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thanks guys
i saw on grannys mule car something like yours but i can't seem to find a y pipe any where. at first i was going this way and bought a flowmaster 40 in 3".
i don't have any other parts just yet but not settled on a x pipe .
one thing that is bothering me is the you weld header kit i'm looking at has a 3" collector
does it hurt any for 3" all the way back?
This is what I got. I may try to add an H pipe at some point to mellow the sound more too. Flowmasters are terrible for performance. I bought a Jones Full Boar muffler, basically a copy of a magnaflow and am really happy with it. 3" all the way back you may lose a little mid range torque, probably not much though. It will be way louder though. I would get 3" to 2.5" reducers after the headers. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/j...oaAlpwEALw_wcB
thanks guys
i saw on grannys mule car something like yours but i can't seem to find a y pipe any where. at first i was going this way and bought a flowmaster 40 in 3".
i don't have any other parts just yet but not settled on a x pipe .
one thing that is bothering me is the you weld header kit i'm looking at has a 3" collector
does it hurt any for 3" all the way back?
Yes, I have worked with 351's all my life and your going to kill lower and mid torque, and that's what those motors want. Unless your doing all out drag or stroking to 408ci then 2.5's are way more than you need. Bigger isn't always better. I even bet a stock 351 with duel 2.25's each side would out perform one with 2.5's
Yes, I have worked with 351's all my life and your going to kill lower and mid torque, and that's what those motors want. Unless your doing all out drag or stroking to 408ci then 2.5's are way more than you need. Bigger isn't always better. I even bet a stock 351 with duel 2.25's each side would out perform one with 2.5's
ok great info exactly what i am after with this stock old 351 low end torque
2.25 will be easier to hide under the car right
but can i run the 2 2.25 into one single pipe back and just step it up to 3 for the muffler
or get a new muffler in 2.25?
ok great info exactly what i am after with this stock old 351 low end torque
2.25 will be easier to hide under the car right
but can i run the 2 2.25 into one single pipe back and just step it up to 3 for the muffler
or get a new muffler in 2.25?
I would run it completely as duels all the way out. If you cant, then where the two 2.25's meet, you will want to step up the pipe larger
Good to see you chugging along. How much longer do you think you have until the snow falls and you have to pause the project?
thanks
well the weather is still pretty good with day time highs in good range and under normal conditions snow starts late nov .
as the car goes i'm not any where close to finish at all , still need to build the 8.8 ,recover the seats in black, install black carpet, also repair the dash as it is cracked in some places.
also i need to do a full gage set with autometer stuff.
this summer did not let me have much free time and now the day light is shorter it's dark at 7;30 pm now
only time to work is weekends
having said this it is ok
no rush to finish a much enjoyed rebuild that i so completely love being involed in
this weekend i changed the frost pulgs with new ones and filled engine with oil ran the oil pump to prime the engine
i just want install the t5 and get them mounted back in the car soon
this will be all i can do until spring again
over the winter i hope to have the 8.8 cut so the moser end plate can be welded on , install the carrier and order some axles
one area i am troubled about is cutting the hood. this is causing some trouble
a cowl induction will destory the sleeper look i'm after
not sure yet how to proceed
today was a great sunny day and after much troublesome thinking i took the plunge. i stressed over cutting the hood for months but i jumped in with both feet today.
so after all the stress was it worth some sleepless nights hell no. turned out perfect and even saved most of the paint.
looks straight and finished well not just a hack job.
my plan is a cowl induction scoop
well i am no expert but i think the a 351w is taller then a 302.
oil pan has aprox 3/16 gap with cross member so it is in the right position.
see in my pics even the coil on hei dist, is above the hood.
carb and air cleaner hang out as well
see in your engine pic how your valve covers are below the top of the shock towers well a 351 valve covers are higher then the towers
Sad to see French. You’ve made
some good progress this year. Hopefully 2018 will be the year we both finally get to drive our V8 RX7s.
Do you have any mini projects to work on while the snow falls?
yes i do
i hope have a narrowed fully preped 8,8 done over the winter in my basement.
i have the moser housing ends , lsd diff with 3.73 gears and full timkin bearings just need the axles.
moser tell me how to measure for the length after the axle width is found.
so far based on rims with 3.5 backspace and 8" wide a 58" axle housing from flange to flange
allow for a 265/45 x 15 tire to fit in the wheel arch.
but this is just on paper . this car must look prostock drag look, biggest tire tucked under the rear fender without tubbing it.
rear rims are to be deeper looking and not the modern - offset look
Hey Gordie, I know it is still pretty darn cold up there in the tundra and that y'all have been getting some random snow storms...but have you been able to pull the car off of the tarp at all yet? I keep coming back and checking about once a month to see if there are any updates and am feeling neglected. Haha
Hey Gordie, I know it is still pretty darn cold up there in the tundra and that y'all have been getting some random snow storms...but have you been able to pull the car off of the tarp at all yet? I keep coming back and checking about once a month to see if there are any updates and am feeling neglected. Haha
hi there
i just got a email about your post
sorry i have not been able to post any updates. but i have been busy buying some more needed parts . over the winter i received from racing beat some black seat upholstry.
