Brake Booster Delete - Thoughts?
 

Never seen one of these before so I thought I'd throw it out there for discussion!

http://www.chasebays.com/product/uni...ter-eliminator

Interesting.... perhaps there would be more interest in the audio/visual section?

I've seen them before, I mean for a DD or street driven car its def overkill. It just eliminates the power assist, the same if you were to go with a manual steering rack.

I would consider doing something like that just to clean up the engine bay if I swap out my PS for a manual steering rack.

Thinking the same thing.

It looks like you give up some "street safety" with the apparent elimination of the dual master cylinder. Hmmm... I kinda like my power brakes with ABS on a street driven car.

If I had ABS on my vert, I wouldn't do it either.

someone should ask, dual circuit master cylinder is a must!

my other car is a 58 Tr3, and its got no booster and the brakes are great! it feels way better with a little more effort than the average mazda, but its not bad at all.

however the single circuit brake is exciting when it fails.

I converted my 59 Austin Healey Sprite to a complete later brake system from an MG Midget to get away from the single circuit that used to feed 6 wheel cylinders(2 in each front wheel). You can set up a nice dual master set up with a similar plate and a bias bar behind it.

Plug up your vacuum port from the manifold and take it out for a test drive to see if you like it.

Instead of starting a new thread....

I thought about running a chasebays set per the one in the link. I am not "mr. knowitall" when it comes to brake setups, witch setup acts this way witch setup acts that way ect... Running the said setup vs the dual circuit setup like j9fd3s mentioned, what is the difference? Im not looking for the greatest setup as i do not road race but i do stop from high mph back to 15ish mph in very short amount of time (1/4 mile). I drive on the street alot but really not worried how it acts on the street. Im not saying "idc if my brakes work or not", idc if there a little firmer than stock and take a bit more pedal pressure to stop. Im mainly wanting a setup like this to make the engine bay cleaner, roomyer. If someone can eleborate on this situation that HAD/HAS experience with multiple brake combinations please chim in. Thanks

i'm not an expert either i just happen to own a car with no power brakes!

there is math involved, basically you are translating the pedal effort to hydraulic force at the wheel. so you have to do some math, as there is a pedal ratio, and the sizing of the master cylinder and brake calipers to think about.

the info is actually all in the FSM's, but the math is tricky to find. you might have to go find a racecar design book.

dual circuit is a safety item. old cars have one circuit. so one brake cylinder actuates all four wheels, my Tr3 uses the same master cylinder for the clutch and the brakes. so when it fails you have no brakes at all. which is scary.

a dual circuit uses 2 masters (its usually a single master with 2 internal pistons) so that the front and the rear are on separate hydraulic circuits. so if something fails, you have 2 wheels to stop. this is not scary at all.

in the 80's volvo had a diagonal system so i think in the event of a failure you always had a front and an opposite rear. i guess it didn't have much benefit over the dual circuit, because they don't do it anymore.

so you always want to run a dual circuit system, however if you size the master cylinder correctly the booster isn't needed. jgrewe has posted the master cylinder sizes for the FC/FD in the race car forum.

Since you asked for thoughts, I think you guys are nuts to do this on a street car. :)

"power"/boosted brakes and ABS will save your ass when it needs saving.
+ it will be easier to drive.

INteresting, I have a few friends that run a single system in hondas...but its a honda, hell you can stop them flinstone style. I see were there is math involved and actually have done a few break setups on hot rods but them are more like OEM style setups and cars you cruiser around in. THe wheels in my head are turning. Ive been looking at pedal setup systems w/ all the "junk" reversed so its under the dash. At the moment im fairly lost, going to dig deeper in research.

I can see were you come from on the "street" idea. It seems like a safty issue but i would have to think, if done correctly i should feel safe and confident when i hit the pedal :lol:. Power brakes are probably easier to cope with and abs could save my ass but i dont drive my car in the rain/snow. My daily driver has No ABS, and the clutch is un-spring and the fingers are welded togther, You have to stand on it to make it move. So with that being said, basically a 600hp 4in exhaust rotary powerd rocket with non-power assisted brakes is a HELL of alot more civil than my open downpipe, gas leak on the inside of the car, no carpet, wind sheild leaks so you have to wear garbage bags, holes drilled in the floor board to drain water, shoes get wet when driving in rain, 3 diff size tires, no turn signals, 1 wiper speed, totaled twice never fixed, hit by semi in rear, drivers window dont roll all the way up, Civic......

I will be running a dual mc wilwood setup!

Totally streetable especially with a prop valve...

PIcs, ideas, microsfot paint drawings lol, links, ect please???

have you ever driven a car without power brakes? i wouldn't be surprised if the answer was no, its been 50 years since you could buy one new.

really though if you came over and took the Tr3 for a drive and i didn't tell you it was manual brakes, you'd never be able to tell.

i'm not going to argue about the ABS, on the triumph you'd have to lean out and get the wheel unlocked yourself (its within reach, so you could....)

:lol:

lmao i was going to say, its a drag race honda, just put a stick thru the floor fred flinstone style!

the shell we're building up right now was about to be a drag race shell, and um the front brakes they were going to use are smaller than the brakes on your bicycle....

think about it, in a drag race the brakes only have to work once. so they aren't even streetable really.

i had time to think about doing it last time i locked up a wheel!

Im planing on lighting my car as much as posibul, and im wondering if I lighten my car enough how hard would it be to stop or would I even notice that much?

With the proper sized masters you would only notice you have a more consistant feeling pedal. You can change the master sizes so you could stop the car with your big toe if you wanted.

would I have to make the master cylinder bigger or smaller to make it easyer?

A smaller diameter master cylinder would be easier, but you would have to push the pedal farther to get the same effect.