Tri-point Engineering Coilovers (ASP KIT)
 

Does anybody know anything about this suspension setup from Tri-point engineering? The FD I just picked up has this. He said it's the Tri-point engineering coilover system they used to win the SCCA ASP class I think. Just curious about the spring rate and valving and how much it retails for. From what I've heard, it's pretty pricey, but I don't really know.

dude your back with a FD? nice

Cheers!.....what do you drive....jus wondering where you know me from.

Just call Tripoint and ask, they may have records.

More than likely what you have are Konis that have been customized to be double adjustable along with adding coilover sleeves, that was Tripoint's "standard" custom shock back in the day.

If it's a converted Koni the tubes are yellow with a dial near the bottom of the shock body (you have to get under the car to see it) and a flattened stem protruding up through the mounts on the chassis that is turned by a special knob or a pair of pliers. The top knob will turn 2 full turns from soft to hard.

i drive a white 1989 White TII. I remember you when you first got your car with the BBS rims then the RB turbo back and then the enkei RPM2. I keep on lusting after getting those things but university is sucking all the $$$ from me...

sigh... after a year i still have no RB turbo back or Enkei RPM2

Tri-point also used to sell Penske setups... so you might really be in luck!...

Yeah, they do. But back when they were running their ASP car I believe they were still working with DA Konis on it.

Depends on when and who did the setup. The first advertised ASP setup was with re-valved Konis and coilover kits. Guy Ankeny started up the Penske coilover setups at Tri-Point and then sprouted up his own company offering the same setups.

Easy answer to this question .... what color are the shock bodies?

they're the Koni's. That's very clear. I was just curious as to whether or not they were re-valved or not. It's hard to tell how these coilovers handle yet though because the current setup of the car is so much different from my FC w/ JIC's on it. Right now, the car has 19" rims, 600 miles on the motor (so I can't rev it yet), no power steering, and the fact that it's a differen't platform, so I can't really get a feel for the car. Once the engine is broken in, get a belt on the PS and some reasonbly sized wheels (stockers), I should be able to see how these are.

I have a set of tripoint koni double adjustable coilovers. I bought mine used and they are awesome. Dont know much about them other than the spring rates are 500/300 and I have them set as soft as possible and the ride is awesome for the street. If you have the info from the original owner they will be able to pull up the info on them and will probably even send you the dyno sheets for them - they did for me.

Shawn

I'm not really familiar with American standard measurement for spring rates, so I went ahead and did a little stoichiometry and the springrates that shawnk gave me (500lb ft /300lb ft) into metric units and I got Fronts: 8.93kg mm Rears: 5.36 kg mm. Now this seems to be a pretty big gap to me. My JIC setup on my FC was 8 and 6, and this two kilogram difference between front and rears seems to be the the norm on a lot of FD setups as well. I'm just wondering if this 3.5 kilo difference between the fronts and rears is normal. I feel like the rear spring rate will just be too soft when combined w/ the front. I would expect numbers like that for a FWD car or a realy nose-heavy car, but not for a FD which has perfect weight distribution. While I'd like to, I don't know everything about suspension so maybe somebody can tell me why there's such a large split on this setup. Apparently, Tri-poin won Solo II w/ this setup, so it must work, but I just want to know why..... I want to make sure that this setup isn't favorable for running slicks or something, which I will barely ever use (I like to autox my car how it's setup for the street).

It's a smart setup. FD's already have a natural tendency to oversteer and throttle induced oversteer is pretty easy to do. The lower rear spring rate will keep the rear from rotating so quickly. Better to go too little than too much for spring rates, IMO.

i agree.....redrotorR1....what's your car look like? Just curious if I've seen you around town or not.....

Well ... if my username didn't give it away ;) .... vintage red R1. Stock appearance. If you saw me, it's likely you saw me being pulled over by a lawdog. lol. :D

If you're interested, there's a Spokes auto-x this Sunday. I'm wavering between going to that or headed down to SA for the SASCA event. PM me, if you're up for it. :)

well....there's also one in Houston this weekend. BMW Club of Houston is putting one on at the Police Academy, so I might be going to that (my family is in Houston). I went to the last spokes event, and the course was kind of repetitive and boring. I think it's due to the strange space they have to work with, doesn't leave much creativity. I dont' even know if I will be able to autox this weekend. I just picked up this FD this weekend, and it'll be here Wednesday (shipped from Cali), but I don't know if I"ll have any stock wheels to put on. It has some way too huge 19" I'm trying to sell.