Thanks, it seems like going with a 9.5 is pushing the front to it's limits.

For wanting to stay with unrolled fenders and not really having to play with suspension much, yea pretty much. If you want to start pushing things you can get a 10.5-11" wide wheel up front with a 285-295, but it takes some work. But for what you want a 9.5 +45 with a 255/35 will fit like a glove.

Just remember that if it is close, throw in some negative camber. you will be fine.

18x9.5 +30 with 245/35/18 no rubbing at all.

I also run the 18x9.5 +45 all the way around. I did a fender roll and sit on 265/35. I did a track day at Sebring with no issues.

I'd just plan to roll your fenders. I've seen them catch with relatively un-aggressive setups, and once that happens you're fucked.

feed fenders in front... pulled fenders in the rear.
wheels are 18x10.5 +22 all around
front tires are 265/35 18 toyo r1r (in this pic) i now changed it to a 255/35 18 r888
rear tires are 295/30 18 toyo r888

i eventually want to go 11.5 in the rear with a higher offset and some 315's or something

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3882/...1b5274e0_b.jpg

You guys think I could get away with a 18x10+38 up front with a 265/35 for track use?

I think it will depend on how low your ride height is and what tires you go with. I'm running 18x10 +35 up front with 265/35 A048s. The tires are right at the edge with no wheel gap, but it doesn't rub.

You guys think I could get away with a 18x10+38 up front with a 265/35 for track use?


I raced with that 18x10.5 +38 with 265/35-18 on stock rear fenders and the front fender lips rolled under and maxed front camber- no problems.

If you were to order 18x10.5 wheels to run all the way around, what offset would you choose. Im thinking +44. Suggestions?

the farthest you can go in from the hub is about 186mm. +52MM is the max I would go in for a 10.5" wheel.

I think ideal would be +50MM to keep the scrub radius the same.

I run a +42MM 18x11.5" front and rear with 285/30/18 with about -2 degrees camber up front maybe a little less -1.3 degrees rear.


I have run and still do run 18x10 +38mm 265/35/18 front and rear. The front does rub the fender liner some. I am 25" front and 25.25" or so rear ride height.

Did you have your Nt03s widened or were they ever produced in that size?

If you were to order 18x10.5 wheels to run all the way around, what offset would you choose. Im thinking +44. Suggestions?
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Since the offset centers the tire between the fender lip and the suspension, it starts to depend on how much camber you are going to run on what offset you want.

More negative camber pulls the top of the tire closer to the suspension.

If you KNOW the car will primarily be street driven and only up to -1deg front camber I would opt for a +50mm offset on a 18x10.5 if you want to fit the widest tire possible.

If the car will be tracked or auto-x as well and so have an aggressive alignment with ~2-2.4deg front camber I would go shallower with the offset like you say +44mm on that 18x10.5 to fit the widest tire possible.

You should be able to run a 295 without too much work and the right alignment/offset.

I guess if you go for a higher offset like +50 and then re-purpose the car for competition you can add a 5mm spacer. But if you know what you want from the start it sure is nice to run without spacers.

widened, yes.

You can widen 18x10 +38 wheels to 11" wide and they will also fit perfect on the car front and rear, if you do get too close to the coilover spring or rear trailing arm, run small spacers, but I think you will be fine.



the 11.5" width is perfect for the 295/30/18 AD08R with a 11.5" tread width. or the others which have 11.2-11.3 tread widths.

you can also widen a 9.5 +38 to 10.5" (end up being +50mm offset).

How expensive is it to widen wheels?

Obviously it will be somewhat dependent on where its done, but I believe I paid $150 each to widen a set of 18" aluminum wheels.

I'm running 18X9.5 +45 Enkei RPF1's with 275/35/18 Toyo R888's on all four corners.

I'm lowered on Tein coil-overs on stock fenders, pulled and rolled.

Attachment 633948

Would I recommend it? Ehhhh....not really.

These wheels are just loaners from my boss at work (awesome boss, right?)... Otherwise I wouldn't normally run something so wide up front.

I can turn fully, but I do hear the tire lightly scrape against the fender liner plastic a little bit sometimes. The fender liners are admittedly a little beat up and the clip/mounting points had to be cut when I had the fenders rolled which is probably why/when it scrapes. Otherwise, it might actually be just fine.

I have a friend who ran 285/35's on his LS1-FD on stock fenders and never scrubbed but he was at stock ride height.

If you are lowered at all, be warned.

On stock fenders, lowered...I wouldn't recommend more than 255/35/18 personally. Just for the sake of it.

255/35/18 on a 9.5" rim is a perfect fitment, btw. The 275/35's do balloon a little bit.

Hoping to get some ccw 18x11 +47 in the spring time

Hi guys

Im wheel shopping and had a fitment question. I am dumb with this stuff so I appreciate the help.

I am on megan coilovers, trailing arms ect and have rolled rear fenders, otherwise im stock bodied.

I've read and believe the most aggressive I can run is the following-

18x11+50 in the rear with r888 295/30r18

18x9.5 +48 in the front with idk tire. Car has 245s right now and tramlines (sp?) pretty badly

Will these fit?

Can I go more aggressive?



Thanks

I would run a 18x11 + 45mm offset. With an 11" +50mm you will be pushing the rear very close to the rear trailing arm, especially with a 295 tire (you can run this front and rear).

you are getting into the area of literally measuring out the tire width and section width on a 295/30/18 tire to ensure fitment (some 295's are extremely wide like the AD08r and PS2).

I am running a 18x11.5" wheel with +42MM offset with 285 tire and tread width of 11". the tire is very close to the rear trailing arm. You will also need aftermarket coilovers (which you have). hopefully the springs aren't overally large.

Tramlining can happens with large + scrub radius, you want the offset to be close to stock +50mm as possible. width can make tramlining worse with + scrub radius.

If you want aggressive I suggest going with a 18x11 +45mm offset and a wide 285/30/18 tire or conservative 295/30/18 tire. tirerack or the tire manufacturers typically post the tread and section widths of the tires.

The max I have found going in from the hub is 185MM ish.

I have found I could get away with a 18x11 +50mm front (might rub a tiny bit at full lock on the spring, and run a small rear 3-5mm spacer to push the rear wheels out from rubbing. up to you.

Here is that 18x11 +45 with 295 in front and rear on my car. This FD is raced- full suspension stroke is used with no rubbing (well, top of tire tread does bottom on top of plastic fender liner at full compression- had to zip tie the wire harness up.)
https://www.rx7club.com/attachments/...-side-rear-jpg

https://www.rx7club.com/attachments/...ont-fender-jpg

Thanks for the replies guys

Lol, this is some confusing stuff! I do prefer a more aggressive offset so I'm happy to go lower than +50.

The only reason I'm going for the 295 r888 is that I'm making 540rwhp and over 500rwtq, so traction (or lack thereof) really is an issue for me.

So 18x11 +45 with a narrow 295 should work and for the rear.

For the front I need a +50 offset so 18x10? Would that make a 255 or 265 work?

are you driving on the street? do more drag racing or road course type stuff?


If drag racing I suggest going with a smaller diameter wheel and running a lower PSI to elongate the contact patch, if road course and want to rotate, go with 18x11 front and rear and 295/30/18 or 285/30/18.

99% Street driving. Some drag racing but I also like to throw it into turns at times.

Don't care to rotate and would prefer staggered setup.