so what two size sockets do you need to remove the diff bushings? I know you need the 1 11/16inch socket and another size? Also can you push from the outside in, or only from the inside out?

Thanks

damm i wish i was still in high school so i can just make all the right size sockets for all the bushings.

okay nevermind I got the old ones out...they press out either way.

Just another report:

I used the Harbor Freight 3-in-1 tool (not this, but the same thing for $40 without the three parts starting from the bottom-left in the picture: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=4065) today to replace all 6 pillow balls in my rear suspension. I used the big c-clamp and one of the "muffin" things, but I didn't use any of the receiver tubes. My sockets seemed to be a better fit for the arms. Compared to my orginal technique (http://maxcooper.com/rx7/how-to/susp...lls/index.html), the C-clamp has some advantages and disadvantages. Once you have everything lined up, it it is nice to not have to deal with washers bending or running out of threads on a bolt. But it is harder to line up since the c-clamp is heavy and there is no bolt going through the middle to keep everything in place. I think I will use the bolts and washers again next time if I still don't have a proper shop with space for a press.

Some of the pillow balls were quite loose and others didn't seem so bad, and the pattern was not symmetrical. I'm not sure why, but I've got all new ones now. The Unobtanium nylon bushings in my trailing links seem to be holding up pretty well (no noticable play). But I did notice some play in the bushing on the body side of the lower lateral link in my passenger side suspension. And the other side moved very freely, though I couldn't detect any play by moving the arm with my hands. I've got a spare one of those links -- perhaps I will swap it into the passenger side.

Did anyone see this HF doo-dad?: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42496

HF needs to come out with a $100 set of corner scales. :) The cheapest ones that I know of are available from Pegasus and they use what looks like bathroom scales with wheel pads on levers that distribute known proportions of the pad weight between the ground and the scale. $400, IIRC.

-Max

max, did u use the bolts and washers method for removing and installing the unobtanium bushings as well?

No, a friend with a press helped me with the Unobtanium install. I don't think I would attempt to replace any of the other bushings with the bolts and washers. The give in the rubber would be too frustrating. :)

-Max

Damn for some reaon my 12ton will not rmove any of the bushings :( Not sure why.

Keep in mind that 12 tons=24,000 pounds. If the bushings are not budging then surely there is something wrong with the way the parts are fixtured.

What exactly is happening?

I just cannot press them out, the bottle jack just does not move/pump anymore and gets very hard to pump. Thats about the best I can describe it.

Eyecandy

Your bottle jack might be low on oil. Does it leak ?

Mine needed oil added. On the back of the bottle jack is a rubber plug. Fill it up.

Jack

I will have to check that out, the things brand new (well 4months old).

I wouldn't assume that was the problem, especially based on age. When a jack is low on fluid, usually the handle moves freely and the jack just doesn't go anywhere. When you're trying to move an immovable object, though, it will get very hard (if not impossible) to pump the handle. That's usually when something like this happens...

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...id=94205&stc=1

Make sure you're pressing the bushings out in the right direction, and that the socket or sleeve that you're using isn't interfering with the movement of the bushing. The sleeve or socket you're pressing into must clear the bushing completely, and the sleeve or socket that you're pressing on must clear the edges of the control arm. Finally, make sure the bushing doesn't have a flange on the side that you're pressing against. The "flange" on the bushing in the picture above was created after it stopped moving... :D

Hope that helps.

Jim, any comment on how the all pillow ball suspension compairs to the nylon bushing suspension. Is it a noticeable difference in terms “slop” in the suspension?
Dan

Nylon will have a little more "give" to it, but very little. A pillow-ball suspension is basically a racing suspension.

BicuspiD could give you a better idea of the ride quality of the metal-on-metal bushings. I never drove my car with them installed. Of the three cars I drove with my Nylon bushings, none felt any different than stock, and I didn't notice any more noise than usual.

That’s what I figured. I’m just wondering how much of a difference on a track car the pillow ball bushings make. I don’t believe it would be much since the nylon should deflect little more than the pillow ball bushings (especially when compared to stock rubber bushings). But like you said earlier, the increase in cost is significant and for what is probably little gain. That said, pillow balls is definitely the more professional way to do it.
Dan

Does any have have the pics that are missing from the write up backed up somewhere?

+1 to that, it's not long since they have gone either.

If a moderator wants to edit this thread (and the duplicate thread in the archives), I'll be happy to look up the missing pictures.

They weren't attached to this thread because it was created during the period when the forum was so overloaded that you'd often time-out while trying to upload. If the picture uploaded successfully before the time-out occurred, you'd get a message on retry saying that the picture name already existed. I ended up hosting some of them, but I no longer have that account, hence the missing pictures. :)

That would be great, many thanks.

Shoot me the new links in a PM. The easier you make it for me to get it updated the quicker I can do it ;)

Links to pictures updated and thread copied once again into the archive.

Awesome write-up here. It will be even better with the missing photos.

