What should my whp be at and with how much psi on this build?
 

My car is currently at a shop getting tuned and so far they've gotten to 340rwhp at 1.3-1.4 BAR(18-20psi) and I get the feeling it should be making more whp at that much boost.

Here's my setup on stock ports:
Suspension:
Work Equips wheels 18x9.5 +22/18x10.5 +18
w/ reverse lip barrels, faced powder coated gloss white with polished lips
Stance GR+Pro coilovers
PowerFlex Polyurathane bushings
AtomicRex racing spherical pillow balls

Brakes:
Hawk HP+ front pads
Hawk HP+ rear pads

Engine:
Block off plates
OMP adaptor plate with seperate tank for 2 stroke oil
Oil filter sandwich adaptor plate
SakeBomb Garage map sensor bracket

Exhaust System:
RX7store resonated midpipe
HKS Hi Power catback exhaust

Forced Induction:
GTX35R single turbo
Turblown Engineering turbo exhaust manifold
RX7store V-mount
Greddy elbow
Tial BOV
Tial MV-R wastegate

Cooling:
Samco coolant hoses
Dual oil coolers

Auxillery Injection:
Aquamist HFS3v2
w/ Aquamist RX7 summer
50-50 water/methanol mixture
Howerton Engineering 2 Gallon water/meth tank
w/ Red LED
w/ cooling fan

Fuel:
CJ Motorsport Stage 1 complete fuel rail
w/ Aeromotive FPR
w/ Bosch 550cc/Injector Dynamic 2200cc injectors
Walbro 400LPN in-tank fuel pump

Electrical:
HKS Twin Power ignition amp
GM 3 bar map sensor
Apexi Power FC with commander
Apexi limited edition black AVCR boost controller
Defi Advance CR control unit
Defi Advance CR boost 52mm black
Defi Advance CR water temp 52mm black
Defi Advance CR oil temp 52mm black
Defi Advance CR oil pressure 52mm black
NGK AFX wideband

Interior:
Autometer A pillar triple pod
Level Zero Motorsports Black delrin shift knob

Exterior:
SakeBomb Garage HID projector headlights

Compression check been done? Is it breaking up on the top end? Post the dyno sheet that will help a lot, make sure it has the torque curve also. Rpms would be nice instead of wheel speed.. The numbers are extremely low for any dyno. Should be at least 450rwhp @ 20psi.

I had the shop do compression test back while I was deployed and I asked them about it and I was told "the engine popped up right where it should be for one of these engines. All 6 rotor sides were within 1 psi of each other around 77 on the gauge"

Hopefully they did it wrong or didnt hold the throttle open, cause 77psi all around is pretty worn out, recent rebuilds are around 110psi and anything under 90psi is probably starting to show signs of age.

Had another shop use a normal compression tester and it showed right around 110 psi across the board so ruled that out. Found some boost leaks and other things and cars running strong now but another run on the dyno now shows the clutch not holding up to the power so I've got an ACT 6 puck extreme clutch on the way. Funny thing is the shop that did the compression tests that showed 77psi uses a fancy computerized rotary compression tester and even thought those numbers to be good and said he hardly ever sees 100psi or more.

what dyno are you using?

Most likely between 450-500 depending on the tuner