463 HP 21.5 psi t04r dyno
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Done on a dynojet today. I'm happy with the results. 463 max HP at about 7k rpms, 21.5 peak boost holding nicely, and 381 max torque around 6k but it looks like about the same max torque from 5500-6500 rpms. Dyno sheet attached, YouTube link below. 11.5 afr until it dropped down to 11.0 afr after peak HP at 7k rpms. Pre turbo water injection, 93 pump gas, knock stays very low, fairly conservative leading timing and 12 split. I tuned it better for the 2nd run to get the AFR up from 11 to 11.5 at around 7k rpms and you can see the power difference there.
How do you think It looks? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VeP7l...e_gdata_player |
can you get the run files from the shop? Then you can download the Winpep7 software on thee Dynojet site. It's a lot easier to analyze than some printout. That graph is not optimal to look at. The operator had it set to a split chart format but he had no wideband input. He also could have zoomed the window in better.
The numbers look fine. Some might say they are low for that boost level but honestly I think a lot of people are running around with some optimistic dyno sheets. Considering you've picked up a good 50whp over the stock twins maxed out, I'd say it's pretty good. |
Ya I gave them my email and waiting for the files from them, I'll call tomorrow, I want to have the files too. I could also attach my datalog too. I only did 3 dyno pulls during a dyno day yesterday, and just turned up the boost to 20-21.5 the day before so not much tuning time. Afr was mostly between 11.1-11.4 and with little or no knock I'm wondering how much leaner I can safely go for more power. Thx
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My ait's went up 20 degrees during the Dyno pulls, from 20C to 40C, I have a greddy 2 row fmic, I guess I should have upgraded to a 3 row a long time ago. I also had a 20 degrees C raise in ait with the stock twins at nearly the Same boost level on the Dyno. I will also install my larger water injector.
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you're still going to get heatsoaking in a dyno environment
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Ya, there was a nice big fan though, and my temps at the end of a run at the drag strip went up about the Same amount. I just bought a used greddy 3 row core so I'll see how much that helps in a week or two, hopefully it makes a nice difference.
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u tuned it yourself?
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Ya. Power FC, fc datalogit, laptop, plx r-500 wideband dataloging, street tuning
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Hey nice numbers, so what are exactly ur mods done to the car?
I got a T04s and only made 384 @ 17 psi. Khris |
Any reason your injecting the water pre-turbo? You should be a few hp higher with that turbo. Whats the porting of the motor look like? Still not bad for a self tune. Khris, to4s is smaller but you should still be able to break 400.
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thanks. Short mod list - T04R turbo, .96 AR, exhaust wrap on downpipe and on a divided exhaust manifold, mild streetport, my custom cold air intake, my tune, 850/1680 injectors max 88% idc (that will come down cause it was too rich up top), Denso supra fuel pump rewired with a relay in the hatch 13.8 volts all the time, got it idleing around 12.4-12.7 afr, 40 psi base. Power FC with datalogit, PLX R-500 WB. Greddy 2 row FMIC. Greddy catback, resonated MP. 1 Crane HI-6DSR Ignition, MSD 8224 leading coil, 2 NGK R7420-10 leading spark plugs and 2 BR10EIX trailing plugs with stock trailing coil. fraits near fmic outlet. Greddy elbow with greddy bov. Heat reflective tape on lim. Other mods in my mods list in my signature.
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I thought I'd give the pre turbo wi a try, after seeing lots of members recommending it and for the knock protection instead of using expensive race gas. Also based on my own experiences with injecting into the greddy elbow, it really robbed power there both with this single turbo and when I tried it with the stock twins. Power feels good with the pre turbo wi, although I have not ran the car without it so I don't know how it would be without it. The pre turbo wi doesn't seem to affect ait, but it does a good job of keeping knock low, it does a much better job of that than a 50/50 mix of 100 octane race gas I was using with the stock twins.
It's a mild streetport done by djseven. I'm sure I can squeeze more power out of it with some more fine tuning at this boost level. Then I'll be up for running a little more boost to hopefully break 500 hp, but I may need bigger injectors and a better fuel pump for that.
