator and every thermostat combo you can imagine. It wasn't as bad, but I recently installed the condenser in front and it is much worse. I will have two 10" 1700+ each fans mounted up front on the condensor, as well as shields on each side as to not let air escape and I finally found a 2 1/8 16" fan I will mount on the front side of the radiator as a puller. It only pulls about 1300 CF, but it will be centered on the radiator. THE PROBLEM is the fan from the engine sits up too high and does not pull air from bottom of radiator....that or the radiator is just too small for my application. I live in S. FL and the engine is 10.5 compression etc, etc. I just had a more restrictive exhaust put on which should help scavenging, vacuum and maybe be able to bump up my timing more. motor runs great, but gets hot quick. The 2 10" fans I had before were 1000 CFM and I believe 15 or 16" fan on the motor......could not go bigger as that is already above the radiator a bit. I hope your's turns out well, but this is giving me fits. whats the cfm on those? |
I seriously doubt those fans cool that radiator, and if you have the same issue with the engine fan being too high........building a shroud is a PITA and no use because you have no depth... or at least i dont. , this is the slimmest I could find. I wish you luck. build looks awesome. I need to update mine. |
Do you guys have the subframe flipped and the Foxbody double-hump oil pan, to keep the motor as low as possible? Or did you do it the old "high as hell" way?
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Originally Posted by Maxwedge
(Post 12377409)
Do you guys have the subframe flipped and the Foxbody double-hump oil pan, to keep the motor as low as possible? Or did you do it the old "high as hell" way?
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Both ways fit under the hood but flipping the crossmember gets your motor a couple inches lower, lining your fan up better and giving more choices of intake. That's why I asked, wasnt sure if that was the problem.
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Originally Posted by Maxwedge
(Post 12377420)
Both ways fit under the hood but flipping the crossmember gets your motor a couple inches lower, lining your fan up better and giving more choices of intake. That's why I asked, wasnt sure if that was the problem.
I wish I had more clearance between water pump/crank pulley to use a puller fan instead of the pusher. I am not overly confident in the current setups cooling efficiency. The radiator I am using is a double pass. I tried to keep the fans higher to cool the first pass and let the more exposed lower us the air. |
sorry for my smartass response. I had not heard of flipping subframe. That being said, the thing only has a couple inches clearance w/o it being flipped. When I 1st read that post I was like WOW great idea, then I thought of ground clearance and driving on road with speed bumps and driveways and such. I wouldn't want it any lower than it is....it's damn low. (I do have 3/16" spacer plates I made between subframe and frame for a little extra under hood clearance). IF my new setup works I will post, and remember I have the condensor on there in front of radiator.....so if it cools in S. FL heat it will cool anywhere.....
If I did it again I would use a bigger radiator and move the front frame support like someone else did. When I had my exhaust done monday, the guy (and he's good) said with my setup I should be running a 4 core at least. Hood insulation on the way as well, as it gets hot lol... and my headers are wrapped, .....I don't know what else to do...... except have run or change my compression ratio with different gasket. thats option 1. option 2 is different intake and hole in hood (that single plane weiand isn't that efficient for street use and low scavenging I am sure heats er up quicker. option 3 is cutting frame supports and much bigger ratiator. As of now I am going for the option of everything short of a wind turbine to flow over that radiator. LOL sorry for thread hijack and being a smartass. |
No problem. With a SBC you use a modified flat bottom oil pan like Hamburgers or Milodon sell and the motor sits down behind the stock crossmember, and the mechanical fan fits in the stock mazda shroud. I'm a Chevy guy at heart. When I looked at ferds I saw alot of info about fan and carb/filter clearance, and then saw Granny's instructions to reverse the crossmember and the Fox oil pan would straddle it and let the motor sit down lower.
Whew. Anyway, I was just asking how yours was mounted. |
YOLO
Glad to see you are stepping forward on your build. It is great to hear that you are close to starting. Your work is very motivating to me Thank you And guys rotating the crossmember makes a Ford small block fit with about 1/4 inch between pan and crossmember . A saddle pan is needed But I'm using a 351w and Edelbrock victor jr with 1405 carb and had to cut the hood and make a cowl induction |
A little update.
As of late I have been spending a lot of time researching and making decisions on a driver’s seat. I have another thread on the first gen page if you’re interested in more details. But in short, my head hits the roof with a helmet on so I am trying to find something that works and is safe. This weekend was spent tying up some loose ends. I finished repairing my t-stat housing leak. It seems to be repaired. In the process I discovered that my cap is not holding pressure. After bleeding the system, capping it and then letting sit overnight – I ran the engine up to temp and there was no pressure in the hoses. I am thinking it is because I have the wrong cap. The cap is for a ’93 Mustang which looked close to being right. But it must not seal against the Ron Davis radiator. I’ll have to do some research and try another cap to use with the Ron Davis radiator that Granny’s sold me. I removed all the carpet from the car – figured there is no real need for this car to have it. Plus it was pretty shabby. At the same time I reinstalled some miscellaneous trim pieces and cleaned up everything. Looks pretty good relatively speaking. I also mounted the hood. So for the first time in like 4 years the car has a working hood. I was thinking I would have to trim some bracing off, but it seems to be good as is. Before slamming it closed, I pulled the latch and used Playdough to check clearances. At least a .25” to spare everywhere but around the PCV hose, but that should be okay. So another item checked off the list. I then washed the car to remove the dust that has collected over the months. The paint still looks badly faded – but hey – it’s clean. So a lot of maintenance this weekend. My list of major things to do is getting shorter. Focus is currently on the seat issue which will hopefully be resolved this weekend. I’m also am looking for a trailer because I need to get it to an alignment shop. |
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https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b259c37b4.jpeg
The car seems to have a lean to the left and I’m not sure why. I am pretty sure I have the springs lined up correctly in the notches. I am going to loosen and retighten all the rear suspension and see if anything changes. has anyone seen this? |
lookin good!
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Originally Posted by Yolo7
(Post 12380907)
The car seems to have a lean to the left and I’m not sure why. I am pretty sure I have the springs lined up correctly in the notches. I am going to loosen and retighten all the rear suspension and see if anything changes.
has anyone seen this? Some people say the jig Mazda used to weld the car was crooked, others say the weight of driver and battery on left makes the springs sag on left. I dont know but mine has under 60k and it droops left, so I think it has to be a build or design flaw. |
Originally Posted by Maxwedge
(Post 12380983)
Most 1st gens lean to the left. Mazda made spacer plates/shims to mount between driver side strut top and body to help correct this, because so many people complained (back in the 80's). Mazdatrix still sells this part.
Some people say the jig Mazda used to weld the car was crooked, others say the weight of driver and battery on left makes the springs sag on left. I dont know but mine has under 60k and it droops left, so I think it has to be a build or design flaw. |
So the car left town today, on the back of trailer at least. Took the car to get an alignment at a shop an old friends works at.
after getting back home I did a few little odds and ends. Tomorrow, if the weather cooperates, I am going to take the car to the semi-local drag strip to feel the car out. Fingers crossed it works out. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e1257ab1e.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0074f5d8c.jpeg |
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