From left to right, OEM rubber bushings, new pillow-ball bushings, and hacked up Nylon bushings. :)

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...hmentid=235216

Here's the progress to date. The rear upper and lower control arms and trailing arms are "bare", ready to be sent for polishing. I redid the front upper control arms myself, but the front lower arms got a little abuse during test fitting for the new engine cradle, so I'm going to have them touched up and repolished with the rest of the pieces while I'm at it.

After they return, I'll install all the remaining pillow-ball bushings, and that'll be one more thing off my list. :)

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...hmentid=235217

One quick note... I wasn't able to attach most of the pictures in this thread because of forum lag, even though I waited to try late at night when load should have been at its lowest. I can't guarantee that the server hosting the pictures which were not attached will be up indefinitely, so be sure to copy any pictures that are of benefit to you to your local drive. That way, you'll have them regardless. :)

The reason I mention this is because I've had two servers shot out from under me in the past (both beyond my control), so the first few pages of my conversion thread in the 3rd gen. section has a lot of red Xs instead of cool pictures. You've been warned. :)

As I mentioned in my thread in the 3rd gen. forum, I got same-day turnaround on polishing my suspension components and sill plates, and paid only $300 for everything. If anyone is interested, the work was done by Eric Hayes, who I highly recommend. He's a really nice guy and a rotary enthusiast who doesn't mind a well-executed V8 conversion in an RX-7. :)

Here's Eric's contact information:

Eric J. Hayes
Fine Metal Polishing
Kirkland, WA
(425) 827-4898

And here's the end result...

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...postid=2138292

So tonight at about 7:00 PM, my rear suspension looked like this...

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...postid=2141226

and by about 11:30, it looked like this...

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...postid=2141244

BTW, Max Cooper stated in his write-up on installing pillow bushings in the rear suspension that the new OEM bushings are pre-lubed (true) and that adding additional grease is optional. However, my shop manual specifically lists adding more grease, so I used high quality marine-grade lithium grease to "top off" both sides of each pillow bushing before installing the dust caps.

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...postid=2141272

BTW, here's a note on installing new pillow bushing dust caps.

The dust caps are pretty much air-tight when new, so although they will easily snap into place (assuming the retention ring is clean), the center opening will stay near the top of the bolt opening unless you "burp" them. A scratch awl or pick is perfect for this. Very gently slide it between the center post of the bushing and the dust cap and then use it to hold the center opening of the dust cap away from the center post of the bushing. While doing this, push the rest of the cap down and the trapped air will escape through the opening. A small amount of grease may come up out of the opening during the process, but as soon as you slide the pick back out, just wipe it off and you're done.

After installing both dust caps on each bushing, I then slid a long Phillips screwdriver (for leverage) that was roughly the diameter of the bolt hole through the bushing and pushed the bushing around through its full range of motion several times to make sure that the dust caps were working properly and to work the grease around a little.

WOW
 

Clear writing, good pictures, detailed information, highly educational. A stunning, inspirational read. I have not touched my 3rd Gen yet, but plan on reading every Jimlab thread before I do. Thanks.

Nat

agreed....why isn't this a sticky or in a "permanent" archive section?

oops....sorry, wasn't looking in the right place :)

WOW, dont waste the money on the aftermarket toe links and trailing arms then, correct.
kris

Aftermarket toe links are going to be more rigid than the stock links, and since pillow bushings for the stock links aren't readily available, aftermarket links may be the next best option. Just be sure you get dust seals to help increase the life expectancy of the rod ends.

Aftermarket trailing arms, on the other hand, are only necessary if you need increased clearance for wider (over 9.5-10.0") wheels and tires. The stock trailing arms with stiffer bushings are all that's required otherwise.

No disrespect to you since you make the bushings, or made whatever the case is but would compaines like prothane or energy suspension have bushings of similar sizes?
kris

No, which is precisely why I make bushings. :)

Thought so, thanks jim.
kris

Jim, will this press http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=44811 do the job?

No. Too small in size to allow you to properly jig everything up even though the ram is probably powerful enough. I use the $100 12 ton press from Harbor Freight and have had no problems with doing trailing arms, front upper a-arms and diff bushings.

