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ok i got ya
i've seen that flat tappet needs 2000 rpm for 20 mins with high zinc oil is that correct?
and will it hurt to just add some gas in the carb and try for a few seconds?
this has been 2 years now not hearing it run i'm so ready to
turning it over with a impact you can hear the ump ump so it will run now
as soon as the tall covers arrive it should be ready
man i can't wait
and this engine is not going to stay there forever, just to get it running to boost my skills
when i feel good about it, and i do now as i have come a long way since day one
an all out 427 turbo is in my dreams
I did not know you had a flat tappet, that is correct. I would wait until you are ready to run the thing for 20 mins before you fire up. I know it is tempting but you can hurt things if not done properly
thanks patrick it has been a real trip doing this. if you had seen the engine in day one and see it now in the last pic you would think it is a new version.it is just blasted clean and painted with new bolt on's and looks killer.
Originally Posted by Freeskier7791
I did not know you had a flat tappet, that is correct. I would wait until you are ready to run the thing for 20 mins before you fire up. I know it is tempting but you can hurt things if not done properly
yes flat tappet just to keep cost down. cams are cheap and i can't wait to hear that ***** thumper cam.
vavle covers are due around oct 5 or so. i can just vise grip a rad in place and run the needed time to break in the cam and lifters.
i have the mech fuel pump on the engine right so can i just run a line into a 5 gal can of fuel for it to run?
thanks patrick it has been a real trip doing this. if you had seen the engine in day one and see it now in the last pic you would think it is a new version.it is just blasted clean and painted with new bolt on's and looks killer.
yes flat tappet just to keep cost down. cams are cheap and i can't wait to hear that ***** thumper cam.
vavle covers are due around oct 5 or so. i can just vise grip a rad in place and run the needed time to break in the cam and lifters.
i have the mech fuel pump on the engine right so can i just run a line into a 5 gal can of fuel for it to run?
Yea that would be fine, Just make sure that you turn the motor over a bit before applying the ignition to prelube and fill the bowls
guy look at this f%$king crap
earlest snow fall in the last 30 years
on nov 17 we had 32 cm of snow and brings work to a stop
came so quickly my prelude never made it to the back yard
i was in the process of new tie rods when snow storm was forcast
i am totally depressed with this
That's rough man. Hope you can come up with a winter project.
thanks man
yes i have more winter in doors projects but none pisses me off like this
after 2018 has been the worst year of my life and can't end soon enough
after this summers head work i seen tall valve covers were needed to clear the roller rocker arms
these were backordered till oct 14. when they arrived i realized that was it for the engine to start.
ordered the break in oil and a prime tool which arrived nov 14
i had planned on this weekend to prime and attempt a start. late thursday night the weather said a rain snow mix when i went to bed
through the night it changed to an all snow event i had to leave work on friday in the snow to push the rx7 back in the yard
i am so gutted and i know i can't change it but what a kick in the jewels
to be so close and fail
today i received some 1/8 and 1/4 thick abs sheets to make a guage bezel
this is just to subdue the race car look that aluminum makes.
my goal is just as sleeper as i can make it
ok i got ya
i've seen that flat tappet needs 2000 rpm for 20 mins with high zinc oil is that correct?
and will it hurt to just add some gas in the carb and try for a few seconds?
this has been 2 years now not hearing it run i'm so ready to
turning it over with a impact you can hear the ump ump so it will run now
as soon as the tall covers arrive it should be ready
man i can't wait
and this engine is not going to stay there forever, just to get it running to boost my skills
when i feel good about it, and i do now as i have come a long way since day one
an all out 427 turbo is in my dreams
You want to vary RPM from 2000-3000 in a slow controlled manner up and down, don't keep it sustained. 20 minutes or to full hot operating temperature, whichever comes first. Delo diesel oil is a great choice for break in, high zinc content. I break in all my engines with it.
wow my lucky day
another member saw my wanted post for front 5 lug hubs and he has a set for me
thank you from deeply in my heart for your help
it means the world to me
thanks JulioGee for contacting me
now that these are a go i plan on 16" front black steel toyota rims biggest rotors i can find to fit and wilwood 4 piston calipers
i think a 225/ 55 /16 is 27" tall
rear will be diamond racing steelies in 15 x 10 and a 275/60/15 to be 27.5" tall this to get the rear backspace where i want it for a prostock drag look
Just an FYI i fit the stock 5 lug brakes under a 15" wheel in the front. It is tight and requires a 3/8" or 10mm spacer but it does fit. If you dont want to build anything a mazda 626 balljoint can be used in an FB lower control arm to mount the FC knuckle.
