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Bleeder screws seized | SS Stainless Steel Brake Lines Calipers Cylinder
FC3S - This was supposed to be a simple SS Brake Lines replacement . . . . Upgraded to Stainless Steel Brake lines. SS Brake lines. Found out that the rear driver side caliper needed rebuild due to leaks. Replaced. - Both rear calipers. Found out that the Master Cylinder crapped out during the process. Replaced. Now . . . Both front calipers' bleeder screw seized and snapped. About 2 year old rebuilt. Have been bled before with np. - How often does this happen? Anyone experienced this and what's the solution? - Cause of seize? - What's next? New calipers? Bled using the lines before the hose. (Had no choice..) What'r the effects? Right now the pedal goes halfway and the car stops there, but it feels spongy and as if the brakes are going bad . . . This needs to be fixed. Thanks. https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v.../rP1012907.jpg https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v.../rP1012916.jpg https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v.../rCIMG8994.jpg https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v.../rCIMG8988.jpg Returned the Gold one. Cost $30 more. (Must be the stupid paint..) https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v.../rCIMG8986.jpg https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v.../rCIMG8992.jpg https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v.../rCIMG8996.jpg https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v.../rCIMG8995.jpg |
you're best off buying new front calipers. the bleeders snapped off cuz the last person to bleed the brakes over tightened them. they only need like 9lbs/ft.
i'd recommend some speed bleeders also (while you're at it). Russell makes them, so they can be found at most parts stores, for like $11 a pair. I bled my brakes by myself in like 5 minutes. its amazing. the key to bleeders is use an 8mm wrench (cuz theyre small) and dont put muscle into it! just tighten till they re snug, and make sure you cant loosen them by hand (no wrench) front - M8 x 1.0 x 35.15 (SB8100) rear - M7 x 1.0 x 35.15 (SB7100) |
Whoa, whats the torch for?
I've never had bleed screws break off before. Easpeically both. Lefty loosy, righty tighty! The spongy feeling would be air bubbles in the line. I'd either drill out the broken bleeder screws CAREFULLY, or replace the front calipers completely. Might be a good time to invest money into an upgraded front brake kit. BTW, what camera are you using for your pictures? |
personally i would remove the calipers and get some easy outs and new bleeders
u just have to drill out the center, has to be as close to center as possible, this will reduce the possiblility of breaking something.. soak them for a while with PB or WD or whatever too also what i do everytime i do an oil change is take some wd and spray all over, of course you wanna make sure you don't spray the rotors or pads cause its flamable.. helps prevent rust and siezed bolts |
ya and take it easy on the ez out bolts, they are hardened steel so they wont be drilled out as easy!!
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this happened to me almost exactly as your are describing it - and the bleeders were definitely not overtightened by me when i did the last brake job
the stock bleeders are actually quite garbage in terms of what comes on the car and what aftermarket materials are available. my advice, take it or leave it, you should bring the calipers to a machine shop and have them get it out. yeah yeah i know the deal ez outs drill whatever whatever bring it to a shop and have them get it out and it will be a better solution.... |
btw
did you por 15 your undercarriage? |
Originally Posted by Jaiyurai
(Post 8639633)
Whoa, whats the torch for? I don't know... Marshmallows? I've never had bleed screws break off before. Easpeically both. Lucky you. I only broke passenger side. didn't bother braking the other side :) Lefty loosy, righty tighty! Rrrrrrrrright ! ;) The spongy feeling would be air bubbles in the line. That's probably it. Hence the seized bleeder screws....anything else? I've already replaced a few parts as mentioned . . . I'd either drill out the broken bleeder screws CAREFULLY, or replace the front calipers completely. Might be a good time to invest money into an upgraded front brake kit. I think I'll replace the calipers.. ( good job bleeders ! ) BTW, what camera are you using for your pictures? A Casio Exilim I'll update this when I'm done. Thanks http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...LiNXBanner.gif https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...X/FDBanner.gif https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...annerSmall.jpg |
Originally Posted by uptotibet
(Post 8640826)
btw
did you por 15 your undercarriage? Yeh. it's addicting. i think it's the chemicals. makes you want to POR-15 everything. The result is like glasscovered lamination; pretty hard, but weak on UV. I have a gallon of POR-15 Silver. It has metal filler. |
Anyway . . . .
Anyway... "lefty loosy, righty tighty" lol :D Everything was replaced including the hard lines by the calipers. For the first time close to a decade of ownership, the brake system fluid has been fully vacuumed out !!! wow. and topped off with fresh fluids. The hard line by the calipers also crapped out while bleeding. Had to fab the new lines in the shop. cool little gadgets. Reusing old pads and rotors. All new dimpled/slotted zinc plated rotors and ebc pads soon. Right now with the used parts, the brakes are very solid and very strong. Like new car. :) https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v.../rCIMG9033.jpg https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v.../rCIMG9038.jpg https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v.../rCIMG9042.jpg https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v.../rCIMG9044.jpg https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v.../rCIMG9049.jpg |
1. Add brake fluid to the Motive Power Brake Bleeder tank.
2. Firmly connect the supplied adapter to brake master cylinder and pump the Motive Power Brake Bleeder to pressurize. 3. Starting with the furthest away brake bleeder valve (typically on the rear of the vehicle), open brake bleeder valve and purge the air and old brake fluid from your brake system. |
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