Cryogenically Treated Drilled Rotors
 

Alright, I'm hoping this isn't going to be a dead horse beater, but we'll see. So I've searched around, both on the forums, and on about as many Google search results as I could bear to go through with no real direct answer to this specific question.

I'm very familiar with slotted rotors, specifically Power Slot Cryo's, and I'm a proponent of their product. However, there is definitely a drawback I personally see (which isn't so bad, but is the basis behind this question), being their propensity to eat up pads at an accelerated rate. So... my question is about cryo treated drilled rotors (from the manufacture, not some aftermarket/after thought job). Obviously drilled rotors are their own bag of issues, namely the cracking under hard use, but they do 80% or so of the cooling that slots provide, without leaving you with knackered pads nearly as often.

I'd prefer a direct answer if possible. I've heard the many, many arguments that lead to "just go with the slotted or blank cryo's," but haven't heard anyone really give any pertinent information towards whether the cryogenically treated drilled rotors are a viable option above stock, but below the aforementioned higher performance, but more costly in the long run, cryo slots... Any real world experience from track-day/pure track/autocrossers would be very appreciated and welcomed.

Thanks guys, hope to hear from someone soon.

I think all of us track guys simply save the additional $$ for another set of blanks when the times comes :lol:

On the other hand, cryo rotors have been holding up better on a friends tracked evo. He has been able to get a few more track days out of the cryo rotors (still blanks) compared with factory blanks before they start cracking.

I appreciate the feedback, but to be honest that isn't exactly telling me what I'd like to know about the drilled cryo's... Anyone else?

Bump.

Also, if I don't hear anything here, then I may repay the thread to the 2nd generation specific general forum. If that has some conflict of forum rules then may I ask a moderator to somehow move it on over for me? It'd be much appreciated. I suppose I could also merely provide a link to this page if that works too.

Most guys won't use cross-drilled rotors on track because of their reputation for cracking under high-heat use.

I ran over a dozen road race days with Racing Brake open-slot rotors, and tried a few different pad compounds out. RB/Hawk and Endless. Didn't notice any abnormal pad wear. This was on their BBK though, so much larger pads than OEM for the upgraded calipers.

I've heard Porsche 911 GT3 guys at the track complaining about their OEM drilled rotors... I wouldn't go near them, blanks work just fine.

Are you having issues with your brakes on the track? What prompted this thread?

Thanks GoodFella. I guess what I've been reading and have heard about slotted isn't all necessarily true... I would prefer the slotted for the initial bite in and better out gassing for sure. However, I'm still generally curious about any information about the cracking issue with drilled cryo's...

Eage8, I plan on tracking my car at some point, however currently I just street... drive it. I've got Hawk HPS', DOT 4 fluid, stainless lines, rebuilt calipers, and all riding on blank stock rotors. They're starting to get a bit of run-out which I don't care for... And I have actually encountered a bit of fade under... strenuous driving. It's not easy, but it is possible. My largest complaint is the bite, they work great when initially heated and maintain superbly well for what they are. It's after continuous back road driving that the bite fades.

Anywho, that would be the reasoning behind completing the overall package. I don't really feel like an upgrade beyond the stock units is necessary, I just want to get the most out of them as possible.

The issues you're describing are all pad and fluid issues/changes and not rotors. Putting the same size cryo rotors with holes/slots/magic won't change a thing when it comes to what you're describing.

While I run slotted rotors on my car at the track, it's mostly due to availbility. The rotors that will last the longest without cracks are going to be QUALITY blank replacements.

Yeah, it sounds like a pad issue to me, or possibly fluid depending on what DOT 4 you're using.

HPSs are street pads, you'll burn then up on the track in short order. HP+ is the bare minimum I would run on the track, for a turbo I would go with full track pads like HAWK DTC-60s or Carbotechs XP12s. But you can't really street drive those...

Even my corolla which is like 2200 lbs w/ ~140whp had issues with HPSs on the track, I now run HP+s on it on the front.

for the brake fluid look at the wet boiling point. Most people use ATE Super blue DOT4:
ATE Super Blue Racing Fluid

I tossed the HPS's in the trash, they are no good for Auto-x or any kind of hard driving. HP+ was a world of difference.

Are they okay for street use in your experience?

^Yes, they're perfectly fine for 'normal' street driving :nod:

Yup, I have them on my rallycross car, my rx7 for street driving and the rear brakes on my corolla (Hawk doesn't make anything else lol)