I just pressed out the "damper" bushing from a rear lower lateral link - not that hard to remove as Jim described it, but pressing the new one in isn't so easy. A 1-7/16" or 38mm socket works perfectly for pressing out, but you need a bigger socket to press back in, and there is no flat metal surface on the bushing to press against - the only way I can figure out to make it work is to have the socket press against the four rubber "bumpers" on the flange side of the bushing. This makes it pretty unstable on the press since the rubber bumpers allow the whole assembly to move around, and it's hard to keep the socket centered. Big time PITA!

Has anybody else done this bushing? Is there any trick to this that I'm missing? I already destroyed one new bushing trying to use the 38mm socket to press back in. It fits tight just inside the bumpers, but as soon as you apply any force, it works its way down into the metal sleeve and stretches it. Likewise, using a huge socket that fits snug around the outside of the bumpers just bends the flange.

FWIW, all of the other rear bushings were comparatively easy...

Make sure that the bushing bore is smooth and free of burrs, then use some some soapy water on the bushing bore and the bushing to reduce friction while pressing it into place.

After trying a socket (which cut and deformed the outer rubber ring a little, although the bushing did go in) I used a flat block of billet aluminum with a hole drilled in the center large enough to allow the center "spindle" of the bushing to protrude, and pressed against the full surface area of the bushing flange.

FWIW, the Mazda SST (special service tool) for installing that bushing (Page R-43 of your shop manual) does exactly that.

Couldn't you just use a c-clamp to press the bushings out? From what I've heard you can rent a bushing press from autozone which is really nothing more then a c-clamp.

Thanks for the info, Jim. I did use soapy water per the FSM and the bore looks pretty smooth. I got the bushing a little over half-way in on my last attempt, while the socket was working down into the sleeve - I wasn't paying enough attention after all the other bushings that went in smoothly. If I can just press on it without tearing up the rubber bumpers or having it pop out of the press, I think it will go in easy. I'll see what I can find to spread the load better.

What direction to press out the front lower arm???

Now you get to fix the links to the pictures that were already attached to the thread. :p:

From the inside out.

Thanks JimLab...got it.
I was wondering if you knew of a place to get a rear lower arm bushing?? I removed mine, and then realized it was part of my Delrin kit.

The inner damper bushing? It's not replaced by any of the available kits and has to stay OEM. Give Ray Crowe a call.

Ray Crowe
Parts Manager
Malloy Mazda
(888) 533-3400

Awww jim whats up...cant you whip a couple up for me ;)
Why arent they avaliable??

The range of motion requires a pillow bushing.

Question about trailing arms/bushings.

I have new bushings from Mazdacomp. They have white dot on a rubber. Does it indicate mounting position?

Are those arms simmetrical? Do they differ left/right? I noticed that bigger rubber lip on bushing faces outside of a car.

Unless they came with specific instructions, no, not according to the shop manual (~75MB download).

The bottom of page R-38 shows removal and replacement of the "bushing". Although they don't specify it as the trailing link, you can tell by the shape of the arm in the pictures.

Yes. The trailing links are listed as PN FD15-28-50X or PN FD16-28-50X, and the only difference is whether you have an R-model ("hard" suspension) or not ("normal" suspension). You can install them on either side of the car.

Jim, what's the difference between the "hard" and "normal" trailing arms? From talking to Ray Crowe, I know Mazda does not offer the trailing arm bushings separately - you have to buy the whole arm to get a new OEM bushing. Is the bushing the only difference between the two parts?

Also, I installed mine with the "lip" towards the center of the car. Is that the correct orientation? The FSM doesn't specify which direction it should face, but the drawing sorta looks like the lip goes towards the outside of the car, not the center. I wonder what difference it makes, if any, because the bushing appears to be symmetrical otherwise.

Yes, "hard" = R1/R2.

None. If it were directional, they'd tell you. They do everywhere else in the manual. :)

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1179524754

Yes, Mazda don't sell those bushings separately. I bought Mazda Speed bushings $110 for the pair from CorkSport a month ago. Ray said he can't get MazdaSpeed parts.

When I took my trailing arms out - lip were facing outside of the car. I will put it back that way also it doesn't seem to make any difference.

Does Mazdaspeed make a bushing??

No, not to my knowledge. That's not one of the bushings that needs improvement, and it's the same part for all models.

Mazdaspeed does make a damper bushing. Part # F128-28-460. I only went with MS for the trailing arm bushings.

Mazda Motorsports members can buy slightly firmer than stock trailing arm bushings. The part number is available, I know I've listed it here on this site several times.

I bought them from Corksport for $110

bump.......

would using a 12ton hydraulic press be sufficient or should i go with the 20ton?

12 ton is good enough

Great resource for bushing work!

I used a 6.5 ton non-hydrolic arbor press to do my fronts. So far so good.

Alternative way to press out upper control arm bushings
 

I couldn’t get my bushings out with a 12 ton press using this method, so I thought I’d show you what worked for me… I used a hole saw to cut the rubber portion out of one of the bushings, and then pressed each one out linearly.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0ec071799.jpeg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b6a4cff33.jpeg
This thread has been incredibly helpful, so I just wanted to do my part to add to it. Thanks!