I had bought a used diff mount so I could mount my new bushings and then swap the mounts at my leisure. The used one was slightly corroded and the old bushings put up a big fight in being removed. They both let go with a very loud "bang!" and then still took some force to actually push out. The new ones slipped in with no problem. I haven't pressed anything with mine that took near the force as the removal of my old diff bushings did. I in fact bent the top bolts that the head presses against and so replaced them with grade 8 hardware. Nothing else I have done has required even half the force those did. I think mine were seriously corroded and stuck. If the 12 ton I have did those I'm sure it will handle anything else on the car.

PS- Don't know if this is true for everyone or not but I had to push my diff bushings from the inside to the outside to remove them. Wouldn't budge from the other direction even though the bore appears straight and there is no lip on the bushings.

This is the press jimlab used; the 20 ton from Harbor Freight:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...postid=2022908

My 12 ton press looks exactly like it except the bottle jack is only rated for 12 tons and the support the arbor plates rest on is not quite as beefy. It's also about half the cost of the 20 ton. There is an extra tab welded onto the 20 ton midway down the uprights to keep them from spreading; mine doesn't have that. Best I can tell the "business end" which does all the work is the same on both except the frame of the 20 ton is slightly larger so you could fit larger parts in. I don't think any of the bits I use mine for will pose a problem though.

I bought the 12 ton because I figured I could always add a bigger jack or a heavier arbor support if I needed to.

Both of the hydraulic presses are still available from Harbor Freight, although you won't find them by searching unless you have the part numbers.

The 12-ton press is part #1667 - now only $99 and free shipping
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=1667

The 20-ton press is part #37999 - $199 and free shipping
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=37999

Ok now the million dollar question is:

DO THEY SQUEEK??? AND NEED FREQUENT LUBRICATION (ONCE A MONTH OR TWO)???

Zerk fittings should be installed for lubricating the bushings once they're on the car, and if they're lubricated every time you change your oil, they should be noise free.

jimlab, I must give you credit: even though I am not an FD owner, this writeup is one of-if not the-best I have ever read. Pictures and writing are perfectly detailed and clearly descriptive. Way to go, just sorry it cost you so much to be able to do it :D

Compared to the cost of having a machine shop do all of the work this is the cheap way! The press will more than pay for itself just doing one entire set of bushings.

If you consider producing these at some point in the future, some of us are willing to pay 3x the cost of the Nylon replacements. :)

BTW, I've discovered some interesting info re: my previous Unobtanium bushing "observations".

Regards,

Gene

Aren't these made by Knightsports and RE Amemiya as well?

And then you can crush watermelons, and canned hams, and... :)

BicuspiD seems to have tracked down the actual manufacturer, although I was dealing directly with FEED. It's possible that they provide them to multiple vendors. At any rate, if you're interested, contact BicuspiD. :)

FEED, RE, R-Magic,Orginal Box, and KSP Eng all have them, I do not recall Knightsports caring them. I believe that R-Magic and KSPs are made in house.

Pricing is about:
FEED, Orgianl Box $1250 (18 bushings)
RE $1600 (20 bushings)
KSP and R-Magic $1500 (not sure on the number of bushings, and I believe KSP no longer makes them)

thanks!

I'm makin the cranberry sauce this year! ;)

if I want to just do this job piece meal as I have time on the weekends, for example do the rear control arms and trailing arms on one side, will my alignment be all jacked up?

Yes and no. The lower bolts on the front and rear a-arms are eccentric; this is how camber is adjusted. If you carefully mark them and carefully replace them in the proper direction the alignment will stay very close (assuming it was right to begin with). Things like the rear pillowballs, diff mounts, upper a-arms, trailing arms and even the toe links (just don't mix up the left and right and don't adjust them) can be done without worry.