Originally Posted by Rotary Experiment Seven
(Post 10784234)
Any reason your injecting the water pre-turbo? You should be a few hp higher with that turbo. Whats the porting of the motor look like? Still not bad for a self tune. Khris, to4s is smaller but you should still be able to break 400.
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1 Attachment(s)
Attached is my datalog and .dat files in a zip folder
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I guess my inejctors probably explain why i got low numbers, i am only 550, 1300, however there was a guy in cali that made 437 back in 2004 or 01 with the to4s, offcourse it was tune by xs engineering , which is the same kit that I have. Well I guess I goona swap my secondary to ID 2000, and swap my pump to aeromotive fuel pump 340 lph. Then I will get a retune to see if it makes a difference.
Not bad for tunign ur own car, also r u running split timing? or how advanced are they? Khris |
what size nozzle were you running when you had it post turbo...a smaller nozzle at the elbow with a fine mist would have optimized the balance and given you bettet results probably injecting to much to the point where it robbed power...also adapting your map for water and/or alcohol inj is def not a bad idea.
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Your boost explains why your power isn't higher, your fuel injectors don't determine how much power it can make, they are one part that determines how much boost you can run and still have enough fuel, I'm sure you don't have enough fuel for more boost. HP is made with boost and the proper tuning. I was also going to upgrade to the ID2000 injectors when ever it is needed with more boost soon, and the aeromotive 340 pump looks like a nice drop in tank option. The bosch 044 flows just a little more under high boost, but they are both supposed to be much better than the denso supra pump, the aeromotive would be easier to install, check out this test of all 3 pumps here http://realstreetperformance.com/sto...on-test-5.html
Split timing is 12. Leading timing drops down to 4 degrees adv. at 6k rpm in my map but logs at 6, and it goes back up to 14 adv at 8 k rpms, this is for my 20 psi boost row, a little more timing for lower boost, timing goes down as boost goes up.
Originally Posted by Rx7aholic
(Post 10784764)
I guess my inejctors probably explain why i got low numbers, i am only 550, 1300, however there was a guy in cali that made 437 back in 2004 or 01 with the to4s, offcourse it was tune by xs engineering , which is the same kit that I have. Well I guess I goona swap my secondary to ID 2000, and swap my pump to aeromotive fuel pump 340 lph. Then I will get a retune to see if it makes a difference.
Not bad for tunign ur own car, also r u running split timing? or how advanced are they? Khris |
I tried the smallest 130cc nozzle from aem in the greddy elbow (nice fine mist), still lost too much power for my liking, of course the smaller nozzle was better than the two larger nozzles. With the single turbo I tried the small nozzle in my ic outlet pipe and another same size 130cc small nozzle pre turbo, so that I wasn't injecting too much water overall, same result, too much power loss. Now I run the middle size 315cc nozzle pre turbo and power is better. I thought about putting in the large 550cc nozzle pre turbo but I don't see the point, I don't want to rob power if it's too much water and my knock is staying low so why inject more water. I may try it someday though.
Originally Posted by Derex'7
(Post 10784830)
what size nozzle were you running when you had it post turbo...a smaller nozzle at the elbow with a fine mist would have optimized the balance and given you bettet results probably injecting to much to the point where it robbed power...also adapting your map for water and/or alcohol inj is def not a bad idea.
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Wow. Thats alot of HP for that pump. No? I was running the same pump w/ the same relay set-up and it was falling off a bit @ 420ish up top. Sp I upgraded. Maybe it was going bad.
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Rx7.com says it can support 500 HP, I've had no signs of it falling off. How do you know it was falling off, assuming you tried adding fuel and it was still too lean?
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Numbers look good. You trapped near 129 with stock twins at 400rwhp, Id say the dyno you are on isnt fluffing the numbers.
