I couldn't find it in the thread, but can someone list the leading and trailing piston diameters for the RB fronts?
Thanks, Heath |
Gee, you couldn't find it somewhere in the 1500 posts? :)
sure, i can help you.... the front RB pistons are 38 and 36 MM dia. that makes overall piston area (front) 6.66 sq inches V stock at 6.335 the stock FD longitudinal total brake effort is 68% front 32% rear the RB balance (w the larger rear rotor) is close at 70% 30% just a front AP caliper w a 13 inch rotor results in a 74% 26% (im)balance i continue to love my RB setup. please do keep in mind that FD uprated brake performance turns on a larger more efficient front rotor mass and more rotor leverage in the rear and a longitudinal balance between piston area. there is actually not much wrong w the FD front caliper, just the rotor mass. howard |
Originally Posted by Howard Coleman CPR
(Post 10414375)
Gee, you couldn't find it somewhere in the 1500 posts? :)
sure, i can help you.... the front RB pistons are 38 and 36 MM dia. that makes overall piston area (front) 6.66 sq inches V stock at 6.335 the stock FD longitudinal total brake effort is 68% front 32% rear the RB balance (w the larger rear rotor) is close at 70% 30% just a front AP caliper w a 13 inch rotor results in a 74% 26% (im)balance i continue to love my RB setup. please do keep in mind that FD uprated brake performance turns on a larger more efficient front rotor mass and more rotor leverage in the rear and a longitudinal balance between piston area. there is actually not much wrong w the FD front caliper, just the rotor mass. howard |
Ah also, does anyone know the pad height and width for the fronts? I cant find a pad diagram for it... I'm most interested to know the height of the pad itself (no backing plate). Trying to do a few calculations here.
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Originally Posted by rotormotor
(Post 10415298)
i've been looking for a prop valve graph but so far nada.
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So are the DTC-70s still the one to have for a serious track fd? I have f&r racing brake bbk and stock master cylinder. My ET700s are fading and feel very mushy with long pedal and bad initial bite.
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Originally Posted by aoc007
(Post 10526063)
So are the DTC-70s still the one to have for a serious track fd? I have f&r racing brake bbk and stock master cylinder. My ET700s are fading and feel very mushy with long pedal and bad initial bite.
-ch |
Sounds good. I also probably need to change the ATE as it is a few years old. I'm at about 2830lbs with me in it and 315 rwhp.
I've heard some people say that DTC-70 has too much initial bite? Maybe this was a different car though. |
Originally Posted by aoc007
(Post 10526133)
Sounds good. I also probably need to change the ATE as it is a few years old. I'm at about 2830lbs with me in it and 315 rwhp.
I've heard some people say that DTC-70 has too much initial bite? Maybe this was a different car though. At 120 MPH you're covering about 180 feet per second. For my money, I want to load that front axle quickly so I can take full advantage of big brakes and sticky tires. -ch |
Ah yes, good point. I think that I will try the 70's because I have the stock master, if I had a 929 I might try the 60's. But I'd like to remove the ABS and go to dual masters soon, the car is becoming track only.
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Oh one thing to note, I can't find the DTC-70 for the stock rear caliper (RB BBK). Is it ok to run the front with DTC-70 and rear with DTC-60? Or will this mess up the bias? Thanks
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Originally Posted by aoc007
(Post 10529301)
Oh one thing to note, I can't find the DTC-70 for the stock rear caliper (RB BBK). Is it ok to run the front with DTC-70 and rear with DTC-60? Or will this mess up the bias? Thanks
BTW: this is what I'm running. :-) neil |
Ah I see, so will the fronts tend to lock before the rear given the more immediate torque? And this is more stable or safe?
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It is always more safe & stable to have front tires lock up before the rears on a short wheelbase car like the FD. Half of good braking is having properly matched tires to work with the brakes. Something to think about. It is perfectly normal to run a low to mid friction pad in the front, with a low friction control pad in the rear on the FD.
If you have extremely good brakes and your tires are crap, you will always lock under 90% to full pedal pressure. Nothing wrong with the brakes in that case, other parts of the car need to be modified. |
using the RB big brake kit, will the stock brake cylinder work with the kit?
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Yes, the pedal will have a bit longer of a throw, so try it out and if you don't like it you can go to the 929 master cylinder.
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I'm resurrecting this thread because I'm looking for OE-size performance rotors and upon contacting Racing Brake they can offer a 4-wheel set for a great price but only if 10 or more sets are ordered...
So I decided to create a GB for these! OE size only, full floating, 2-pc, open slot. Hopefully we can get to 10 or more sets. I got approval for the GB and it's here: https://www.rx7club.com/group-buy-center-69/gb-racing-brake-oem-size-2-piece-performance-rotors-1000219/ Anyone need new brakes?? |
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