umm....it affects bump steer for one.....and a couple other things that I can't think of at the moment.

Black91n/a, you don't think I could fit the 8.5, +38 in the front, and 9.5, +38 in the rear with coilovers?

I currently run 225 on 7's with +40 and a 5 mm spacer....it does come uncomfortably close to the front stock suspension.

When I installed my coilovers it didn't get me much more tire clearance.

You could always get the wheels and try, but be prepared to run spacers, because you will have to anyway. For an 8.5" wheel in front a 30mm offset is about the minimum, and for a 9.5" in the back the same, about a 30mm minimum. Besides, your own experiance shows that you'll need a lower offset in front.

You really should stop.
You're showing your ignorance on the whole subject, and you're going to end up sticking your foot in your mouth.

Scrub radius is just one of the things that gets changed.
Go read the Yamaguchi book on the FD - they talk about how keeping the high offset wheels is better for suspension geometry, especially when it gets loaded.

The suspension also gets loaded differently with the different offsets.
This is why I bring up the point about wheel bearings.

Well, you shrugged off all of that "bullshit", right?
This is what I expect from the whole punk drifters mentality...
You're right - you're not actually racing, so I guess these basic racing suspension dynamic fundamentals don't apply to you.
So long as you can toss your ride sideways, and it feels good to you it's all good, right?


-Ted

punk drifters ROCK... :rock:


..rotor engine ted is right on this one

not saying low offset wheels don't change other suspension geometry, it obviously does.
I understand how it changes the load on wheel bearings as well, but if I can race for 2+ years on the same wheel bearings with 'too low' offset wheels without effecting them negatively at all, then it doesn't make enough of a difference for it to matter to me.
as with scrub radius, everytime someone mentions a low offset wheel, someone bring up the fact that it will change the scrub radius..... yes, it will, but honestly what does scrub radius do? is it even a bad thing? HOW does it NEGATIVELY effect my car, and WILL I EVEN NOTICE THE DIFFERENCE? and really, NO, I won't notice the difference, and I still haven't seen anything on negative effects of changing it.

everyone acts like every little change in their suspension geometry is a huge deal, but the fact is, 90% of the people on here have never taken their car to the track and never will, yet they still pretend that they're going to notice 2 lbs difference in wheel weight, 20mm difference in tire width, change in scrub radius, etc....

there's maybe 5 people on this forum that actually build their cars to a serious enough level of competition where there is actually any reason to care about any of this stuff, and those 5 people already know what they're doing.
everyone else just thinks it makes some huge difference, but in reality, the biggest difference in the maybe 2 weekend events they get to (if they're lucky) in a single year, is their own driving.

pretty much, yes. I'm not actually racing, so I set up the suspension so it feels good to me.
my car has practically no suspension travel, the rear wheels weigh almost 30 lbs (without tires), the offsets of my wheels are way too low, the tires are way too small for my wheels, and my car hasn't seen an alignment rack in months(other than my own eye).
but I still won every event in colorado this year (not like thats saying much), and placed 1st and 3rd in the two out of state events that I've driven in my own car.
says alot for a well setup suspension.

these 'basic racing suspension dynamic fundamentals' ceratainly mean something, but in most cases, unless you're building a car for head to head, really competetive racing (like 99% of the people on this forum AREN't doing), none of this stuff really makes a difference.
everyone just listens to RETed, because he's an FC PRO, and everything he says is fact.


so, why don't we just get back to what this thread was designed for - what fits, and what doesn't.

I'll let you know when I put on my 15 x 7, +25 offset wheels if drivability goes out the window. Where I live, roads get real bad, real fast, and I'll see if I have to chase the steering around turns or driving over ruts/bumps/holes, etc.

I do have power steering so this should be interesting.

Which events did you win? Drifting or Time Trials/AutoX?

We got a hint something was bad when a shop in Japan offered steel hubs - the stock FC hubs are aluminum.
When we started digging into the matter, racers (not necessarily drifters) were killing the stock aluminum hubs in one year.
The steel hubs lasted 3 years.
Take it however you want.


You're right.
But...
Just because YOU don't notice the difference doesn't mean that NOTHING changed.
Agreed?


Actually, I do.
I can feel the difference between my 15 lbs. GAB Sport wheels versus a set of Kouki FC turbo wheels @ 17 lbs.
I can DEFINITELY feel the difference between my 15 lbs. GAB Sport wheels versus a set of Zenki FC wheels @ 27 lbs.
I can feel the difference between 0 toe versus 1/16" toe-out versus 1/16" toe-in - I've run them all.
I can feel the difference between -1 degree of camber versus -2.5 degree of camber - this is why I have camber plates.
DON'T assume what everyone else can or cannot feel.


You're could be right...
But...
There is still very real physics and dynamics behind all of it.
To ignore that fact is just plain stupid.
References are all out there - you just need to search for it.
Understanding how everything works is more power to you.


And this brings up a good point...
The driver needs to feel comfortable with the car's set-up.
Unless we're talking about serious racing in which you need to wring out every ounce of power and every last thousandths of a second, driver's comfort with the set-up is very important.
Which brings up the thing about drifting...
Since this is NOT about power and NOT about going fast, most of you drifters ignore these points...


Congrads to you.
Regardless, it's still competition, and you did very well.


