Rotor Question.
 

I am planning on doing some autocrossing and running some open track days soon and I need to upgrade my brakes. I was planning on going with some slotted rotors. Can someone tell me the difference between the Bremdo and Powerslot rotors, other than the slight price difference? I'm also qurious as to what pads you guys would recommend. They car will be seeing mainly street use with occasional track use.

Drilled and (to a lesser extent) slotted rotors crack more easily, so you might want to stick with solid-face rotors for the track. I have gone through several sets of Brembos (which should be among the best), but I had my latest set cryo treated and they have held up much better. I had the pads done, too, and they are lasting longer than my previous sets did. They are starting to get some small surface cracks, but that is after many more track days and street miles than the previous sets lasted.

I have been getting the rotors from http://www.brakeco.com/ and got the cryo done at http://www.cryoscience.com/

Track brakes are tricky to get right, and you might go through a few sets of rotors before you find something that lasts. You might start with the slotted rotors to give more consistent performance, but you might have to switch if you crack up the rotors too quickly.

One important lesson I learned is to follow the bedding procedure that comes with your pads -- I completely destroyed a set of pads and rotors in 1/2 a day because I just went out and ran them hard from the start. They last a lot longer when properly bedded.

-Max

Although I don't have any experiance with slotted or cross drilled I agree with Max 1000% about seating the pads/brakes correctly.

I have seen way too many people throw on a new set of pad and start racing right away only to wear though the set in one weekend, because they didn't break in the pads correctly.

Dr. Wankel
 

For the track, mo metal is better. The iron in the rotor is there to serve as a heat sink to help transfer the kinetic energy to heat energy! I've never tried either slotted or drilled. I've always had solid faced rotors. Those that have tried drilled rotors have ended their track weekends early from cracks. Slotted rotors apparently help in wet conditions...Whatever you do, don't get drilled. They look fine for cruising but aren't worth a damn when going road racin'.

Brake rotors--Mazda's original equipment rotor is MUCH better than Brembo. I've had 2 sets of Brembo replacement rotors. They're over-rated. I warped both sets. OE Mazda rotors last all season without warping. I do have heat-checks (tiny surface cracks), but the Mazda rotors have held up well. I get the OE Mazda rotors from Mazda Competition Parts. I have not tried cryo'd rotors. Those who have cryo'd rotors, swear by them!

Brake pads--I was like you once...too lazy to change pads...so I used Hawk HP Plusses. They're fine pads for autocrossing, and spirited driving, but suck ass at the track. They're good for 4 to 5 hotlaps, and then they go away. Don't even try HPSes. They're worse. I might get 2 laps before you melt the HPSes away!

The best compromise pad I've had to date are the Carbotech Panther Plusses. Used in conjuntion with the regular Panther compound in the rear, the Carbotechs are an awesome combination...AND the Carbotechs work when the brakes are stone-cold on the street! The downside is expense. Them Carbotechs ain't cheap! My set were prototypes, so were fairly inexpensive, the current production versions are $200 for the fronts!! Visit the Carbotech website for more information http://www.carbotecheng.com/

At the level I'm at now with road racing, I use dedicated road racing compound Hoosier tires, SSR Comp racing wheels, and Hawk Black compound brake pads for the fronts and Hawk HP Plusses for the rears. This combination gives me more front brake bias, and allows me to brake-turn (Skip Barber technique) much more smoothly. The rear HP Plusses get used up pretty well, but the combinatino works for me! Another combination that worked exceedingly well is Porterfield R4s up front and Carbotech Panther (regular) in back. The Portefields don't have the torque of the Hawk Blacks (need more pedal pressure with the R4s), but the brakes stay rock-hard! I suspect the Hawk Black with the Carbotech regular compounds in back would work too...I plan to try that next:)

Don't forget to use Motul 600 F brake fluid, and to replace your rubber brake hoses with stainless steel versions (now available in DOT, I recommend Goodridge).

Good luck out there and stay away from those retaining walls!!