Whats wrong with my setup? bws366
 

hey guys.
So here is whats going on.
93 fd3s
streetported
bws366 .91 a/r
1000cc/1600cc
dual fuel pumps
front mount
fresh rebiuld 1000 miles ago.
c16
afr's in the 12.2
25lbs of boost.
415hp.
why?
need help figureing out what im missing in the equation

Dyno type?

You should check compression and maybe proper function of ignition system, verify timing etc.

Def Dyno type. Dyno operator could've input the vehicle wrong. Also the tuner could've been very lax on the timing and overall tune itself.

Is it ok to have AFRs that lean under full boost? 12.2 seems like it would be kinda dangerous to me.

C16 can handle it, not like pump gas which is very unforgiving. i'd say it could be either the dyno or overly conservative timing maps.

and what is the core dimensions of the front mount? intake efficiency will also lower numbers along with low compression.

compression is good. on a dynojet. stok intake and a greddy 3 row front mount.
I will have the compresion checked again.

Ask him for the smoothing you were set on. Ask to be set at 3...

BTW, are you still using Goopy apex seals or you switched? :)

what is the smoothing ? also no im using RA super seals.

Ah, cool. I didn't know that. I've only ever had my car really run with WM50, and that was to mid 11 afr's.

Learn something new every day :bigthumb:

Damn... that is the same setup i have my car now. Not done yet.

For the question, you probably have a low comp engine, also check maybebov is leaking

you are looking for 100 hp!

something major is amiss. since it is such a large amount i would be looking for a flow barrier. you can have 25 psi but not the FLOW needed to make the numbers. it could be in the intake or exhaust.

hc

What engine management are you using? Coils? Any cdi?

Post the dyno graph

pfc,
4 inch exaughst
i have to look at this intake. maybe the flaps are not opening enough.
ill check it out tonight.

did you get any exhaust temperature readings ????? also what spark plugs are you running ?

can be exhaust issue. if he is running an fd intake is fine. but there is something missing big time

just spoke with my tuner for a few hours and we have come down to these few items.
Since i have bought the car i have done the following.
Now remember my goal for this whole thing was 500-525 whp with c16.
now, i have changed everything (for better and new items) which are,
fresh rebuild,
hks manifold.
upgraded pumps
new injectors
new exaughst
porting is fine
c16
compression is good
the only things left in reality is the turbo( which shows no signs of smoke and spools great no shaft play)
and ignition.
Me and my tuner believe that we have a problem in the ignition. I have a hks twin power. I need to check if all 4 plugs have spark and if they have good spark.
What do you guys think.
It could be that we tuned it for the ignition its getting which would not be enough for 500, and gave it more fuel to make it run clean.
Any thoughts on this theory?
Thoughts on checking the twin power?

had someone local who went through this, he later discovered a shop rag that was clamped down in the intercooler piping... they noticed blue flakes coming out of the blow off valve!

rather doubtful here though, it would be tough to reach 25psi with such a restriction.

i can open up the piping and take a peek

What do you call "good compression"? Details

Post your maps in the apexi section.

Good compression is 130 and even on all 6 faces. Also even if the conpression was a littlw low it wont be 100 horses off. Sure it will.be off but. Idk maybe im wrong. Im really leaning towards ignition problem

compression usually affects low end response more than peak power. for example i had one car that pulled a whopping 85psi of compression from another shop that came in for work and a tune. it made 268whp but had it been where it should have been it was about a 290whp setup. so the compression dropped off about 10% peak power with rather horrible compression numbers.

once the turbo spools and the engine is spinning 5k+ RPMs, compression really doesn't mean a whole lot unless you have a stuck seal or numbers all over the board.

Arthur,
Although I’ve never seen a twin power go bad, and I personally ran one for quite a few years. Your plug color was backwards that day on the dyno. You should post pic’s so everyone can confirm.
The leading plugs were sootier, as if the car was running fat, which was not the case, the trailing were crispy clean, as I would have expected to see the leadings. The EIX plugs are good plugs and many have had success with them, we didn’t check gap after they were puled. We installed brand new set of 9’s all around on the dyno. The car was also breaking up a bit on its first passes, which was strange b/c the street tune was spot on, all that initially changed was your fuel
I can’t speak for Wilmer’s timing maps in your situation, but my personal experience with his tuning is its tailored correctly to your application.

My personal plan of attack would be to check the coils, Measuring the Ohms with a multimeeter will give you some easy reference to factory tolerances. Second check spark with a grounded plug outside the motor, check L1, then L2, then T1, then T2, spark should be identical across the rotors. Then remove the Twin power, It’s a simple weather pack jumper, and repeat above test, did any of the spark size/color change?

Also I personally feel your car was 2 low for craig's fan to really offer your FMIC alot of cooling, however, I dont believe it was enough to affect you 100hp

if the twin power only ties into leadings then that is a good possibility if it isn't powering up the leading coils.

i have also noted on the dyno a car running trailing only plugs lose about 20% peak power even though the tune was fine. swapped leading coil pack and it jumped from 250whp to 300whp just by adding leading ignition back into the equation.

something wrong with the ignition is possible. The stock ignition not handling what you have is not it. stock ignition will handle over 500 hp