I really don't give a shit whether you listen to me or not.
If you are going to tell me that I don't know what the fuck I'm talking about, I will vigorously defend my comments.
In fact, I still think I'm on most people's ignore list by now.
I'm just like you: I'm just adding my 2 cents to the discussion.
You can take it, or you can leave it.
Don't insult me like that, cause you're basically telling yourself to shut the fuck up.


-Ted

One big effect of scrub radius that most people will feel is steering effort and tramlining. Increasing the scrub radius will increase both of these significantly. When going from stock wheels at 40mm to my 17's at 30mm I can feel a significant difference in tramlining (I'll not go into effort due to the difference in tires). With power steering you'll feel the effort change less, but the tramlining will still be apparent.

Going to lower offsets also effectively makes the suspension softer, as there's a larger lever arm.

While drifting isn't racing and people think that racing suspension fundamentals don't apply, you could still learn a lot from real racers and get suspension setups that allow you to go faster more consistently with more confidence.

... i have a feeing that im not one of those 5 people... :suspect:

Holy Smokes 99 pages. I've read about 40 pages and still have questions.

I'd like to run at least a 265 rear tire on an 18" rim. What width and offset would I need? I'd like to see pics of anyone who has run this setup. I've heard a whole lot of "I've done this" bit haven't seen any pics yet. I'd also like to hear what people are running up front with this setup as well. Like I said though, I've read 40 pages so far, and I'm so darn confused now, I can't stand it. Tons of great info, but I think this thread is WAY TOO LONG ;) Thanks in advance guys.

...100 pages.. soon

..

UPDATE: Just put my 15 x 7, +25 rims (Mustang wheels) on with shitty tires.....

The car definitely wants to track at every rut in the road, it's much worse than when I have my RE-01R's on a 16 x 7, +35 offset wheel. Steering effort has increased slightly through the PS system, it's slight but noticeable. I do think that grip is definitely better than if the wheel was more inwards, but there are a lot of other side effects.

My car is lowered a small bit and is on the stock rims.

I'm looking at 5zigen fn01r-c.

Can I go 17x7 +42 front, 17x8 +35 in the rear? Will that look alright? It will see mild track use.

I know this has been asked 100000 times but I'm concerned because I don't know exactly how lowered I am. It can't be anymore than 2 inches. Probably less.

Thank you!

Go for 17x8's all around with 225/45/17's. Either the +35's or the +25's will fit. It'll be a better setup for the track with less understeer than if you did a stagger.

If you want 265's on 18's then I'd suggest going with as wide a tire in front as you can to minimise the understeer that the large rears will induce.

here are some pics of my FN01R-Cs on my 7. it really needs to be lowered a bit...

http://userpages.umbc.edu/~migol1/RX...t/new%20wheel/

17x8 +35, 225/45 in front
17x10 +35, 255/40 in back

Did you use anything other than the wheels to get them to fit? Damn that looks good.

nope, no spacers, no rolled fenders

Yes, but you are also not lowered from the looks of it.

It looks very flush to me. I read that some guys have 275's on that exact rim and no mods needed. How are they getting these to fit. Doesnt seem to me like it would. Can we get a pic of your fronts straight on with the tire not turned?

Per the offset calculator: (Using the stock 16x7 +40mm)

17x8 +25 will give me +2mm inner clearence and the wheels will extend +28mm
17x8 +35 will give me -8mm inner clearence and the wheel will extend +18mm

In my front I'm already almost hitting the fender liner at full bank to bank wheel turn. I'm not even worried about tire sizes yet because there is like 30 different tire sizes that can fit on any wheel. One of those is bound to work.

The rears have plenty of room on them, will either of those stick out the back?

Thanks guys! Just planning my spring project! (Needed to buy tires, figured I'll treat myself to wheels at the same time :))

I'll take some inside wheel well pics when it STOPS FRIGGING RAINING.

Is there a way I can tell how lowered I am? Some measurement somewhere?

Attachment 700022

There is a guy running my same setup on his car with Tein S techs and he says it never rubs. they drop the car an inch and are notoriously soft springs. I don't know about 275s, you might be able to fit them with coil overs and rolled fenders.

I'll try to get a pic of the fronts strait next time I go to where my car is. probably this weekend.

Well those offsets on those widths are known to work with a 225 wide tire, so you should be fine. Sure there are many sizes that fit, but the 225/45/17 is a common size with lots of tire choice, it's the right diameter and is about as wide as you can guarantee will fit in front. A 235/40/17 should fit as well, but there's less wiggle room.

Eagle8, could you do me a favor and measure the gap between your rear tire and the trailing arm where there is the least clearance?

I have been trying to figure out if the 17x10 +35 and 275 tire will fit. It is really close by the measurements...

Easiest way I have found to measure is take something like a fuel hose and cut it down until it just fits between tire/trailing arm and measure its length.

Thanks!

hello everyone,

17x7 40+ Front
17x9 40+ Rear

will they fit with stock suspension on a 90 gtu? whats the widest tire available for each?

Started reading through the posts but im falling asleep at my desk, so a little help is greattly appreciated.

Rob

16x7, +40 on a 205 is stock size so:

17x7, +40 on a 205 will fit, no issues
17x7, +40 on a 225 maybe uncomfortably close. I run spacers on my 16x7, +40, 225.

17x9, +40, may require spacers as well.