a glowshift tach, speedo and oil pressure gauges.
work on the rear end is still going on
as for the car and where it sits well it is up to the roof line in snow. i did at one time clean enough to get the hood released as i was having trouble with pully fitment.
crank pully , water pump pullys hit each other.
i found a ford site that numbers stamped in these hard prats can be entered to find year and model
to my shock the water pump pully is a mercurser marine engine . no wonder it was too big .
so i did find a d8ae and it fits perfect. it is just under 6" dia where the other one is 7 1/4" dia
so i could not wait to try and shoveled enough to get the hood open to mount thses but now you would never know this after all
and now the forcast is watching 3 nor easters on there way starting late wensday night due to clear on sunday.
40 to 60 cm is expected that is like 3 feet for the non metric folks.
another month or so and i hope to resume.
thank you for asking
gordie
Has the snow thawed out yet? We haven’t heard from you in a while. We’re you able to accomplish any of those winter projects?
yes but it has been a funny winter and spring so far
axle housing is cut to right length and just need a pro to weld on the moser ends as my small mig can't handle thick stuff like this.
damn pulleys are still giving me trouble , still hit each other
and still working on the seats
i have the ***** thumper cam in , lifters, push rods , springs and still waiting on rockers
headers are still a no go with this steering box
i hope to atempt a first start in the coming weeks
guys i hit a little snag
the spring keepers finally arrived and i made a air fitting from a old plug so i could swap in the new springs.
5 of the 8 cylinders had air coming out the exhaust ports. so i pulled the heads and i was shocked . pistons look very good but the heads are terrible.
valves are carboned more then i have ever seen. so last week or 2 i stripped down both heads and cleaned heads and valves . now i feel better with how they look.
i'm waiting on a lap tool to try and see if i can get the seats back.
the head bolts i removed , can they be reused or are new ones needed?
after a very taxing summer that i have not posted any work , here is were i'm at so far.
at the point of my last post in the spring i found the heads needed work. i stripped them and honed each valve . i also cleaned up all inlet and exhaust ports .
i pulled the pressed in rocker studs in favor of thread in 7/16 studs . i added comp springs retainers and keepers. blasted the old crud off and painted ford blue.
i added also comp roller rockers with poly locks .
this problem grew from the progress so far
need tall valve covers.
I'm sorry to hear about the tough summer. I'm glad you have found a little time to tinker with the car. The car is often an outlet for me. When I'm working or thinking about the car it makes it easy to forget about all the stressful things in life.
The heads cleaned up well. Classic Ford Blue looks great along with the intake.
What's on the upcoming work besides taller V/C? Finish the rear axle yet?
I'm sorry to hear about the tough summer. I'm glad you have found a little time to tinker with the car. The car is often an outlet for me. When I'm working or thinking about the car it makes it easy to forget about all the stressful things in life.
The heads cleaned up well. Classic Ford Blue looks great along with the intake.
What's on the upcoming work besides taller V/C? Finish the rear axle yet?
thanks for understanding
i have a new center section with lsd and ford racing 3.73 gears to go in, the moser weld ends , 95 mustang rear calipers new rotors but can't seem to find the brackets that hold the calipers.
need everything mocked up in order to cut the housing.
another note is compression after heads where cleaned
all are in the 138 to 144 psi now so should run in it's state
i don't like the plug wires the way they fit
Looks great, sorry to hear bout the tough times. Did you tighten the polylocks correctly? First time I did mine I didn't add any preload and broke a pushrod after they got loose
Looks great, sorry to hear bout the tough times. Did you tighten the polylocks correctly? First time I did mine I didn't add any preload and broke a pushrod after they got loose
thanks andrew
i don't know brother if they are right . all i have to go on is a manual. never have i done a v8 anything and dought all i do .
i went through the fire order rotating till both valves were closed and got zero lash plus half a turn.
rotated engine with a ratchet on crank pully a few times and all seem ok.
thanks andrew
i don't know brother if they are right . all i have to go on is a manual. never have i done a v8 anything and dought all i do .
i went through the fire order rotating till both valves were closed and got zero lash plus half a turn.
rotated engine with a ratchet on crank pully a few times and all seem ok.
Once you get it started, check them after running for a few hours to make sure they are still tight
Once you get it started, check them after running for a few hours to make sure they are still tight
ok i got ya
i've seen that flat tappet needs 2000 rpm for 20 mins with high zinc oil is that correct?
and will it hurt to just add some gas in the carb and try for a few seconds?
this has been 2 years now not hearing it run i'm so ready to
turning it over with a impact you can hear the ump ump so it will run now
as soon as the tall covers arrive it should be ready
man i can't wait
and this engine is not going to stay there forever, just to get it running to boost my skills
when i feel good about it, and i do now as i have come a long way since day one
an all out 427 turbo is in my dreams
10-05-17, 07:48 AM