It will be interesting to see your new trap speeds with more power but probably less time under the curve. Any chance you can overlap your 400rwhp dyno on stock twins with the new dyno sheet? |
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Thanks. I will be going to the track thursday if it don't rain so we'll see how it does. There is a little more lag with the single and it takes a little longer to hit full boost after switching gears so I hope that doesn't hurt me too much. The t04r is a journal bearing with a large .96 AR so i guess that explains the extra lag. I'm trying to get all the dyno files emailed to me and then I can do a better comparison and a overlap. But it looks like with the stock turbos I hit 400 hp at 5400 rpm, with the single turbo I hit 400 hp at 5500 rpm. Stock turbos made more power below 5500 rpm. Stock turbos dropped below 400 hp around 7500rpm, t04r dropped below 400 hp around 7600 but it was also too rich there so with better tuning I will do today that power should stay above 400 hp longer.
The max torque with the twins was actually slightly more, but the torque curve of the single is better, it looks to stay between 370-380 ft lbs from 5400-6500rpm, with the stock twins it looks like torque falls off more after 5500rpm. But I need better dyno sheets and the files to see the data better. My stock twins dyno sheet is attached. |
Originally Posted by djseven
(Post 10785131)
Numbers look good. You trapped near 129 with stock twins at 400rwhp, Id say the dyno you are on isnt fluffing the numbers.
Originally Posted by djseven
(Post 10785131)
It will be interesting to see your new trap speeds with more power but probably less time under the curve. Any chance you can overlap your 400rwhp dyno on stock twins with the new dyno sheet?
This would be gold:) |
Originally Posted by tom94RX-7
(Post 10784282)
I thought I'd give the pre turbo wi a try, after seeing lots of members recommending it and for the knock protection instead of using expensive race gas. Also based on my own experiences with injecting into the greddy elbow, it really robbed power there both with this single turbo and when I tried it with the stock twins. Power feels good with the pre turbo wi, although I have not ran the car without it so I don't know how it would be without it. The pre turbo wi doesn't seem to affect ait, but it does a good job of keeping knock low, it does a much better job of that than a 50/50 mix of 100 octane race gas I was using with the stock twins.
It's a mild streetport done by djseven. I'm sure I can squeeze more power out of it with some more fine tuning at this boost level. Then I'll be up for running a little more boost to hopefully break 500 hp, but I may need bigger injectors and a better fuel pump for that. |
Thanks for the suggestions. I have the fast reacting ait sensor in my intercooler pipe right after the fmic, so it does a good job of reacting fast to the air temps coming out of the fmic. With a 315cc nozzle pre turbo. The air temps logged climbed steady from 22 to 40 when I let off the gas. With the single turbo setup I tried a 130 cc wi nozzle in the ic pipe off the fmic outlet with the frait sensor in the greddy elbow, and I had the 315 cc nozzle pre turbo, running 18 psi boost. This setup lost power, perhaps it was too much water overall. I have not tried post IC WI only yet, I found many guys on here suggesting to only run the water pre turbo and it has worked good for me, power feels good and knock protection is good, except for not lowering ait. But I was thinking that may be because my fmic needed upgraded for this boost level so I bought a greddy 3 row. I may try post fmic water injection only but I like having the frait in the fmic outlet pipe so that it doesn't heat soak there.
How is the install of a bosch 044 as a in tank replacement? I know its not a direct fit replacement like the denso supra pump and the aeromotive stealth 340lph pump. I have a crane ignition box with built in 2 step launch control and a msd coil and have had great results with it so I don't see any need in changing it. |
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Yes, please get the dyno files. The torque curve is too elongated in that pic of the sheet, it's too hard to tell where it really starts falling off. And having your old run files would be good too. It's good to look through the torque curve because it can give you clues where to tweak the timing curve.
Now, some comments: 1) You have two lean spots. https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1315956548 One is caused by insufficient tip-in fuel. Sometimes you have to settle with getting it "good enough" for this kind of lean spot, but I think you have room for improvement. https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1315956548 One is caused by errant cells in the fuel map https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1315956548 You might benefit from additional timing. https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1315956548 Going back on the dyno would be best to determine this. After say 5400rpm you may be able to ramp it up on the leading. You are running a significant amount of boost with pump gas on a good sized turbo, and your dyno doesn't seem to be one of the questionably optimistic ones. Still, you probably have room to add timing if you're feeling a little greedy. If you're satisfied with the way it's running you could probably leave it as-is and it's unlikely to give you any trouble in the future. |
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