All that said if I did an entire car I would still have it aligned afterwards. You can keep it very close to spec if you're careful but you wouldn't be sure without having it checked. Unless it's been aligned recently you won't even be sure it's right to start with anyway.

cool, thanks

the differential bushings sound like a major PITA....not looking forward to that

It's not that difficult. I posted how to do it somewhere. :)

if you have time please re-post....I saw a thread from someone else but it would be nice to read instructions written by the manufacturer :)

If I recall jim's description correctly you put the rear of the car on stands and drop the catback. Then remove the two bolts from the diff mount and drop the diff down until the axles rest on the subframe. There is now enough room on top to get a wrench on the 4 nuts which hold the diff mount casting to the diff. Remove the nuts and the mount and have your bushings pressed. Installation is the reverse of removal ;)

If I don't get to mine today I'll be doing it next weekend. I don't expect any problems after having looked at it closely.

Yep. :)

1. Jack up and support the car.
2. Remove the two belly pans (one plastic, one aluminum) under the rear subframe.
3. Unbolt your catback from your cat/midpipe and let it hang.
4. Support the differential with a jack and remove the two cross bolts holding the differential mount to the rear subframe.
5. Lower the differential until the axles are sitting on the bump stops. The differential can't go anywhere with the axles installed and the PPF connected, so you don't need to keep a jack under it.
6. You should now have all the access you need to the four 17mm nuts on the top of the differential which hold the mount on.
7. Use a long 17mm wrench and a small mallet to tap the nuts loose so you can remove them. They may have thread sealer on them, so getting them started is the tough part, but not that difficult.
7a. As an alternative, you can use the "two wrench trick" by using two open end/box end wrenches. Put a 17mm wrench on the nut, then put the box end of the second wrench over the open end of that wrench to get more leverage. If you've never done this before, it should be pretty obvious how it works. :)
8. Press out the differential bushings and replace with the nylon bushings.
9. Reverse the process.

There is NO need to disconnect the PPF from the differential, as some people have stated. You can get enough access from both sides without removing the cat-back or disconnecting the PPF just by dropping the differential down until the axles rest on the bump stops of the rear subframe.

nice write up jim

are your arms poliched or chromed???

cuz i noticed all the bling

Polished.

thanks Jim....zerks are still a good idea for the diff bushings or unecessary? would you even be able to get to them?

Unnecessary. The differential doesn't move after you install the bushings.

Did mine this weekend; no trouble. Removed the splash guards, the catback, the aluminum brace that passes through the PPF and then the two bolts in the diff bushings. Dropped the diff with a jack. Then I used a wrench and pried against it with a jack handle to get the nuts on top of the diff loose. They were tight but came off easier than expected. Once broke loose I spun them off by hand. Just enough room with the diff lowered to pull the mount out the right side. Didn't touch the PPF, the axles or the vapor canister.

Putting it back together was easy as pie but I used stock rubber mounts that will move slightly so aligning the bolts may have been easier for me than those who install nylon bushings. I spent about an hour and a half removing the old, installing the new and poking around under the car inspecting the PPF and stuff.

Oops... forgot to add that to the list. :D

I did another set of diff bushings this weekend on my 12 ton press. These popped out with no trouble so the set that fought me the first time was certainly due to the used mount I had on hand being heavily corroded.

Make this thread a sticky please..... great info. I'm doing mine this week.

The thread already is included in our Suspension Archive and there is also a link to it in our Suspension and Handling Links sticky.

BTW, anyone interested in knowing what the major cause of clunking noise in the rear suspension is should take a look at the picture below. The (white) Nylon insert in the pillow bushings wears out over time (note the scoring on the bearing surface of this bushing that would likely have accelerated wear), allowing the center shaft to move forward and backward. The clunking is caused by the spherical bearing hitting the outer metal casing of the bushing once the Nylon allows enough range of movement.

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...id=97352&stc=1

Whats the advantage of the A-frame press over the H frame press? The local harbor freight has the H frame in stock for $170 but not the A-frame.

Thanks

Either will work fine for bushings. The A-frame tends to be a little cheaper from what I've seen though (got mine on sale for $100 and free delivery).

Lucky you. I paid $200 for mine, but delivery is always free on orders over $50. :)

The A-frame press is wider than the H-frame press and has more room for maneuvering parts between the uprights.

You've got the 20 ton, I bought the 12. So far the 12 has done all the bushings and a rear wheel bearing with no trouble.

The pillow bushings seem to be spherical bearings sat in rubber. If that is the case, and Jim's custom ones are so difficult to get, is it possible to use normal spherical bearings which you can buy off the shelf?