SAFC-II and preset maps question
 

So I bought a SAFC-II.

I have an S4 Base 88 with a S4 TII swap.
-RB downpipe and precilencer (Still have stock S4 mufflers)
-720 CC secondaries
-FCD
-Running 6-8 PSI

So I wanted to know, or confirm some things.

I need to connect my 12 volt power through ignition, ground and RPM but bypass the afm right into the SAFC right? Also, does it have preset maps? Can I download maps and put them in there? How do you tune to run lean while cruising but rich at WOT? What ratio do you guys recommend at WOT? 11.7:1? And at cruising speed? 14.0:1? I am going on a dyno next week so all the help will be apreciated.

No there are no preset maps. Leave the Lo and Hi maps zeroed across the board.

YOu need a wideband or a narrow band to know if your running lean or rich. The SAFC does not know where your AFR is at or how much fuel is being injected. Check in the SAFC Engine Managment section of this forum. You will find a thread where I am trying to upload the wiring manual but others have supplied links to other manuals to help you out.

TPS - Arrow Upper Right
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In 05 Out 05

RotaMan99 is very good with the SAFC. All shall heed his advice.

There is no preset maps, the SAFC is very easy to use. It's also very easy to ruin your car. Please do not set your Hi map without being on a dyno. You can do your low yourself (The cruising). The car has no way of knowing the AFR so you have to calculate that yourself (With a gauge of some sort).

To set the low map:

With the car at 1000 rpm (held by your foot). Add 5% to the fuel. This is a lot easier with a buddy. Have him listen to your exhaust. Add 5% until the car starts to sputter. Than remove fuel until the car starts to sputter (in the negatives). Find the spot in between those two that sounds like it runs the best (probably in the negatives, we run very rich.)

Do this up until 3000-4000 where you should be shifting anyways, the rest of the rpm range shouldn't matter.

Search this section, it seems like we are slowly reviving it.

Edit: For S5 readers, you are flap 06/06. Not 5/5.

You have to be carefull at low rpms when adding or removing fuel, mainly because detonation can happen more easily at low rpms then at high rpms. So knowing this, try not to remove or add to much fuel. I can't say I have had issues with detonation but its still good to be safe.

On my N/A, for LO throttle I have about -2 up to about 2400rpm. Then I have about +3 at 2800 and +10 at 3800 and +3 at about 4200. I have done -4 up to 2800 but I start to loose power at certain throttle points in which I have to press the throttle more which will only inject more fuel so my MPG gets lower.

I do have my high throttle set up to about 7800RPM without a wbo2. I actually had to add fuel from 2800 - 7800. 5000 is around +5 and 7800 is about +7 right now. Engine pulls great up to that point. Timing slightly advanced too.

The reason I have it so rich at 3800 is because of that "3800 RPM hesitation". My engine will go lean at that point. Some may go rich. Going leaner from 0 correction at 3800 just makes it worse, +10 smooths it out a a fair amount and is not as bad. Grounding should still fix this though.

I wouldn't reccomend using ANY of my numbers but I though I would share just to give an idea.