Thanks
i will need to wait till I receive the 5 lug hubs to see what they are like. Also to see what else I need to mount them
My mention of 17" front rims are just a thought to get 13" rotors .
To me performance is as much in braking as in horsepower and suspension
I love killer brakes and as a result I over brake everything I build.
Even my Dodge ram winter truck has ebc rotors and pads,these are the best stopping power bolt on brakes I have seen.
I have mustang sn95 rear rotors and calipers
Having said all this what does the 5 lug hubs mount like? Do they mount on taper spindle?
Thanks
i will need to wait till I receive the 5 lug hubs to see what they are like. Also to see what else I need to mount them
My mention of 17" front rims are just a thought to get 13" rotors .
To me performance is as much in braking as in horsepower and suspension
I love killer brakes and as a result I over brake everything I build.
Even my Dodge ram winter truck has ebc rotors and pads,these are the best stopping power bolt on brakes I have seen.
I have mustang sn95 rear rotors and calipers
Having said all this what does the 5 lug hubs mount like? Do they mount on taper spindle?
The outer bearing is smaller than the inner bearing. You can make a spacer to mount them on an 83-85 spindle, I can give you dimensions if you want. The stock FC rotors are more than enough to stop the FB, you are making a huge upgrade from the stock FB/SA brakes.
Good luck with the frond hub swap. Be sure to take a few pictures. I'm always interested in learning.
thank you yolo
yes sir i will take lots of pics as i am assuming i will need lots of help but you never know it may be easier then thought.
Originally Posted by Freeskier7791
The outer bearing is smaller than the inner bearing. You can make a spacer to mount them on an 83-85 spindle, I can give you dimensions if you want. The stock FC rotors are more than enough to stop the FB, you are making a huge upgrade from the stock FB/SA brakes.
thanks andrew
first everyone check out andrews youtube channel the drifting dad , very good how to info that is all needed by any rx7 lover
i'm confused
do i need 83-85 spindles remember i own a 1980 sa22c
i thought fb were the next series after the sa
From my understanding the 79-82 spindles are different and use smaller ID bearings than the 83-85 spindles. I would show you with a picture but I sold my old spindles. The 83-85 outer hub bearing is the same as the FC so that is why it works. I guess you could make a spacer for your spindles for the outer bearing, but IDK how strong it would be.
From my understanding the 79-82 spindles are different and use smaller ID bearings than the 83-85 spindles. I would show you with a picture but I sold my old spindles. The 83-85 outer hub bearing is the same as the FC so that is why it works. I guess you could make a spacer for your spindles for the outer bearing, but IDK how strong it would be.
ok i need to wait till spring so i can get at it again
but i can always gather some needed parts
i found stoptech have vented rotors
and also a company here in canada that sells jdm engines has a set of 4 piston mazda jdm calipers for 200 bucks
i had no idea that any rx7 had 4 piston calipers so these will be half the cost of willwood
so with all this put together this thing will be a stopping beast with the added weight and power
i'm excited now after 2018 has been the most terrible year that can't end soon enough
andrew i think i got what you mean in a spacer needs to be made for the outer bearings
the ind supply company i work for sells bearings
the stock sa22c spindles use a lm11749 outer bearing that is 9/16 id
the years listed as 84- 85 use a 32204 outer bearing which is 20mm id
so a bushing is needed to take the 9/16 up to 20mm right?
guys a lttle correction the stock bearings are not 9/16 they are 11/16
today i made these spacers that are 20mm od x 11/16 id and 12mm thick
these will go in the 32204 bearings to make them 11/16
over this last week end we had a warm spell melted most all the snow enough that today for the first christmas day in a long while
i had 2 hours to work on the rx7. started to get the dash off to repair the cracks
also here are the summit tall aluminum valve covers
It’s nice to see that the weather was kind enough to allow you some time to work on the seven. The new valve covers look great.
The spindle spacers for the FC hubs are interesting. I can’t wait to see where this goes.
JJ
thanks yolo
never before in winter have i ever been able to do this , it was a great time. even 2 hours will get something done and it all makes progress
the spacers i made from 1" round solid bar turned to 20mm and drilled center with the 9/16 bit . this was the biggest i could go in a vise before i could
any bigger would distort the roundness
then i used a dremel burr and a kevler glove to hold each peice untill heat was to much
took me about 3 hours too get them right
i want to go stoptech 13" rotor in the front and the 4 piston calipers the rear will have mustang rotor and calipers
a 16" or 17" front rim to clear
and a 15" will clear the rear rotors they are 11"
i am waiting on new bolts for the valve covers but this brings another problem
them almost block off 1 heater nipple
i'm looking for a heat bent 90 for this
09-18-18, 07:14 AM
